Torsion bar cross mmber ; repair or replace

[uglydukwling]

The cross member on my '68 Dart is rusted out around the torsion bar anchor, about half-way around the anchor on the back of the cross-member, a little more on the front. Is it possible to replace the cross member without damaging the floor? All the you-tube videos show the cross-member being replaced in a car with no floor, but I'd like to save the floor in this car. The floor appears to be in perfect condition. Even the cross-member looks good, except where it's actually rusted through. When I scraped off the Ziebart, I found shiny metal within an inch of the damage. Of course, it's possoible that I'll find more damage as I dig deeper.

I assume the cross member is spot welded to the floor, and some of the welds are probably hard to access. If I can't replace the cross member without destroying the floor, the only alternative is to try to reinforce it in place. I know I can buy the whole cross member, but does anyone sell just the part I need for a repair in the immediate area of the damage? If I can't buy the pieces ready-made, it doesn't look too hard to make them, but they will be separate flat pieces rather then bent to shape. Are there any other complications I should be aware of?

Is there anyyone from Ontario on here? I know the inspection rules have recently been changed, but I haven't been able to find a copy of the new version. I've heard rumors that frame repairs are no longer allowed. If that's true, the patch will have to look like a factory reinforcement rather than a repair.

 

[RedFish]

Years ago there were caps/patches/scabs whatever you want to call them, available for this online. I don't know them about today. Good luck

 

[Super-Cuda]

The cross member on my '68 Dart is rusted out around the torsion bar anchor, about half-way around the anchor on the back of the cross-member, a little more on the front. Is it possible to replace the cross member without damaging the floor? All the you-tube videos show the cross-member being replaced in a car with no floor, but I'd like to save the floor in this car. The floor appears to be in perfect condition. Even the cross-member looks good, except where it's actually rusted through. When I scraped off the Ziebart, I found shiny metal within an inch of the damage. Of course, it's possoible that I'll find more damage as I dig deeper.

I assume the cross member is spot welded to the floor, and some of the welds are probably hard to access. If I can't replace the cross member without destroying the floor, the only alternative is to try to reinforce it in place. I know I can buy the whole cross member, but does anyone sell just the part I need for a repair in the immediate area of the damage? If I can't buy the pieces ready-made, it doesn't look too hard to make them, but they will be separate flat pieces rather then bent to shape. Are there any other complications I should be aware of?

Is there anyyone from Ontario on here? I know the inspection rules have recently been changed, but I haven't been able to find a copy of the new version. I've heard rumors that frame repairs are no longer allowed. If that's true, the patch will have to look like a factory reinforcement rather than a repair.

Just my opinion..

This is a critical component of the suspension , replace the whole thing as having it fail because of poor repairs is not an option.

1. Remove the seats and carpet.

2. Clean off all the paint around the area of the torsion bar crossmember.

3. Identify the spot welds.

4. Use this tool to drill out spot welds. Available at Princess Auto. Get two. About 20 bucks a set right now.

5. Drill out the spot welds and then use a metal cold chisel like this to remove the hard to reach spotwelds.

6. mount new crossmember and reweld floor to it using the original spot weld holes in the floor. Grind down welds flush, prime and refinish.

This is a lot easier to do than you think. It takes a bit of time but if I can do it , anyone can. LOL !


Cheers!

 

[matthon]

I agree this is critical.
Pictures will definitely help others provide feedback.
One side or both?

Don't have to destroy the floor, can remove cross member in sections, just make sure you got all the spot welds drilled out before attempting to force it apart.

Having done this without the floor, as it was rusted away, it was still challenging separating it from the front rails, the rockers, and what remained of the floor.

Take many measurements, make sure the torsion bars are still oriented correctly, that the sockets in the cross member aren't bent or pointed in the wrong direction.
Don't recall if they are 'level' with the rockers, or car, etc.

Same applies if welding in a new one.
Don't want to mess this up and make it difficult if not impossible to put the bars back.

I managed to replace mine, and much more, and I never held a welder before.

 

[ch1ll]

Take measurements AND PICTURES. I find that a thinner tool like a painters tool works better than a cold chisel. Drilling out the spot welds goes better if you center punch the center if the spot like center punching a hole to drill. Since you are replacing a part that is to be eventually tossed, drill weld clean through both parts.

 

[Demonx2]

These are hard to beat for getting spot welds loose after you drill or use a mini belt sander to get them. If I was counting, I think I'm well over 250 welds now working on my Charger and this chisel works very well. Steck brand makes numerous shapes for convenience.