Torsion Bar re-enforcement at Socket

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MOPEkidD-3 said:
How should the factory welds look to be "good", anyone have a pic? I took a close look at mine and there's a solid consistent bead going all the way around where the socket sticks out the back, I think the same in front but not sure.
Click to expand...
Wasn't the weld so much as the entire metal around it as well. The stock bars twist quite a bit when you hit a bump. The firm bars twist barely at all so all the force go's right to the frame. I think the .9 bars ride better and I'm going back to them. The 1.08 is just too bumpy for me.
 
Thanks for the thread. My 45 year old mount just let go yesterday, and I'll probably have to do something like this to get back on the road.
 
good thread. i swapped a good used crossmember into my cuda resto, the welds all looked good. the crossmember was from a rust free west texas car, but if your telling us that the metal ripped, then i guess its time for me to make some 1/8" plate steel reinforcing plates similar to what you did and install them. very good job you did i might add. im under there making and installing subframe connectors whenever i can get the time to get in the shop. family time comes first, then shop time so it is very slow going right now.

am thinking of using the 1.03 PST bars. so this will be a worthwhile mod to the frame. did you put the plates on both sides of each of the torsion bar mounts? or just one side, then weld up the torn crossmember? the reason being, is that if i weld up 1/8" reinforcing plates on just one side of each mount that should be sufficient to transfer the load since they arent torn to begin with.

thanks for the information
matt
 
Thanks for bringing this back up actually, I have been driving my Duster for a year now with the new engine and front end stuff, part of which is the Just Suspension 1" bars. I love the ride, it's much flatter in the corners at speed but still floats over bumps nicely. I'll try to make a plate for it soon just to weld on the front of the T-bar mount.
 
In the Chrysler service manual I have for my 67 Barracuda, it says: DO NOT APPLY HEAT TO THE ANCHORS!

Just saying...

cudamike13
 
I went with the auto rust "cap" that goes over (what is left of) the existing frame piece. Went in pretty easy, it is a bit tight to weld the rear socket into the new piece, as it is wider than the old one, giving less margin to weld on. As far as welding goes, the socket was originally welded to the original frame, so there should not be an issue there. Auto rust recommends that you tack it in with the bar in place to set the alignment correctly, then remove the bar and weld the nasal expectorant out of it. Only remaining issue I have is with a bit of "creaking" noise that I get on rough roads, so I'll need to figure out where that is coming from (or wait for it to rust and stop doing it). Side benefit is that the cap seems to have helped a bit with the sag I had developed.Bill
 
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