Torsion Bar Selection

[DadGum_Teen]

I have 73 Duster, which now has a 400hp 360, 727, 8 3/4 that replaced the original 6 cylinder, 904, 7 1/4. It still has the original 6 cylinder torsion bars. It is a daily driver ran occasionally on the track, 13.70's. When two people are in the car, the front rides too low, too cushy, and we scrape the headers under braking or turning. I would like ideas of how you would handle this situation.

Ebay lists an American company selling new torsion bars for 315.00. Thoughts would be a 0.88, sized above factory V8, but below a big block. they offer a 0.94 that sacrifices some ride, but increases handling. In either case, it goes the opposite direction for weight transfer that may/may not help at the drag strip.

Throw this into the equation, that a set of original 340 bars are also available for under 200.00, if I wanted to save a few bucks. Are there concerns of losses attempting to use original torsion bars?

Last, has anyone heard or other options, such as coil over shocks that offer any advantage?

 

[71DartGuy]

What shape are your front shocks in? I'm running 340 bars in my 71 dart with KYB shocks and a 383 sitting on top of it and it handles every bit as good as it did when the slant was in there. Oh, I added a 1 1/8" sway bar too


Here's a link for you too...

http://justsuspension.com/vaf/product/list/?category=?&make=43&model=347&year=11239

 

[halibut]

Use the 340 Torsion Bars. Your ride will be stiffer, but very livable. I did it on my Swinger replacing the 318 base and it helped!

 

[Badawg]

I went with 890 bars and also added coronet front shocks because of the extra weight of the 440 I dropped into my 66. I also added a sway bar. As you can see in the pic the combo has the front end up really nice even with a 440/727 combo in a car that came with no bigger than a 273 from the factory.