Tranny guy says

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Snake

Mopar Nut
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Still thinking on a TQ for my 727.One choice the guy says 2800 stall would be fine,500 bucks.a tranny shop here in my town says with my cam starting to work at 2000 he could get me a stock TC no less of a stall at 2000 and no more than 2400 stall.This guy know what he is talking about.His price is 150 bucks.Also my rear now is 7 1/4 high way gears no clue what ratio it is.How will a stall reack with this rear.I do plan on a 8 3/4 with 355 or 323 but this could be well in this summer.Need teaching please.
 
How about more info on the engine setup? I believe an ideal torque converter would be one that stalls 300-500 rpm below the engine's peak torque rpm.
 
Ok not much.360, 20 over pistons 915 340 j heades 202 intakes, 280-474 cam.headers.intake maybe the 340LB, 600 holley.Will be a street car.I plan on a 2 stage shift kit.Rear end like i said will be laite summer.Thanks for the reply.
 
How do I think the converter will react to the 7-1/4 rearend? I think it'll drop it's life expectancy from one week down to 3 days if your lucky. Possibly even the first time it hooks up you'll be shoveling parts off the street. The 7-1/4 rear is a 6 cylinder rearend that was barely adequate for a low perf. 318.

As far as the converter goes you get what you pay for and that 280/474 cam needs more stall than 2400 to really work right. More like 3k. I don't think you need a $500 converter but a stock converter with re-bent fins isn't a great converter, i.e. Not very efficient.
 
Snake,

Okay so i get what you're after. Your upgrading as you go. I did the same thing with my 70 360 Swinger. My 7 1/4 had 2.94s in it and lived just days behind my 360. Made hamburger out of it. The second 7 1/4 lived until I put an 8 3/4 in it, about 6 months. The difference was the way i drove it. Which is obvious. Okay enough on that, point being be nice to your rear or you'll lose your ***.

Torque converters are a mystery to some and to me as well. Until my local converter shop, Continental Torque Converters, gave me the cliff notes version on how TQs are rated. First off there is stall speed. Pretty obvious, you can get more stall from a converter by altering its fins. High end TQs have different fully welded fins based on your cars specs and desired stall. Cheap ones get bent, usually with a ball peen hammer (no joke!). Those are the ones to stay away from. Second is torque multiplication. There is a direct correlation between stall speed, converter diameter, and fin design. The cheaper converters have less torque multiplication and more slippage robbing you of precious hp.

For instance you need 2500 rpm of stall speed. Both converters in this comparison are quality converters built by the same shop. Converter "A" is a 11 inch unit. To get the desired stall speed it will have to sacrifice torque multiplication and the fins will have to lay almost flat to get it to slip at lower speeds. This converter would have say 1.2 times torque multiplication and will probably slip in high gear resulting in a few hundred more rpm at the end of the track. Converter "B" is a 10 inch. It will have to be on the tight side to get 2500 rpm stall. Its fins will be more straight up resulting in higher torque multiplication and less slippage. It would have a tq multiplication of say 2.2. You will see a few hundred RPM less at the end of the track. Obviously the 10 inch tq will be more expensive. Tqs are the difference between going to the track and have people say wow that car runs and you being disappointed at the time slips. The wrong tq converter can effectively make your car slow and disappointing. Dont skimp in this area and talk to a few good tq companies. You will be glad you did. I suffered through the wrong (cheap) converter for a few years chasing all kinds of different leads to try and find the key to getting my car to run. I changed the tq converter and it picked up 8(!) mph in the quarter.

I paid $400 for my 10 inch Converter from Continental and it stalls 3000 behind my 400hp 360 in a 3400# Dart with 4.56 gears. I recommend Continental since I have now been using them for years and their product is second to none and their customer service is excellent. Again this is just hte short version and anyone who knows more than I can correct or elaborate more if necessary. Good luck.
 
turbodart68 well exsplained.Ok will research more.You answered my real concern about the rear end.I kind of thought if I baby it untill I find an 8 3/4 it should get me to some showes.Thought what if I stayed with a stock TC for now how would my car run then.Thanks
 
hey snake,

heres my two cents...ive never ran a 7-1/4 but ive been reading you are building that 360 and there is no way the rear will last unless you plan on driving like grandma (which i hope you dont lol)...if i was you start lookin now for an 8-3/4...put it out there, and im sure you'll find a good deal if you look hard enough and are patient...spring is coming soon for us, so deals will start to creep out more now
As far as convertors go, ive never been much of a converter guru, but id say you' need atleast a 3k stall, and i would definatly go with a good converter...if you want to cruise it, your definatly gonna want a good converter with less slippage, and like the guys said you get what you pay for

good luck!
 
Thoes 2 cents are worth more thanks,I just emailed a guy who has a rear for me he wanys 800 for it.Keeping it in mind.
 
As far as the 7 1/4 goes avoid sticky tires and one wheeled burnouts. Mine died on a hard upshift. When you go to get a 8 3/4 remember if you cant find a reasonably priced a body 8 3/4, you can cut a c-body one down and respline the axles or buy new ones from Moser. If you need to have a housing cut down let me know. I have a jig to properly narrow a 8 3/4. I can set you up with a housing if you need one.
 
Thanks turbodart68 on the offer will keep it all in mind.Demon seed ya from drum to drum and its the 741 bummer ahh.Here in Canada the 8 3/4 is pricy,its nuts.This is the only one I have found that will bolt in.Everything else has big problims.i look on the net every day to find something.I may have to baby that 7 1/4 all summer.I am running out of money fast on this Dart.My wife says next time you find the Dart.she pick this one.
 
Thanks turbodart68 on the offer will keep it all in mind.Demon seed ya from drum to drum and its the 741 bummer ahh.Here in Canada the 8 3/4 is pricy,its nuts.This is the only one I have found that will bolt in.Everything else has big problims.i look on the net every day to find something.I may have to baby that 7 1/4 all summer.I am running out of money fast on this Dart.My wife says next time you find the Dart.she pick this one.

As long as the gears are in good shape that's a good price for drum to drum and there's nothing wrong with a 741 other than a loosey limited new gear ratio selection.
 
I say never skimp on the converter. You don't need a high end nitrous, trans brake converter but you do need a good one. As explained previously in this thread by turbodart a smaller converter is prefered to get the stall speed because it will be more efficient at speed than a loose larger converter.

One thing to keep in mind though is they do generate more heat. A good trans cooler and synthetic fluid really help.
 
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