update on my tick

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Snake

Snake

Mopar Nut
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Ok I check out my push rods and I do have 9 of the 360 rods in my 318 I would have never figured this out with out the help of some of you:cheers:wow way to go so I am hoping geting the 9 out of it will cure the tick what do yous think chances sound good? also the motor only has about maybe 2 hours running time could thoes rods of damaged the lifters?Thanks guys.I owe you all a beer.
 
Hey Snake,

Mixing different lengths of pushrods is never a good thing and can cause collapsed lifters from too much pre-load.

I'm guessing that you are using non-adjustable rockers. If you are, you need to get an adjustable pushrod and target .040" pre-load, measure the push rod then order a corresponding set of the correct length. You can always use the 318 pushrods you have and make sure you're getting the correct pre-load too. It's a hassle but it's the only way to do it right with a non-adjustable valve train and an aftermarket market cam.
 
Ramcharger yeh its non adjustable rockers.I just finished removing the wrong 360 push rods 9 of them,it now has all 318 push rods in a 318.Firered it up the tap is what I should of called it, is not as bad as befor but still there.Measureing preload I have no clue how to do it out of my league,I guess I should of stayed with the stock cam.So is it possible that I now have killed 9 lifters from to much load.Not a big deal to pull it apart and try new lifters,man I am stump.Some say Comp cam and lifters are noisey you think this is true.Thanks.
 
I'll answer your questions in a hour or two, it's dog walk time and they're climbing all over me as I try to type.
 
You need a dial indicator with a magnetic base and stand to measure preload. The indicator measuring tip is placed on the lifter plunger when the opposite lifter is at full lift. Now you have to loosen the rocker shaft until the pushrod on the lifter you are measuring is loose. Now set the dial to zero or take note of where it's at, and tighten the rocker shaft back down and take your reading. Keep in mind that this is only one method and I'm sure more people will chime in on their favorite way. Generally, you can do this to two intakes and two exhausts, average out the reading and select pushrods accordingly. Like I said, it's a ***** and even harder if it has a crappy valve job as you'll find yourself buying 16 different custom pushrods, then if you change a head, head gaskets, cam, lifters, you have to do this all over again.

I learned long ago it just makes sense to go with an adjustable valvetrain when I was in my late teens souping up fords. :) You still have to get the right pushrods but you can compensate for changes somewhat without going through all this.

IIRC Comp recommends an adjustable valvetrain for most of their cams. I'm also thinking that the camshaft you selected is a 280H. That is a mighty big cam for a 318 and comp recommends at least a 9:1 comp ratio, and a 2500 stall converter if you are running an automatic, 3.50-3.91 gears and that's for the bigger displacement 340 and 360.

Edit, I just checked the footnotes and Comp says "Adjustable Valvetrain Required" for that cam.
 

I really don't think you can kill the lifters with the tiny difference between the pushrods. Go drive it, it may go away. (But if they are cheap lifters, it will be there every start up)

I had the most annoying lifter issue you have ever seen, went solid.
 
dodgetkboy78 said:
I really don't think you can kill the lifters with the tiny difference between the pushrods. Go drive it, it may go away. (But if they are cheap lifters, it will be there every start up)

I had the most annoying lifter issue you have ever seen, went solid.
Click to expand...

Why would you do this? It's possible that he has lost any "cushion" between the lifter and the pushord. This would cause the lifter/pushrod to go solid and the first time he runs the motor up in rpm he'll get major valve float and probably wipe that cam,possibly drive a valve into a piston.

Snake,dont do this.Fix it right.
 
