Too much timing in distributor.

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cuda67

cuda67

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What do I need to buy to be able to limit total timing in a MP electronic dist.? Right now the car runs pretty good but I can't less than 45* total timing and it is all in at 2500 rpm. What is the kit I need to correct this? I am a novice and don't know what the kit is called. Is it springs weights???

Thanks for all advice.
 
You might be able to adjust it out with the vacuum can. It has an allen screw inside the vacuum hose nipple. I said nipple.....heh heh heh huh huh huh
 
Unhook the vacuum advance and re-check the timing to see what it is? If it's still 45 total you need to limit how far the centrifugal advance weights travel. Some MP distributors are adjustable while others aren't. If it's not adjustable the only way to limit it is to weld up the slots. BTW: if the timing is in by 2500 the springs sound like their right on.
 
StrokerScamp said:
You might be able to adjust it out with the vacuum can. It has an allen screw inside the vacuum hose nipple. I said nipple.....heh heh heh huh huh huh
Click to expand...

Tried that. It didn't work. Thanks

fishy68 said:
Unhook the vacuum advance and re-check the timing to see what it is? If it's still 45 total you need to limit how far the centrifugal advance weights travel. Some MP distributors are adjustable while others aren't. If it's not adjustable the only way to limit it is to weld up the slots. BTW: if the timing is in by 2500 the springs sound like their right on.
Click to expand...

With the vacuum advance connected the dial timing light couldn't show the degrees, off the chart. I got the 45* with the vacuum plugged and all in at 2500. For now I have the vacuum plugged but I would like to get total time down some. How can I tell if my dist. is adjustable? Thanks

demon seed said:
What's your initial (idle) with vacuum disconnected and plugged.
Click to expand...


The initial timing is 14 degrees with the vacuum disconnected and plugged.

Just for your consideration the engine is a Mopar crate engine, 5.9L, 390 hp. Nothing has been added, it is as assembled by MP. It has the MP M1 single plane intake and a Holley Street Avenger 770. It is the MP electronic distributor.
 
cuda67 said:
How can I tell if my dist. is adjustable? Thanks
Click to expand...

You'll have to pull the rotor off, take the vacuum advance off and the pickup plate out. Under that is the centrifugal advance mechanism. If it's adjustable it'll have 2 small allen head screws and when they are loosened you can slide the plate to limit the amount of advance. It's the same mechanism that a Mallory dist. uses so you can go by their adjustment description in this article.

http://prestoliteperformance.com/Po...structions_comp_s-s_distributor_32_series.pdf

You'll see it says there is a key set that when used gives a precise amount of advance. In other words use a key marked 20 and you'll have 20 degrees of centrifugal advance.

As I mentioned earlier if your dist. doesn't have an adjustable mechanism you'll have to weld up the slots to limit it. It's a little tedious cause you have to be careful not to get it all slopped up with weld. To bad your not close to me as I've done numerous ones. Only takes me about 30-40 minutes to set one up and phase the rotor. If your interested I have a good article from a magazine that spells out how to modify it if you have a non-adjustable dist. It's too big to post here but if you want it PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.
 
Should have mentioned that with that engine's cam you need to get the initial up to about 18 and limit the total to approx. 34 (centrifugal advance) and it'll be a lot more responsive. The vacuum advance can go up to 45 under light throttle and shouldn't be a problem. Just gotta make sure it's hooked up to the ported vacuum port on the carb.
 
posting for future reference, cause ill need this info......btw, how do i subscribe to a thread?
 
When you pull the reluctor and plate on the MP dist. you should see something like this. The two torx/button head screws are what allow you to adjust the total timing. The springs only control at what RPM the mechanical advance starts and the rate of advance until it maxes.

Here's an article worth reading: http://www.jefframin.org/library/distributorRecurving.doc
 

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fishy68 said:
You'll have to pull the rotor off, take the vacuum advance off and the pickup plate out. Under that is the centrifugal advance mechanism. If it's adjustable it'll have 2 small allen head screws and when they are loosened you can slide the plate to limit the amount of advance. It's the same mechanism that a Mallory dist. uses so you can go by their adjustment description in this article.

http://prestoliteperformance.com/Po...structions_comp_s-s_distributor_32_series.pdf

You'll see it says there is a key set that when used gives a precise amount of advance. In other words use a key marked 20 and you'll have 20 degrees of centrifugal advance.

As I mentioned earlier if your dist. doesn't have an adjustable mechanism you'll have to weld up the slots to limit it. It's a little tedious cause you have to be careful not to get it all slopped up with weld. To bad your not close to me as I've done numerous ones. Only takes me about 30-40 minutes to set one up and phase the rotor. If your interested I have a good article from a magazine that spells out how to modify it if you have a non-adjustable dist. It's too big to post here but if you want it PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.
Click to expand...

70Duster440 said:
When you pull the reluctor and plate on the MP dist. you should see something like this. The two allen head screws are what allow you to adjust the total timing. The springs only control at what RPM the mechanical advance starts and the rate of advance until it maxes.

Here's an article worth reading: http://www.jefframin.org/library/distributorRecurving.doc
Click to expand...

Thanks to all who have given me great info. I will print these out and a buddy of mine is gonna give me a hand. I have to fix another exhaust leak that is now on the driver's side. I couldn't hear it when the passenger side was leaking. Someone on this site advised me to grind down the truck mounts on this Magnum so I wouldn't have issues with headers, which I don't have. but the truck mounts are also an issue with the stock manifolds. Should have asked more questions. It is going to be a P.I.T.A. to get to the driver's side.


thanks to all. I will keep you informed on my progress or lack thereof.
 
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