Tritech three piece rear main seal instal?

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gregsdart

gregsdart

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Two days (thurs/fri) trying to reach Tritech or Patterson Ellite to get instructions on this seal and nobody is answering phones! This type of seal has to be installed on the crank first, then the crank goes in the block. If it is done wrong there is no way to fix it short of pulling the motor apart or cutting the seal off and going back to a two piece regular type seal.
Soooooo, this is what i have found out so far.
Seal is made of PTFE- this material is self lubing and is far superior to other materials for working speeds and temps.
Absolutly no lube on seal lips or crank- install dry
Splits go at 12 and 6 oclock.
The sealing band that goes around the seal needs a very light coating of lube on the outer edge so when the crank is laid in the block it doesn't drag and bunch up, causing a leak.
BUT- i still have no idea which way the seal lip faces! If i am wrong there goes a very expensive seal plus cost of a different one.

20200418_203442.jpg
 
yup lip of seal, faces the oil or whatever your tying to keep on the inside
 
These seals were designed to work with drysump systems and leak if there is no vacuum. That is one reason i didn't just put it in facing the oil. Have you guys used this particular seal? I appreciate your input, hope you understand my caution.
 
gregsdart said:
These seals were designed to work with drysump systems and leak if there is no vacuum. That is one reason i didn't just put it in facing the oil. Have you guys used this particular seal? I appreciate your input, hope you understand my caution.
Click to expand...
Dry sump Hmmmmm
That could be the exception to the rule!
 
gregsdart said:
Exactly!
Click to expand...
FINALLY! Talked to the engineer that designs these seals for Nascar and prostock.
The lip faces the transmission so vacuum pulls it tighter. Install dry and dry crank surface. Self lubing. except for light lube on the outer O ring for ease of install. Splits at 10 and 2 oclock. PTFE Can withstand very high rpm and much wider temp range than other seals.
 
Update- tried to install, pinched the outer band and ruined it! I may try again but not soon! Grrrrrrr!
 
Its a pain to out in, have a similar design that Kent Ritter sells with his block. Slow and easy. His is just a two piece.

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Yeah, putting it on the crank thought I'd break it lol but it flexed great and the gap once on had me a little worried but once torque down closes up and good to go.
 
If i ever pull the crank again i plan on assembling the seal on the crank without the round band and pull it together with a large hoseclamp overnight. Then try putting the round band on and put the crank in.
 
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