Upgrade to LBP - Ordering New Axles???

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71Demon340

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I have a 71 A-body with the original 8 3/4 rear with the oddball 10" x 1 3/4" drums and SBP. I want to upgrade to LBP with Moser axles and the 10" x 2 1/2" drums. I am assuming that the axles will need to be longer since the brakes are wider. How do I specify the dimensions for the new axles. Do I just tell them exactly what set-up I have and they will know what axles I need. I don't see a way to mock-up everything and get accurate measurements. Any advice? Thanks.
 
71Demon340 said:
I have a 71 A-body with the original 8 3/4 rear with the oddball 10" x 1 3/4" drums and SBP. I want to upgrade to LBP with Moser axles and the 10" x 2 1/2" drums. I am assuming that the axles will need to be longer since the brakes are wider. How do I specify the dimensions for the new axles. Do I just tell them exactly what set-up I have and they will know what axles I need. I don't see a way to mock-up everything and get accurate measurements. Any advice? Thanks.
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Unless you must have the wider drum, you can have Moser redrill your axles and drums for the larger pattern. It`s definitely the cheapest method of getting the 4.5" bc. You can probably get all of that done and new bearings for cheaper than the price of new axles. The new axles/drums will push your wheel out further too sometimes resulting in tires scraping the fenderwell and the need for a possible rim swap with different backspacing.
 
10 x 2 1/2" brakes used different backing plates which were deeper I believe. Compare your parts.
 
just call moser and tell them you nee large bolt pattern axles for an a-body 8 3/4. the backing plates will be deeper allowing the brakes to fit just fine... the big bolt axle only pushed the flange out a minimal amount.. something lie 3/8" or less. i forget the exact amount... to me redrilling the stock ones don't leave enough metal around the studs.. i'm sure pleanty of guys have had no problems with it but its just not for me..
 
I don't want to re-drill the stock axles because of what abodyjoe said - not enough metal left outside the studs. If the LBP axles kick the flange out a little, this causes the rotor to be farther out. So is the rotor going to line up properly on the shoes?
 
71Demon340 said:
I don't want to re-drill the stock axles because of what abodyjoe said - not enough metal left outside the studs. If the LBP axles kick the flange out a little, this causes the rotor to be farther out. So is the rotor going to line up properly on the shoes?
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Unless you`re really building a lot of horsepower I wouldn`t worry with the loss of material on the axles. Now if you`re racing, running slicks, pushing 500 hp, and pulling high rpm hole shots, then you might want to go with a replacement axle. The new axles will push the drum (I guess thats what you mean by rotor) out further even with the new backing plates. If you go with a replacement axle you`ll need to get the backing plates, shoes, and drums that go with the later model brakes. If you still want new axles ,then like Abodyjoe said, call Moser and they can furnish them. The drums and shoes are available at most auto parts stores, you can probably reuse your wheel cylinders, you`ll need new 1/2" lugs, and the backing plates you can probably find at a junkyard.
 
71Demon340 said:
I don't want to re-drill the stock axles because of what abodyjoe said - not enough metal left outside the studs. If the LBP axles kick the flange out a little, this causes the rotor to be farther out. So is the rotor going to line up properly on the shoes?
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if you order the large bolt axles then buy a complete big bolt brake set up say off of a c-body everything will line up fine.. its a bolt on swap.. just make sure that the backing plates and the drums are a pair..
 
Brakes off a B-Body will work too. The SBP A-Body had an oddball thin flange. By going to the newer axle you are just setting yourself up with the standard Mopar brake pattern.
 
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