whitey
Well-Known Member
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=109462
Ok...I started the thread above because I had a major electrical melt down on my way home from Carlisle. I removed the windsheild, then the dash as a whole because I felt it would be easier to see the extent of the damage as the wires sat behind the dash.
The black wire from the bulkhead connector to the welded splice and ammeter and the red wire returning back to the bulkhead connector were severely melted. They were so bad that the heat melted the wire loom covering I put there when restoring the car, and melted to other wires. The ammeter actually burned, melted the bulb socket above the ammeter, and destroyed the circuit board. The wire from the bulkhead connector to the starter relay (that has the fusible link on it) was fine.
I found the article on MAD Electrical website about bypassing the ammeter...
http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
I decided to re-run the wire from the alternator to the bulkhead connector with 10 gauge wire (12 gauge from factory) as an upgrade and this way I would not have to splice a wire together. When removing the wire from the harness I discovered a splice that was one of those 'tap' connectors on one end and soldered on the other end. It was almost like someone did a repair. Why somone would use a cheap connector on one end and solder on the other has me confused but seemed like a BAD weak spot.
I replaced the melted 12 gauge wires from the bulkhead connector to the welded splice and the splice to by pass the ammeter with 10 gauge wires and for safety kept them seperate from the rest of the harness.
One thing I did not care for was to extend the wires through the bulkhead connector to the starter relay in case of the need to remove the dash again (God Forbid). So what I did was ran a 10 ga wire from the starter relay (with the 16 ga fusible link wire) to a terminal block on the fire wall under the dash (JEGS has a 2 terminal with cover). I added another 16 ga. wire for safety precautions from the terminal block to the 10 gauge wires I ran.
I origionally made a 3 gauge pod and mounted it by removing the rusty ash tray, I now had to make a 4 gauge pod to add a voltmeter. I went back and re-did ALL my old connections with non insulated crimp connectors and/or soldered them. I replaced my voltage regulator and alternator.
After being down for 2 months my Dart roared to life and ran GREAT, the electric fuel pump ran better, lights were brighter. The next thing to do is install the headlight relay upgrade I got from Painless.
I DEFINATELY recommend this electrical upgrade to anyone using an ammeter, after seeing how bad the damage really was I thanked God that it was not any worse.
Ok...I started the thread above because I had a major electrical melt down on my way home from Carlisle. I removed the windsheild, then the dash as a whole because I felt it would be easier to see the extent of the damage as the wires sat behind the dash.
The black wire from the bulkhead connector to the welded splice and ammeter and the red wire returning back to the bulkhead connector were severely melted. They were so bad that the heat melted the wire loom covering I put there when restoring the car, and melted to other wires. The ammeter actually burned, melted the bulb socket above the ammeter, and destroyed the circuit board. The wire from the bulkhead connector to the starter relay (that has the fusible link on it) was fine.
I found the article on MAD Electrical website about bypassing the ammeter...
http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
I decided to re-run the wire from the alternator to the bulkhead connector with 10 gauge wire (12 gauge from factory) as an upgrade and this way I would not have to splice a wire together. When removing the wire from the harness I discovered a splice that was one of those 'tap' connectors on one end and soldered on the other end. It was almost like someone did a repair. Why somone would use a cheap connector on one end and solder on the other has me confused but seemed like a BAD weak spot.
I replaced the melted 12 gauge wires from the bulkhead connector to the welded splice and the splice to by pass the ammeter with 10 gauge wires and for safety kept them seperate from the rest of the harness.
One thing I did not care for was to extend the wires through the bulkhead connector to the starter relay in case of the need to remove the dash again (God Forbid). So what I did was ran a 10 ga wire from the starter relay (with the 16 ga fusible link wire) to a terminal block on the fire wall under the dash (JEGS has a 2 terminal with cover). I added another 16 ga. wire for safety precautions from the terminal block to the 10 gauge wires I ran.
I origionally made a 3 gauge pod and mounted it by removing the rusty ash tray, I now had to make a 4 gauge pod to add a voltmeter. I went back and re-did ALL my old connections with non insulated crimp connectors and/or soldered them. I replaced my voltage regulator and alternator.
After being down for 2 months my Dart roared to life and ran GREAT, the electric fuel pump ran better, lights were brighter. The next thing to do is install the headlight relay upgrade I got from Painless.
I DEFINATELY recommend this electrical upgrade to anyone using an ammeter, after seeing how bad the damage really was I thanked God that it was not any worse.