Thanks Ramcharger just talk to comp cam and I have to say I am sorry about thinking comp is crap this is all my fault my thought was to put this cam in my 318 and later on in my 360 dam I @#$% up.I am at the point that I realy dont want to play with adjusting rockers,might better just stay some what stock.How about a 340 cam for the 318 than for the 360 staying with stock valve train.Thanks for finding my fault.all i was after was a little lump sound.what do you think would be the cam for me.Stock comp, headers, 355 gear.duel plane intake.
 
needsaresto said:
Why would you do this? It's possible that he has lost any "cushion" between the lifter and the pushord. This would cause the lifter/pushrod to go solid and the first time he runs the motor up in rpm he'll get major valve float and probably wipe that cam,possibly drive a valve into a piston.

Snake,dont do this.Fix it right.
Click to expand...

To the snot nose.

He said it still had a faint tick after he changed the lifters, do some reading. I said drive it, it may go away, for I didn't think (maybe I should explain myself more clearly) in the short time he killed the lifters with the odball pushrods.

FYI, if it was too tight, it wouldnt have been ticking................
 
Ticking can be either a cause for concern as a mechanical problem as it is in this case... or a symptom of another issue like a flattened camsahft or other valve train wear or machining issues. There is no way to know until one looks, unless one has taken all the proper steps and then had a problem... Which really means, you still have to look...lol. IMO, driving with an engine issue causes more damage in most cases but one never can say 100% of the time with much of anything. The vast majority of issues (other than mismatching or power production as a result) with valve train and cams are the result of ignorance. That's no big deal, and for a while, the cam companies were behind the curve on things too. **** happens. Hopefully this fixes it.
 
Snake said:
Thanks Ramcharger just talk to comp cam and I have to say I am sorry about thinking comp is crap this is all my fault my thought was to put this cam in my 318 and later on in my 360 dam I @#$% up.I am at the point that I realy dont want to play with adjusting rockers,might better just stay some what stock.How about a 340 cam for the 318 than for the 360 staying with stock valve train.Thanks for finding my fault.all i was after was a little lump sound.what do you think would be the cam for me.Stock comp, headers, 355 gear.duel plane intake.
Click to expand...

I think the Comp 260H would be a much better choice for your combo and should work with the stock valvetrain. Buy the cam alone and see if you can find brand name lifters locally for a decent price. I found some speed pro lifters at a local store for around 3 bucks a piece. TRW's if you can find them are good lifters too. I haven't had a problem with the Comp lifters but it seems that a lot of people have. Just make sure you have the proper pushrods and valve springs for the application and you should be go.

Moper is right too. You need to pull that thing apart and find out what's going on. Check if any of the lifter plungers are stuck all the way down.
 
We Try not to call people "snot nose".....as far as the cam being wiped ...I doubt it in that short period of time....when you get it running again,run the engine at about 2500 rpm's for a minute or two and kill the ignition cold....in a few minutes restart it and you may be surprised to find the tick is gone or lessened....have a lil' faith it's a 318......let us know how it does....Wagg's
dodgetkboy78 said:
To the snot nose.

He said it still had a faint tick after he changed the lifters, do some reading. I said drive it, it may go away, for I didn't think (maybe I should explain myself more clearly) in the short time he killed the lifters with the odball pushrods.

FYI, if it was too tight, it wouldnt have been ticking................
Click to expand...
 
I try not to too, normally don't, but when someone quotes me, and gets condescending because they didn't read........

Really good chance the lifter is just collapsed, since it now has the short pushrods in it. He said the tick wasn't that bad, if it had a wiped cam, or a stuck lifter, wouldn't it be worse with the shorter rods? To me, it would make sense to run it a bit, I have h ad more SB's with the mystery collapsed lifter, hell, Chryslers are famous for it.

On the other hand.

The 260 comp sounds stock.
If you want some sound, the Voodoo's have a nice bite.
Not to mention, a set of pushrods, and stock 273 adj rockers are cheap cheap cheap, cheap. And wayyy easier than a cam change.
 
i have not changed the lifters just the wrong push rods and the tick is still there.From what Ramcharger is saying I need different push rods and adjustable rockers.Lessend learned I should of done better research.Like i said a time ago maybe 3 mounths ago Its been a few years since I played with cam change.Thanks to all
 
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