Transgo instructions Page 3 note 2
- Thread starter Mojoe9955
- Start date
-
Aluminum or copper (less effort to form ends) solid (versus stranded) wire or nail. Squeeze in place to make the ends bigger than the hole on both sides of the wall using channel locks. Both ends need to be bigger than the hole. The hole size can be slightly increased if needed to fit the wire/nail. A nail could just be bent if there is enough tail to hold it in place but no way it could touch the valve. Perfect seal is not necessary.
Don't use epoxy or any hardening liquid that could crumble and let go with age, exposure to atf, and heat cycles.
Don't use epoxy or any hardening liquid that could crumble and let go with age, exposure to atf, and heat cycles.
I found an 1/8" rivet stalk was a perfect fit. I remove the actual rivet sleeve which left the head, and cut it to length and was able to push it down and some how finagle it around to break off just right and leave enough to mash the end to secure it in the hole. I did nick the top edge of the valve body a little though. If there's a next time, I'll try a piece of solid copper wire which will probably bend easier while trying to secure it. As long as this system has been around you would think "Mr Shift" would have a plan for this situation.
Last edited:
VOETOM
Well-Known Member
He does have a suggestion. They typically suggest using a tight fitting cotter pin and cut it off. Like shared above, a 100% seal is not necessary.
VOETOM
Well-Known Member
MoJoe, I'll have to look in some of my instructions. It may have been in another kit and I assumed it was the TF-1,2, 3.
Tom Hand
Tom Hand
-
Similar threads
