Trick Flow heads and water jackets

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royalbull73

royalbull73

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Just received my motor back from the machinist and will be installing it back into my Demon. My question is when I go to hook up my Dougs headers will the bolts be going into a water jacket on the heads or is this even a concern with Trick Flow heads? If I had an air compressor, I know I could just blow air into each bolt hole and that would tell me, but at this time I don't have one. What is the preferred way to seal the bolts these days? Teflon tape? or a high temp paste sealant?

Thanks in advance.
 
Probe the hole with a small zip tie, 4” long is all you need, on a stock head the blind holes are roughly 1” - 1-1/8” deep water jacket holes the 4” zip tie will go in probably all the way.
Suggested method.
 
I wouldn’t use bolts, I would switch to studs especially with aluminum heads. I would use anti-seize. My TF 240’s exhaust manifold holes don’t go into water jackets.
 
royalbull73 said:
Just received my motor back from the machinist and will be installing it back into my Demon. My question is when I go to hook up my Dougs headers will the bolts be going into a water jacket on the heads or is this even a concern with Trick Flow heads? If I had an air compressor, I know I could just blow air into each bolt hole and that would tell me, but at this time I don't have one. What is the preferred way to seal the bolts these days? Teflon tape? or a high temp paste sealant?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Nope, they are blind holes and do not go into the water jackets. No sealant needed but absolutely use anti-seize on all the bolts that go into the heads.
 
I would use s/s steel bolts so that they do not react with the alum.
 
Studs will make it difficult [ or impossible ] with some chassis layouts to fit exh man or headers.
Summit used to sell s/s 'dress up' kits for all the popular engines, probably still do. All the external bolts that are visible are s/s.
 
With aluminum heads and or radiators you should install a sacrificial anode in the cooling system.

I’ve seen anodes attached to the cap but mine is installed where the drain petcock goes.
 
Ironically I drained the water out of my race car today and low and behold the anode was ate completely away.
IMG_2492.jpeg
 
royalbull73 said:
Wow, how long had it been since you had last checked on it? I ordered one and it should be here today.
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Checked it beginning of the season. I think it due to excessive current because my distributor is locked and she starts real hard sometimes. Never done that before dizzy was locked out.

I will put the springs back in for next season so that should fix it.
 
I must be lucky; because I am using an alum rad...& it does not have a sacrificial anode. Engine parts that have contact with coolant are iron, steel & alum. None have corroded over 20 yrs.
I DO have my rad earthed to the bat -ve terminal.
And I DO use the correct corrosion inhibitor.
 
royalbull73 said:
Just received my motor back from the machinist and will be installing it back into my Demon. My question is when I go to hook up my Dougs headers will the bolts be going into a water jacket on the heads or is this even a concern with Trick Flow heads? If I had an air compressor, I know I could just blow air into each bolt hole and that would tell me, but at this time I don't have one. What is the preferred way to seal the bolts these days? Teflon tape? or a high temp paste sealant?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Go to the electronic section at China mart, get a can of compressed air for cleaning computers, cheap and works good
 
Bewy said:
I must be lucky; because I am using an alum rad...& it does not have a sacrificial anode. Engine parts that have contact with coolant are iron, steel & alum. None have corroded over 20 yrs.
I DO have my rad earthed to the bat -ve terminal.
And I DO use the correct corrosion inhibitor.
Click to expand...
Race car, we can only run water.
 
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