If you're just looking for a weekend cruiser and not terribly focused on road handling you don't need to go crazy with the suspension modification. For example, if you're sticking with 15" rims and BFG T/A's or similar then there's no need to go all in with the torsion bars, since you won't have the grip.
I'd say the PST 1.03" bars would be a good choice. I ran Just Suspension 1" bars on my Duster and found the ride to be pretty soft. Better than stock, but pretty soft. And that was with a 318 and no A/C to add weight. With the 1.03" bars the Bilstein's would be fine, the Fox's are awesome for large torsion bars but I would say below a 1.06" bar you don't have to spend the coin on the Fox's, the Bilsteins are just fine. Remember, the reason the factory torsion bars were so soft was because of the crappy bias ply tires that were available and shock technology that was far behind what is possible today. Good shocks make all the difference, and even the hockey puck BFG T/A's are better than the stock bias ply's were.
The 7103 Moog bushings will let you dial in more positive caster, which will help the road manners quite a bit. With power steering you can dial in as much positive caster as you can get, there's really no downside in the range that's available with the offset bushings. The alignment is important, you'll want something in the range of -.25 to -.5 degree's of camber, +3 to +5 degrees caster ( as much as you can get really, but you probably won't get more than +5 even with the offset bushings), and about 1/16" of toe in. Remember, factory alignment specs were for bias ply's, not radials, and are 180* from what you want with radials.
Sway bars will help too. Again, if you're planning 15" rims and BFG T/A's or similar you can run stock sized sway bars if you already have them or can find them cheap. The limiting factor will end up being your tires, but with that set up the car should still ride pretty nice and will still handle MUCH better than stock. And that will be a good thing with a 440 up front!
