Torque Boxes and Subframe Connectors

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$3.40 at Home Depot and 2 .60 cent blank plates to tie them to the crossmember.
 

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"I REALLY hope that is a joke."

No, the 4" plates are .60 cents, the 4-11/16 ones are twice that.
 
Roger Ram Rod said:
"I REALLY hope that is a joke."

No, the 4" plates are .60 cents, the 4-11/16 ones are twice that.
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#-o

For all that conduit is going to do, you could have just duct taped the subframes together.
 
OK, you're onto me. I am using the US car tool kit and Hotchkis suspension. I am moving the battery to the trunk, and didn't want to deal with passing through the firewall. I snaked the conduit through the frame rails and come out next to the starter, just behind the brake distribution block. I couldn't bend the conduit and install it up over the rear axle, so I 45ed it and come up under the rear seat. I welded reinforcement plates everywhere the conduit passes in, out, or through any frame points.
Oh and the welds are just tacked in for now, while I'm working on something else, I'm not that good but I'm not THAT bad either.
Actually, you'd be really surprised how different the car sounded when you knock on the floorpans, with just those silly little pipes installed. No, they don't touch the floor pan anywhere.
You know, the gorilla tape actually works pretty well.
 
I installed torque boxes and weld it frame connectors in my 70 duster.The frame connectors actually are welded to the floor boards.I think i got them from us car tool.Try resto rick also
 
It was my understanding that the torque boxes were installed along with a set of stiffened rails that ran inside the body moldings along the side of the car.

If you add the boxes without the extra stiffeners are you really adding anything other than extra weight ?

I think the sub-frame connectors are enough for most street applications. But that is just my opinion. :)
 
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