Torque converter crack

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transman, I too have a similar issue! This rebuilt transmission 904 sprung a leak about 30 miles into it's rebuild! This is what I found a boogerd up inside of the converter and a chewed up seal! And a little molten metal!Made the mistake of buying a used aftermarket converter, but after looking at this post im suspect of the bushing! Any thoughts people??
 
transman, I too have a similar issue! This rebuilt transmission 904 sprung a leak about 30 miles into it's rebuild! This is what I found a boogerd up inside of the converter and a chewed up seal! And a little molten metal!Made the mistake of buying a used aftermarket converter, but after looking at this post im suspect of the bushing! Any thoughts people??

I am a firm believer in NOT buying a used converter, high stall or stock, unless you know the person you're buying it from. A converter is a sealed unit, and unless you've got x-ray vision, you have no way of knowing it's internal condition. I've seen my share of "like new" used converters. Yes, it has a hub that looks pretty good, and yes, the paint is nice and shiny( we used to call them rattle can rebuilds). Cut it open, and surprise. I think at one time, someone posted photos on this board, a cut open high stall that showed exactly what I'm talking about.

Here recently, on a local board, was an 8" high stall being advertised as "like new" and an asking price of only $600.00 as I recall. It was made by the company I retired from, so I contacted the seller and asked what the serial number was of the converter, which on his part was a mistake. I knew by the number it was an oldy. The company always had a build sheet on any high stall they built. After I gave them the serial number they told me the date of build, what it was built for, the name of the original purchaser, and how many times it had been in for modifications and repairs, etc. The unit had been built in 1986 and repaired/modified more than once. I posted this information on the board. Needless to say the seller wasn't happy about my posting, but I sure as hell got a lot of big thanks from potential buyers. The ad got pulled.
Used converters are good, IMHO, for only two things, a door stop or a core to be rebuilt.
Just my two-bits worth.
 
TF Patty talked me out of my early race Hemi converter and into a "professionally" rebuilt HS "race" converter. I believe he said it was from a Corvair, and the rebuild included Torrington needle thrust bearings, etc. I believe it only lasted about 20 miles, long enough for me to drive it around the block a few times, and up on a trailer to tow to the races in Spokane, about 300 miles away. I backed it off the trailer and that was it, it would barely move. The converter was toast. The only GM part on the car had failed, hahaha.
 
TF Patty talked me out of my early race Hemi converter and into a "professionally" rebuilt HS "race" converter. I believe he said it was from a Corvair, and the rebuild included Torrington needle thrust bearings, etc. I believe it only lasted about 20 miles, long enough for me to drive it around the block a few times, and up on a trailer to tow to the races in Spokane, about 300 miles away. I backed it off the trailer and that was it, it would barely move. The converter was toast. The only GM part on the car had failed, hahaha.

You'd be surprised on where things come from to build high stalls. There are components that are not cost effective to be manufactured for a limited market, so these parts can come from a wide source. We once had a well known, high quality 8" race converter come in for cut open and inspection. There was nothing wrong inside, but because the racer was very active down at SIR in Seattle, he said to replace the Torrington bearings and clean it up. The front cover (well furnace brazed and tig welded at both the vane edges top and bottom by the builder) was from a Toyota converter. Your converter I don't think came from a Corvair, as they were air cooled and would have cooling vanes on the outside.
 
Trans man, here is what I found after pulling the pump! The inner shaft is scored from the bearing letting loose! My question is is useable or anchor material??

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I ended up dropping the transmission and pulling it completely apart.

Just to add to this thread. I posted another thread showing the inspection which I’ll link to

The planets are chewed up. The sun gear is a little bit chewed up.

The forward clutch packs are ground down but not to the steel

Just a few of the steels have maybe 1 small hot spot on them

This transmission showed no signs of having any problems when I was driving the car. I only took it out because of pulling the engine due to my timing chain being stretched and the gear they chipped off. So I pulled the motor and inspected it. Then found all this other stuff.

So...basically .....
When you have a cracked converter. Your transmission might not be far behind

I know I’m going to replace
The frictions
Steels
Sprag bearings and springs.
Thrust washer kit
Seals and gaskets

And probably the planets and sun gear.

Another member said I should get a good used core. Around where I live. I’m guessing a core will be as bad as what I’m dealing with now.

I found this to be strange. This transmission has 4 clutches in each drum. I thought it was 4 and 3

The bands didn't seem all that bad.

I can’t tell if someone has been inside this thing before. I haven’t seen enough worn parts to tell in other transmissions.

The bands are not flex bands
I’ve gotten better about the terminology of what parts are what.

It’s almost like I need to replace everything. That’s still cheaper than having it done. They wanted $800 for just refreshing it and not even taking it out of the car.

So now I’m looking for daily driver upgrades.
I’ve seen mention of a500 frictions being superior.
I’ve seen a little bit on valve body modifications....don’t quite understand those yet.

So that’s where I’m at with this. I have this torn down transmission and a lot of research to do.
 
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