Towing your Mopar

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DemonDave

DemonDave

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If you were planning on towing your beloved A-body using a tow dolly, would you tow it backwards with the rear wheels in the dolly and the front wheels on the road or is the preferred method to tow it facing forwards with the front wheels on the dolly and the rear wheels on the road (driveshaft removed)?
 
In 40 years I have never had to have an A body towed, I always drove 'em. That's the preferred method. Had a B body that twisted the driveshaft in two and it was towed with the rear wheels on the ground with the back half of the driveshaft removed. If you want to find out how to tow a car, ask a Chebbie guy, they have a lot more practice at it than we do. Just my $.02.
 
Well if you are going over 45mph for an extended time, pull the drive shaft, and lift the rear. It is safer thought to lift the front and pull the shaft so the car will track better.
 
grumpuscreature said:
In 40 years I have never had to have an A body towed, I always drove 'em. That's the preferred method. Had a B body that twisted the driveshaft in two and it was towed with the rear wheels on the ground with the back half of the driveshaft removed. If you want to find out how to tow a car, ask a Chebbie guy, they have a lot more practice at it than we do. Just my $.02.
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Boy, that's helpful.
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Sometimes, when you own more than one vehicle and need to transport both at the same time (say, you're moving across the country), towing one behind the other makes sense. Just because a car is being towed doesn't mean that it's a broken down POS.

djwhog: Thanks for your input.
 
one problem with pulling the drive shaft and towing is that you'll leak trans fluid without the drive shaft in there.
 
dusterdon said:
one problem with pulling the drive shaft and towing is that you'll leak trans fluid without the drive shaft in there.
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That is why I always try to have a spare trans yoke. I will slip it in and tie it to the tail shaft housing to keep it from leaking. I do that alot when I have to pull a trans. Alot cleaner. Just my .02
 
If going a long distance (cross-country as you suggest) I think I would put the rear on the dolly and drag it along on the front wheels. It will be more stable with the center of gravity lower, less parasitic drag / wear on the rear, no bother with the driveline, not to mention the car would be immediately available to drive if necessary in an emergency or breakdown of the tow vehicle. Just make sure to get the steering centered and secured (not just the ignition lock) with another safety device or method of some type holding the steering wheel. A club tied off in both directions would work, just for added measure.
 
DemonDave said:
Just because a car is being towed doesn't mean that it's a broken down POS.

djwhog: Thanks for your input.
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yeah it just means its a chevy or ford :lol: haha good luck with your choice, just had to add that :toothy7:
 
The problem with towing the car backwards with the front tires on the ground is the alignment on a car is set so the car will travel well forward not travel well backwards. The caster will fight you towing it backwards and will not be the safest. Try driving your car backards at speed and see what happens it wants to turn and not travel straight. If it was me I would remove the driveline and tow it forward.

Chuck
 
There's a big difference between towing it backwards and driving it backwards.
 
Ace said:
There's a big difference between towing it backwards and driving it backwards.
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The only difference would be that there would not be a driver in the car when it's towed. The front end still acts the same way regardless if someone is in the car or not. The caster will change some because the rear tires are raised some on the dolly but it will not be enough to compensate.


Chuck
 
You're not steering it with the front wheels when you're towing it. That's the difference I'm talking about. Have you ever towed a car like that? I've towed them both ways and saw no difference. Caster has no effect on the dynamics of the vehicle just rolling along.

And yes, trailer is best, that's what I normally use, but the OP wants advice on using a dolly.
 
I'm not talking about steering the car, I'm talking about trying to keep the car straight. If you drive your car backwards straight and let go of the wheel it will turn on it's own because traveling backwards it has negative caster. Positive caster is what keeps the car traveling straight on it's own. If you tow it backwards the car will try and turn which means that the steering lock or what ever means you use to hold the tires straight will have constant pressure on it. If this lock fails while traveling at 60 mph you will not be able to save it being it will turn instantly, violently.

I tryed to tow a '65 Coronet once backwards it made it about a mile and about 45 mph before it started whipping so I stopped and turned the car around and pulled the driveline. It towed like pulling a trailer, nice and straight.
 
I'll bet the only reason you had a problem was because the wheels weren't locked straight. '65 didn't have a column steering lock, did it? How did you lock the steering? If there's much if any play at all there, you'll see exactly what you are describing - not good, and definitely not safe, either.
 
Not all cars have steering column locks and if they do they are not to be used for towing anyway.

Heres one other item on the front end alignment that will work against you towing a car backwards, tow-out, driving the car forward it has tow-in, when it travels backward it has tow-out.

Ace, you like me, can and will do what we want but you shouldn't recommend something that has safety issues behind it, not only do you give it a higher probability of damaging something you give it something worse... the possibly hurting somebody.


Chuck
 
Absolutely! That's why also said you need a secondary way of locking the steering to do it that way - SAFELY.
 
I was in the Navy and towed my 69 Barracuda with a tow bar. I made several long distance trips without pulling the drive shaft (four speed car). Well, it caught up with me the last trip. I roasted the output shaft and first gear. I had to cut the output shaft in two to get the 2nd and 3rd gear off. After I rebuilt the tranny (expensive, try finding a good output shaft), it was obvious why you shouldn't tow the car with the drive shaft in place. Not enough lubrication as the output shaft spins with the gears basically remainining stationairy.
The good news is the car tows like a dream with a tow bar. You just have to get the thing rolling before you start turning or else the front tires will turn the opposite direction you are trying to turn.
Rod
 
I've done the tow bar thing quite a few times & it works well in most cases. I just want to add that if you're ever towing a car with no engine in it you might need to add some weight to the front end. Otherwise the steering doesn't always self center after a corner. You can end up trying to pull a car straight with it's front wheels turned completely to one side. Too much air in the tires can also aggravate the problem. Ask me how I know! If it's a Mopar, cranking down the torsion bar adjusters to lower the front end can help too.
 
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