need help!! I have 73 duster 340 727 trans 3000 stall tubo/action conver. with a shift kit and 5.0 levers. I do not know how this is suppose to feel like when driving but this is what happens. 1-2 shifts fine 2-3 shift at low speed feels hard and almost like it's dragging or kicking down. at the track 1-2 at 6k great 2-3 at 55k it bogs down when left in drive it shifts to soon and 2-3 shift same bogs. motor runs clean not running out of gas. what to do!
trans problems
- Thread starter pat d
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1970Duster
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My guess here (yea yea I know it's Mopar and this happened on my GM) in my tranny there was an actuator and after 100k I got tranny rebuilt. Worked great but soon after 3k miles later when it got to running temp the car shifted to early up and down and I play manual mode for a while. Then found out he actuator inside crapped out. Took it back and 100 bucks later the actuator was replaced and new filter and complete fueled change was done. Car has worked great ever since.
Guess what I'm trying to say is that maybe it's an actuator that took a dump (don't quote me on this one though, it's just my guess)
Guess what I'm trying to say is that maybe it's an actuator that took a dump (don't quote me on this one though, it's just my guess)
.............Do not use a 5.0 lever unless u r using tht T/A RMVB....should have used a 4.2 or a 3.8 lever.....my guess is u have a trans go -2..........did u put in the restricter plug 4 hi gear......what is the front band set at?....i assume 1 1/2 since u used the 5.0 lever....should b at least 2 turns....did u use both springs in the front servo?......u better believe u need both..............or do u have the controlled load servo?........kim...........
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Kim's right on. What is happening is what's known as shift overlap. It's when the front band is still applied momentarily while the front clutch applies. Basically your in 2nd and 3rd gear for a second at the same time. I never use 5.0 levers anymore because most of the time they cause overlap, even if you use both springs in the front servo, 15 springs in the front clutch, and install the restrictor. A 3.8 lever will generally give you a nice clean 2-3 shift and be plenty firm for the 1-2 shift. Do not run it much (just enough to test it) until you get it worked out because overlap is detrimental to a transmission.
RyanUpdike70
Well-Known Member
How much of a differcence does the 5.0 lever over the stock one I am running a ta mrvb. I thinking about buying but decided not to thanks
I don't know what kind of work was done to the trans I bought it that way was told that a shift kit and 5.0 levers were installed Iwas told to adjust bands andbe done with it.band adjustment was appox. 72''lbs or 6 ft lbs then 2 and 2.5 off/out. what should i do and do i have rip out the trans. or can this be done in the car. thanks for the info!
A 5.0 lever is for very high power engine. I am rebuilding my sons 727 right now because i wanted to put in a bolt in rear sprag. He has a Griner valve body with low band apply in 1st. It has a 3.2 shift lever and thats what Griner wants if its 700 horsepower or less. Hunky
That trans is not built right. Take it out and do it over take the 5.0 lever out and put in a 3.8. Make sure it has a bolt in rear sprag so it does'nt KILL you. Hunky
RyanUpdike70
Well-Known Member
ok thanks what is the stock one
..........Here's ur ratio's..........2.9 3.2 3.8 4.2 5.0 kim..........
RyanUpdike70
Well-Known Member
so how much does this change how hard it shifts
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
You keep saying levers but it's just one lever just so you know. I haven't tried changing one with the trans. in the car but I've read it's possible. Just drop the pan and valve body, take off the starter and torque converter access cover and back the front band adjuster screw off a bunch. Then using a 1/4" drive ratchet with an extension, go through the lower pass. side of the bellhousing/torque converter area you take out the pipe plug that is screwed in to hold in the lever mounting rod. When you take the plug out you can then slide the lever mounting rod forward with thin blade needle nose pliers until you can get the lever out and then reverse order to put it back together.
No guarantee this will fix your problem because if you read earlier posts you see there are a few other things that can cause your problem. You have to dig into it to find out what the problem is.
Whatever you do don't take the word of the person that told you to just adjust the bands and be done with it. If you do that I can guarantee you'll have it out to rebuild it pretty soon cause shift overlap is extremely hard on a transmission.
BTW: the adjustment you said was on the loose side so if anything that'd decrease the overlap a slight amount. If you tighten it up the overlap will get worse.
Your best bet might be to buy the book below and read up on Torqueflites so you know how they work and how to make sure they work right.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite--727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1295075271&sr=8-1"]Amazon.com: Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook HP1399: How to Rebuild or Modify Chrysler's A-727 Torqueflite for All Applications (0075478013999): Carl Munroe: Books[/ame]
I would take the trans out because the rear sprag MUST be a bolt in. If you have driven it much the way it is the band and also the foward clutch may be burnt. I would inspect everything because the person who put the 5.0 band did'nt know what they were doing any way. HUNKY
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