Torsion bar adjuster bolt length difference

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Bob Jasinski

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Getting ready to install my new PST 1.03 torsions bars in my '65 FS. The new bolt package that came with the bars contains adjuster bolts longer than the factory bolts. Original bolts are 3-5/8" long, new bolts are 4". Nothing wrong with originals. Which bolts are better to use? How about adjuster nuts, new or originals?

Edit: I'd also like to know what the "plug" is that installs ahead of the round clip on the rear t-bar mount. Can't find anything like that from when it was taken apart. Where can I get a pair?

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In my experience with both torsion bar adjusters/bolts and UCA bolts/nuts:

I've had original ones break.
QA1 are garbage.
Proforged are my go to.
 
Thanks for all of the above replies. I was leaning toward using the originals, I actually have two sets. I've not installed torsion bars before and want to get it right the first time. Regarding my second question on the "plug" ahead of the retaining clip, that came from the illustration of same in the parts book. I'm thinking at some point that was used, but if so, the T-bar info on the end of the bar would not be visible once installed. I also don't recall anything being there when it was disassembled, so I'll only install the clip and plenty of grease.
 
I would suggest using the torsion bar boots. 65
Of course I'll be using the boots. I see now that the plug is not used on Valiant/Dart, See below (Plymouth , Dodge, Chrysler) PLUG 2-14-19. For that matter the clamp 2-14-14 isn't used either. My fault for not studying it closer.

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Of course I'll be using the boots. I see now that the plug is not used on Valiant/Dart, See below (Plymouth , Dodge, Chrysler) PLUG 2-14-19. For that matter the clamp 2-14-14 isn't used either. My fault for not studying it closer.

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Yeah, I misunderstood your question (dangers of internet). I've never seen a plug on the back end of the torsion bar. Sounds like you're good to go!
 
Well, I was successful at my first attempt in installing torsion bars. Being a newbie at this, I thought I'd share of few things I learned yesterday. I started with the LCAs all the way down, no upper bump stop in place, and the adjuster bolts installed, but backed out flush with the top of the torsion bar nut. Greased the front LCA hex sockets and rear bar hex. Inserted the bar through the rear support and proceeded to install the boot seal. I was having a very hard time with it going over the hex, even with Dawn applied to the rubber. Then I remembered a comment in Tom Condrons's book about using a modified small plastic funnel as an installation tool, I tried it and and it worked perfectly (see picture).

Once the seal was in place over the hex on the bar, I tried to install the bar into the LCA hex, but it wouldn't fit because the bar hex angle didn't match the LCA hex. This kind of surprised me, I thought they would line up, but soon realized I needed to turn the adjuster bolt clockwise to raise the front female T-bar hex to match the angle of the bar (male) hex so it would fit. Once I raised it to just the right point, the bar started to slide into place and I finished tapping it in place from the back of the bar with a small wood block and large brass hammer, and installed the retaining clips in the rear of the bars. Packed the front of the rear supports with grease and slid the seals into place. Set the car down, and jounced the front end. The bars were working well but the front end was low so I threaded the adjusters up to raise it a bit. I'm glad I reused the original adjuster bolts as the additional length of the new bolts wasn't needed, and they would have stuck out farther.

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Great idea with the funnel. I've also plopped the seals in some hot water to soften them up. Works good.
 
Good deal, those new larger diameter t-bars won't need those long bolts. Plenty of adjustment with the stock bolts. 65
 
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