Two steps forward and a giant leap backwards.

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It's just fuel polluted Penn grade oil.
I see no separation that shows me any different.
 
Dude,

If this is the original oil from the build, then it is going to be funky. I has break in additive in it. You should run it for a few hundred miles especially if it is a flat tappet engine, which yours I believe is not? Kammers did my engine this spring too. They did not change the oil after the dyno runs. The Brad Penn oil blend is the ****, it used to be Kendall GT-1, and is now Penn Grade. This is what I have used now for years. My cam and lifters were perfrect with 1500 miles. I just did my first oil change after the build. I would worry about no coolant in the block though, rust is in there prolly, coolant acts as a anti corrosive. Add some Evaporust to the cooling system and run it per the directions, then drain, add the coolant of choice and maybe even some Water Wetter too. Or give up and sell me the Car lol!

FYI,
Marion
 
I was getting my Dart ready for its maiden voyage and decided to throw some fresh oil in it. The engine has less than 5 miles on it but it’s been sitting for a few years with start ups roughly every month. Oil never looked bad but I wanted to be safe. This is what I found. Smelled like fuel pretty bad but I wouldn’t think fuel or assembly lube would discolor it that bad. Running a pressure test on the system to check for leaks but part of me still hopes it’s something minor.

View attachment 1715835900

Funny how this went from oil looking murky to a bunch of bs/stuff about coolant being the issue and a boatload of tails of coolant.
 
There is no evidence of water or coolant in the jar, please! Or no milky gook. You will know it when you see it!

I wasn’t in a rush to tear anything apart. It will go on the trailer to Bethel frame then I’m driving it to Southside and back to the house. I’ll check the oil after that drive but I’m not super concerned now that I know there is no water.
 
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