I have a chance to pick up a fresh Ford Tremec T5 transmission. Thinking about put it behind a 450hp 5.9 in my Dart. Does anyone have any experience with this? Would it hold up alright?
Thanks
Thanks
Tremec T5
- Thread starter moparmarks
- Start date
-
Projectile Dart
Well-Known Member
t5s have been put in a bodies before but on paper they are only good up until the 300ish ft/lbs of torque mark. I wouldn't put it behind anything more than a bone stock small block but I think it would be perfectly suited behind a slant 6.
I think you might be asking a little too much of it with a 450hp engine.
I think you might be asking a little too much of it with a 450hp engine.
dano
Evil Handy Man
Coming from the Fox Mustang 5.0 world, no. They barley hold behind a 225hp, 300ft/lbs 5.0. There are upgrades to beef them up some. A TKO 600, TKX, or T56 is what you need if you want modern OD.
People complain about how a TKO shifts, I've had a T-3550 (in my Fox Mustang) and now a TKO 600 in my GTS and they both shifted smooth. The key is dialing in the bell runout to the crank, which you should do with any transmission.
People complain about how a TKO shifts, I've had a T-3550 (in my Fox Mustang) and now a TKO 600 in my GTS and they both shifted smooth. The key is dialing in the bell runout to the crank, which you should do with any transmission.
kdbunn
Well-Known Member
A few years ago I put a T5 in a 69 corvette. It had about 380 HP. The temptation to speed shift a few times eventually made the trans pop out of 3 gear occasionally. Not saying they all do that, but my opinion is the T5 is not made for performance driving. (or bang shifting your hot rod)
Okay thanks guys. I'll pass on it. I really want a T-56. After driving a Viper I love that transmission. I might consider the TKX. I'd like to drive one. I've done a few TKO's in E bodies and I don't think they shift as well as the 833 but their alright.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
as with anything it depends how you drive it
The 300fltb is a torque rateing derived from work on a trans dyno... Its a figure linked to the idea that if it was run at 300fllb of torque all day every day for a long period of time it would last
its designed to help a car designer decide if the trans will last the warranty period of the car and not cause a recall or massive expense in respect to money or reputation damage.
As such putting 600 fltlb through a 300ftlb rate trans is ok you just need to know that the life of the transmission will be some value shorter than if it was 300 flb
for example my motor is standard form does 280 ftlb, and it came with a 220 ftlb rated borg warner 4 speed unique to australian cars of all 3 brands...
but that same 4 speed was also used behind an E49 option 320 fltb version of the motor
and it was used behind 2bbl standard 318s
and with subtle changes behind holden and ford 6 and small v8
they last alright
t5
if you drive it no problem
if you try and punch it into gear like you were trying to pop out a headlamp with little clutch action and your right foot to the floor you will break it
if you can get it for $300 to $500 and
1) replace the input shaft and re shim (may as well get the spigot press fit with a 0.750 sleeve so it fits a mopar roller bearing spigot as well)
2) take off 5th and replace the pressed steel retainer with the steel precison one from paul at 5speeds.com and re shim using his peel and place shims to give it appox 1-2 thou preload, and you just added 50 ftlb onto the 300 or 320 your box came with.
check all gear teeth check all synchros seat but still have clearance
run a cheap chinese mustang shifter with over shift prevention lock bolts
you can enjoy superlative free way crusing with 3.7 or 3.89 rear end and take it for the odd squirt down the track with a sensible clutch slip off the line and no huge slicks
if you bung in a dana 60 drop the clutch at 5000 rpm with nice sticky tyres you will eventually make it into parts soup really dpends how light your car is how stiff yoru rear end is to turn and how you drive it
in a 1.3 or 1.4 metric tonne car i.e lighter than 80s mustang.... you have a chance
and of course lots of 80s/ 90s mustangs went racing.
if you swap to the flat cover
fit a chevy s10 tail housing
use a mopar bell on an adapter of 12-14 mm
the release bearing off a jeep on a mopar clutch arm or one form a dakota or a hemi car
the roller spigot used on a mganum motor (with the input shaft sleeved)
this trans mount 2771 Rear Transmission Mount 1Pc for chevrolet S10 83-82 RWD 1402791
ford clutch plate with your cover
ford yoke with coversion joint get the long yoke
in theory it will fit with minimal greif into a car with a 60s A body cross member. the type that takes the square mount.
this is my aim i haven't done it yet, need to put my trans back togther. but i based my conversion on the posts of a guy calling himself "cageman" who used to post here, and on various mopar sites in the 2000s/2010s
he fitted one from a chevy s10 4 cylinder (weak) in a valiant with a 318 or 340 with no cutting 1 extra hole in the cross member for the rubber mount and a bit of thumping with a hammer...
and a small 2by 2 inch hole in the middle of the tunnel ahead of the chassis member.
you have chosen a better version
and your only issue is the speedo drive to overcome. late ford is electronic pickup so the hole points direct at the output shaft not above of below.
you can spend $300 on 50c worth of electronics and get an electrioc speedo conversion box
or spend more on your s10 tail housing and get a clamp and sleeve off ebay to re site the speedo drive on the narrower part of the output shaft
here is a link to what needs to be done to a NONE world class housing off an s10 (the one with the mechanical speedo drive hole angle) to get it to fit your world class ford spec t5 with reverse brake.
