Trying to degree my camshaft

[1930]

I am playing around with a spare engine trying to learn the trade so I can assemble the real deal with as little snags as possible.

I didnt know the condition of this used cam other than it looked ok, I measured it ( carefully with my dial calipers ) and these are the numbers I cam up with

 

[1930]

I am playing around with a spare engine trying to learn the trade so I can assemble the real deal with as little snags as possible.

I didnt know the condition of this used cam other than it looked ok, I measured it ( carefully with my dial calipers ) and these are the numbers I cam up with

I then posted the scribble marks on the backside of the cam to someone over on R.C and he showed me the original specs

 

[1930]

I then posted the scribble marks on the backside of the cam to someone over on R.C and he showed me the original specs

 

[1930]

I then got my timing marks kinda close on the chain, installed my degree wheel and fashioned a pointer and set that for TDC on the wheel.

I installed my piston stop, rotated my engine until it came up to the stop, recorded my readings and then rotated the engine opposite way until stop, recorded my readings, added the numbers together and divided by 2.

Moved my wheel to that number and checked everything one more time to make sure I was getting the same number both directions at both stops.

Removed lifter out of the first lifter bore ( is that exhaust or intake ) inserted my home made tool and mounted my dial indicator.

Made sure the cam was on its heel and zerod my dial indicator.

Spun crank (always in same direction now ) and watched lifter eventually start to rise, stopped at .050 and this is the reading I got.

 

[rustycowll69]

when you're measuring the cam lobes, whether it be by dial calipers, or dial indicator, you should be aware that the cam lobes have a taper to them. In other words, the nose of the cam is not flat, but a very slight angle. That way the lifter rides near the edge of the lobe near the edge of the (convex)bottom of the lifter, and it will impart a spin to the lifter and thus the pushrod. This helps the cam lobe and lifter "live".

 

[1930]

Watched the lifter go up and over the ramp and dial started climbing down, went past the zero and then back up to .050 and this is the reading I got.

 

[1930]

Next I moved over to the next lifter bore ( is that intake or exhaust ) and set up my indicator the same way and took my measurements the same way.

 

[1930]

And then coming down.

What did i do wrong, why dont the numbers match....I havent even looked yet but I already know the are not gonna

 

[cookietruck]

read example two, pg 7 on this sheet.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/camshaft_instructions_Mar_2016.pdf

looks like your cam is in at 103* ??

 

[yellow rose]

The first lobe is the exhaust valve, the second lobe is the intake. They damn sure better be different.

Degree it off the intake lobe.

 

[1930]

read example two, pg 7 on this sheet.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/camshaft_instructions_Mar_2016.pdf

looks like your cam is in at 103* ??

The more I mess with this stuff the more I think I should stick too bodywork!

I called comp cams and they told me that for this particular cam the timing events are as follows @.050
Intake opens14 BTDC
Intake closes 46 ABDC
Exhaust opens 57 BBDC
Exhaust closes 9 ATDC

 

[1930]

The first lobe is the exhaust valve, the second lobe is the intake. They damn sure better be different.

Degree it off the intake lobe.

Called comp and they give me both see above

 

[yellow rose]

Called comp and they give me both see above

I use the intake center line method, because I don't really care where the valve is at .050 and it can be off a bit. I want to know where max lift is relative to the piston after TDC.

So, per your cam card, the ICL should be 106* ATDC. It should be close at .050 but lifter bank angles, lobe taper and things like that can affect the .050 lift number.

 

[rustycowll69]

why aren't you just using the instructions on the front of the degree plate?

 

[brian6pac]

That's a great question

 

[yellow rose]

Hard to read the wheel when the writing is upside down?

 

[yellow rose]

BTW, that's the same degree wheel I've been using since 1980 and my dad bought it in about 1966 I think. Mine says Isky on it though. Same thing.

 

[Daves69]

Hard to read the wheel when the writing is upside down?

Lol........

 

[yellow rose]

Lol........
View attachment 1715040293

Well, you could rotate the thing I suppose!

 

[joec]

in post 7 it looks like you are opening at 12 btdc or 13 which is 1 or 2 deg retarded. . On 8 it looks like 12 abdc. Something moved.Usually if I can get the intake opening correct I call it a day(lazy I know).You can spend hours and not get them both reading correct.

 

[1930]

why aren't you just using the instructions on the front of the degree plate?

I dont know, why are they different? Ill check it out again tomm.

 

[1930]

in post 7 it looks like you are opening at 12 btdc or 13 which is 1 or 2 deg retarded. . On 8 it looks like 12 abdc. Something moved.Usually if I can get the intake opening correct I call it a day(lazy I know).You can spend hours and not get them both reading correct.

Post 7 and 8 are showing two different timing events.

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks for starting this thread I have never degreed a cam but want to and Ihave a 318 on an engine stand right now. Pics are helping me understand this.
Dont read too much into this BUT could it be because the degree wheel is 360*, the crank has to go thru 2 complete revolutions for all 8 cyls to go thru all cycles? So essentially 720* for 16 valves=45* per valve?
Just thinking out loud here.

 

[joec]

Post 7 and 8 are showing two different timing events.

I know #7 is intake opening #8 is closing.

 

[1930]

Thanks for starting this thread I have never degreed a cam but want to and Ihave a 318 on an engine stand right now. Pics are helping me understand this.
Dont read too much into this BUT could it be because the degree wheel is 360*, the crank has to go thru 2 complete revolutions for all 8 cyls to go thru all cycles? So essentially 720* for 16 valves=45* per valve?
Just thinking out loud here.

Im gonna start a whole new deal tomm cause somehow this one just isnt getting anywhere and Im sure Im too blame

I gotta figure out a better way of posting. The problem I have is that my internet is so slooow at the shop and so its tough to upload pics.

Believe me I spent months on this forum and another forum trying to figure out this degreeing deal only cause I tend to make something big out of something small. The process really isnt a big deal, why Im not seeing what I think I should be seeing is only cause I am misunderstanding something probably simple.