Traction bars and spring clamps???

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Moparmal

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I read somewhere that using traction bars AND spring clams is a "no no"< because one works against the other -

Is this correct?

I can see how they might...but maybe it depends on how long the bars are?

Hope someone can fill me in?
 
Traction bars (aka slapper bars) on a mopar are lame, ugly and better left for the blue oval and bowtie babies. There are much better ways to get the traction and prevent spring wrap. If your looking for performance for drag racing, get or make an adjustable pinion snubber (thats what I did) or maybe build or buy a CalTrac set-up of some sorts, replace your leaf springs with either new EHD leafs or SS leafs, using spring clamps apropriatly would also be effective on a street car. But for the sake of your mopars honor, stay away from slappers. JMO.
 
Didnt know there was a such a "cred" issue with slapper bars....the car hobby sure is funny, aint it? :tongue9:


I would like to know if anyone has tried the combination though....just for informations sake.....

l
To be truthful, Id use glue if if gave me better traction ...but I havent yet experimented with a pinion snubber so Ill give that a go first (atm Im just running clamps around the front leaves)
 
traction bars are of little use on mopars due to the eliptical spring design

spring clamps and pinion snubbers are useful though
 
Sanguine said:
traction bars are of little use on mopars due to the eliptical spring design

spring clamps and pinion snubbers are useful though

Wow!!...can you explain further???
 
i think he is talking about the fact that the axle is more toward the front of the spring instead of in the middle and that the arch is not true, more arched at the front than the back,
right?

my first duster had slappers on it when I bought it and when I was swapping the rear, i noticed that the traction bar bumpers were always touching and were even with the front mount of the spring..
I took them off and never noticed the diff. it would still bleach THE tire :LOL:
 
i think he is talking about the fact that the axle is more toward the front of the spring instead of in the middle and that the arch is not true, more arched at the front than the back,
right?

You got it
 
I never even gave the fact that mopars had the elliptical set-up a thought , but yes there is that fact also. As far as clamping the springs the purpose is to make the spring more stiff to resist wrapping. I do not recall if your supposed to clamp the fronts, rears or both, I just recall reading about it in the Mopar Chasis Handbook (DAMNED fine piece of writing that ALL mopar owners should have) I didn't bother with clamping my springs because I drive mine daily in the summer and I dont want the harsher ride it causes.

The pinion snubber is designed into mopars to do what slapper bars do for chebbies, prevents the axle housing (and the springs that are attached to it out on the ends) from wanting to rotate or "wrap", it does so by physicly contacting a plate under the rear (you'll see it just above the snubber on the floor of the vehicle underneath. From the factory there is so much space between the snubber and the floor it isnt very effective at stopping spring wrap, it does it, just not as well as the adjustable will when set correctly. The idea behind the adjustable pinion snuber is to give you that instant hit by adjusting the snubber up so it is within an inch to half an inch from touching thus preventing any twist. (If I recall the automatics are supposed to be at 1" and manual trans are supposed to be 1/2" to 3/4") This setting is for race only though, I wouldn't go driving around town with it set tight like that because it will hammer the hell outta the floor and the little rubber snubber WILL mash out and be no more (ask me how I know :twisted: ) But I assure you, you WILL notice the difrence it makes, and you wont have gaudy ugly pieces of steel hanging low to drag and hit stuff and other wise be a general nuisance for little to no return in performance.
 
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