magnumdust
Well-Known Member
Is there any appreciable performance difference between these two styles of sub-frame connectors??
US cartool subframe connectors vs. mopar?
- Thread starter magnumdust
- Start date
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Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
A bump for ya. I'd like to know as well.
grimreaper
Cross Member
Install some connectors....but there probably won't be significant difference from one to the other.
I put the US Cartools on my '64 Barracuda and helped a friend build and install some made from rectangular tubing on his '64. Both were a huge improvement over no connector. I seriously doubt that in a blind comparison you could tell or feel the difference from one to the other. I like the look of the completed installation with the US Cartools version and they actually weigh slightly less than what we installed on my buddies car.
I put the US Cartools on my '64 Barracuda and helped a friend build and install some made from rectangular tubing on his '64. Both were a huge improvement over no connector. I seriously doubt that in a blind comparison you could tell or feel the difference from one to the other. I like the look of the completed installation with the US Cartools version and they actually weigh slightly less than what we installed on my buddies car.
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
Thanks Grimreaper. I have also installed the US car tool ones. I was just wondering if the metal thickness was thicker on different ones.
Mogre
Well-Known Member
I had Mopar connectors welded in last year. The car seems much more rigid on rougher roads and train tracks. The interior must be removed to weld in the US cartool units. What ever way you decide to go, do it with all wheels on the ground, not on jack stands which could flex the body. A very worthwhile upgrade IMO.
socalvaliant
Lifelong Gearhead
I am in the process of welding the US Cartool connectors on my 68 Valiant; I believe they are 11 gage (approx. 1/8 "), plenty beefy.
I like the way they give you a boxed frame rail to the floor pan; this should in theory prevent the body from twisting in the center to rear floor area.
Just be careful with welding amperage on the connector to floor pan ; floor pan is pretty thin compared to the connector...
I like the way they give you a boxed frame rail to the floor pan; this should in theory prevent the body from twisting in the center to rear floor area.
Just be careful with welding amperage on the connector to floor pan ; floor pan is pretty thin compared to the connector...
SteveAle
Well-Known Member
I have USCarTools in my Duster. Might be personal opinion, but I liked them better because you can secure the floor pan to the connector and make the whole floor pan more rigid. Just my 2 cents thou.
mechanic190
Well-Known Member
are there any advantages of making your own frame connectors and installing the going through the floor instead of welding them to the bottom of the floor?
hemi446
Well-Known Member
I have done all three types the USCarTool in my sons 67 Barracuda, The Mopar Performance bolt in connectors in my 67 Barracuda Convertible and I used the 2x2 box tubing in my 65 Dart Wagon.
By far the hardest was the USCarTool connectors they need the most work. You need to remove the complete interior and clean the bottom of the car and grind the connectors until they fit the bottom of the car correctly. then you can start welding the new connectors in.
The bolt in Mopar Performance connector didn't fit very well I needed to cut them apart and reweld them straighter and then I welded them to the frame in the front and the rear.
The box tubing was the easiest since the floors were out of the car I cut open the rear subframe so the tubing would slide in 4-5" and it lined up with the front cross member then just welded in. you do have to cut the floor were the box tubing runs into the pass compartment before the floor will lay flat.
Good Luck whatever you decide to do
By far the hardest was the USCarTool connectors they need the most work. You need to remove the complete interior and clean the bottom of the car and grind the connectors until they fit the bottom of the car correctly. then you can start welding the new connectors in.
The bolt in Mopar Performance connector didn't fit very well I needed to cut them apart and reweld them straighter and then I welded them to the frame in the front and the rear.
The box tubing was the easiest since the floors were out of the car I cut open the rear subframe so the tubing would slide in 4-5" and it lined up with the front cross member then just welded in. you do have to cut the floor were the box tubing runs into the pass compartment before the floor will lay flat.
Good Luck whatever you decide to do
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