Technical - T5 Transmission S10 Tail/extension
really dpends how you drive and how far off you are from buying a bigger, more cutting needed, tremec
out of all the bigger tremec transmissions an ex mopar/keisler conversion tremec 3550 fits easiest but still needs the tunnel rasied and front thin side of the chassis cross member removed.. the rib just misses the shifter box
Dave
The 300fltb is a torque rateing derived from work on a trans dyno... Its a figure linked to the idea that if it was run at 300fllb of torque all day every day for a long period of time it would last
its designed to help a car designer decide if the trans will last the warranty period of the car and not cause a recall or massive expense in respect to money or reputation damage.
As such putting 600 fltlb through a 300ftlb rate trans is ok you just need to know that the life of the transmission will be some value shorter than if it was 300 flb
for example my motor is standard form does 280 ftlb, and it came with a 220 ftlb rated borg warner 4 speed unique to australian cars of all 3 brands...
but that same 4 speed was also used behind an E49 option 320 fltb version of the motor
and it was used behind 2bbl standard 318s
and with subtle changes behind holden and ford 6 and small v8
they last alright
t5
if you drive it no problem
if you try and punch it into gear like you were trying to pop out a headlamp with little clutch action and your right foot to the floor you will break it
if you can get it for $300 to $500 and
1) replace the input shaft and re shim (may as well get the spigot press fit with a 0.750 sleeve so it fits a mopar roller bearing spigot as well)
2) take off 5th and replace the pressed steel retainer with the steel precison one from paul at 5speeds.com and re shim using his peel and place shims to give it appox 1-2 thou preload, and you just added 50 ftlb onto the 300 or 320 your box came with.
check all gear teeth check all synchros seat but still have clearance
run a cheap chinese mustang shifter with over shift prevention lock bolts
you can enjoy superlative free way crusing with 3.7 or 3.89 rear end and take it for the odd squirt down the track with a sensible clutch slip off the line and no huge slicks
if you bung in a dana 60 drop the clutch at 5000 rpm with nice sticky tyres you will eventually make it into parts soup really dpends how light your car is how stiff yoru rear end is to turn and how you drive it
in a 1.3 or 1.4 metric tonne car i.e lighter than 80s mustang.... you have a chance
and of course lots of 80s/ 90s mustangs went racing.
if you swap to the flat cover
fit a chevy s10 tail housing
use a mopar bell on an adapter of 12-14 mm
the release bearing off a jeep on a mopar clutch arm or one form a dakota or a hemi car
the roller spigot used on a mganum motor (with the input shaft sleeved)
this trans mount 2771 Rear Transmission Mount 1Pc for chevrolet S10 83-82 RWD 1402791
ford clutch plate with your cover
ford yoke with coversion joint get the long yoke
in theory it will fit with minimal greif into a car with a 60s A body cross member. the type that takes the square mount.
this is my aim i haven't done it yet, need to put my trans back togther. but i based my conversion on the posts of a guy calling himself "cageman" who used to post here, and on various mopar sites in the 2000s/2010s
he fitted one from a chevy s10 4 cylinder (weak) in a valiant with a 318 or 340 with no cutting 1 extra hole in the cross member for the rubber mount and a bit of thumping with a hammer...
and a small 2by 2 inch hole in the middle of the tunnel ahead of the chassis member.
you have chosen a better version
and your only issue is the speedo drive to overcome. late ford is electronic pickup so the hole points direct at the output shaft not above of below.
you can spend $300 on 50c worth of electronics and get an electrioc speedo conversion box
or spend more on your s10 tail housing and get a clamp and sleeve off ebay to re site the speedo drive on the narrower part of the output shaft
here is a link to what needs to be done to a NONE world class housing off an s10 (the one with the mechanical speedo drive hole angle) to get it to fit your world class ford spec t5 with reverse brake.
Technical - T5 Transmission S10 Tail/extension
really dpends how you drive and how far off you are from buying a bigger, more cutting needed, tremec
out of all the bigger tremec transmissions an ex mopar/keisler conversion tremec 3550 fits easiest but still needs the tunnel rasied and front thin side of the chassis cross member removed.. the rib just misses the shifter box
Dave
Last edited:
I'm getting ready to do t Tremec T5 conversion on Vixen. Everything I've read seems to point to it being perfect for a slant 6. I have everything, I just have to finish a couple of projects first and then I'm gonna get to it. I think it could hold up to your power level, IF you babied it all the time......but what would the fun be in that?
Dave999
Well-Known Member
yup there are better solutions for a big motor, but depends on what he wants....
cut the car up or not. we both have motors that provide just enough fun without the damage...i.e we need to try harder to break a t5..
cut the car up or not. we both have motors that provide just enough fun without the damage...i.e we need to try harder to break a t5..
Last edited:
DionR
Well-Known Member
That's where I was at. Loved how the TR6060 worked in my 2015 Challenger and decided that anything else would be "settling" so pulled the trigger on a kit last month. 10% off and avoided the announced price increase coming from Tremec, so finally just did it.
I built this car to drive hard and have real fun. Planning to road race it some. From your info I don't see a T5 lasting very long.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
thats probably true the fun bit more than the road race bit... its shock loads spreading the case that chews teeth and causes failure.
Dave
the fun bit more than the road race bit... its shock loads spreading the case that chews teeth and causes failure.Dave
darndart
Well-Known Member
I’ve got a 114,00 T5 from a 89 Mustang GT in my 82 Capri RS, probably close to 400hp. I’ve beat this thing to death for the last few years. I’ve did 100’s of 6000 rpm clutch drops with slicks, 1.51 60fts, 12.09 @ 112mph. I’m truly surprised this thing is still together, maybe I got a good one. The Capri only weighs 2900 lbs, so this probably helps.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
well my Valiant charger is 2981LB, so that bodes well for me
lets hope mine is a good one as well.
dave
lets hope mine is a good one as well.
dave
-
