U joints.....what company??

-
T67POWER

T67POWER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2009
Messages
669
Reaction score
9
What brand u joint do you guys like?????




I need a 7290/7260 conversion joint.
5.527x ...........................i Used a cheaper brand and it's already toast in 6 months.
I think a dana / spicer joint will be next.
Drag racing and cheap parts don't mix.
 
If old Lakewood available, that( most likely not.). After that Dana/Spicer ,still good. Avoid the local parts chain stuff.(Precision/GMB/all else). Go to a good drive shaft shop,ask for genuine Spicer.You won't be sorry. Lost a driveshaft,to cheapo Chinese U.J.I had the drive shaft loop on,thank god.
 
There isn't a damn thing wrong with Precision, and the last ones I bought were still US made.
 
67 ,a good product. As a parts guy,warrantied a lot more Precision,than Spicer. Just stating ,personal experience. If going Precision,buy the hardened ones.
 
Duralast.



Somebody had to throw a joke in.
 
Duralast, precision, lakewood or any from any big chain parts store that are all china shops are junk, and precision hasen't been us made in a long time unless you found one that was old laying on a shelf.

Even then the spicer is better than the rest of all those when they were made here.
 
Non greaseable are somewhat stronger depending who makes it, lakewood i'd put a greasable 1310 over they're solid ALL YEAR.
But it comes down to the series joint and the specific use being applied.
Less than 800hp a 1310 will be fine, a 1310 in spl will work with even more than 800.
7260 is equivalent to 1310 and 7290 is more equal to 1330
 
Abodybomber said:
If old Lakewood available, that( most likely not.). After that Dana/Spicer ,still good. Avoid the local parts chain stuff.(Precision/GMB/all else). Go to a good drive shaft shop,ask for genuine Spicer.You won't be sorry. Lost a driveshaft,to cheapo Chinese U.J.I had the drive shaft loop on,thank god.
Click to expand...
that reminds me put in the loop.....
 
I've never seen a functional difference between "blue boot" Spicer U-joints and standard Precision U-joints.

I prefer the OEM style, non grease-able Spicer "snap tite" U-joints, however. Because of their sealed design, this U-joint is less likely to fail due to water/dirt contamination.

BTW, I've never received a Precision U-joint that was not made in USA.
 
Does anybody run non greaseable u joints on the street and how long have they been in the car.

If you do race your car at the strip with slicks,how often do you replace your u joints?
 
OEM U-joints are non grease-able. The Spicer snap tite joints in my '95 diesel have almost 300,000 miles on them.

Unfortunately, I don't think you can get a solid 7290/7260 conversion joint.
 
DoctorDiff said:
BTW, I've never received a Precision U-joint that was not made in USA.
Click to expand...

Then you're getting joints off a shelf from 5 years ago of more, which is possible since some joints don't move like others

The precision caps don't have the same hardness

moog, presicion, lakewood, woods, sierra, napa, autozone the rest of the chain APS and many others are all sharing the same 2 china comps stuff in different boxes.

There are no SPL joints in 7260 x 7290 or any 2 sided cross conversions, there are 1310 x 7260 and 1330 x 7290 where the difference is made up on the cap.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top