use gasket sealer or dont use gasket sealer

[srixon4406]

I'm about ready to finish the final assembly of my slant turbo motor and my question is should I be safe and use gasket sealer and the gasket kit or should I try only the felpro gasket set
The block is totally clean of all oil and grease but I would like to do this once

What are the common problem areas that may give me fits?

Thanks all
Aaron

 

[RustyRatRod]

What specific areas are you asking about? There are only a few exceptions where you use silicone with a gasket. It is designed to be the gasket in most instances.

 

[srixon4406]

that's what I'm asking
I no that the oil pan may need some,maybe the valve cover after that I can't think of any place else?

 

[moper]

I try to limit use of silicone. Places like the corners of the pan, seams where covers and block might meet (like timing chain, block, and oil pan), and a very thin skin on cooling system gaskets, and on small V8s the ends of the intake. Otherwise that's it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I'm a little different. I don't see anything wrong with using silicone, if it's used correctly. As moper pointed out, it's a good idea to use it around coolant passages. But I usually don't use any on water pump gaskets. I like to use it around water ports in heads. I know...it's a slant. I don't like cork, though and that's one place I use silicone. To replace cork. I wouldn't use it on the valve cover, because you have to remove that for valve adjustments and I think there's a nice rubber one available. But the oil pan, I would chunk the cork in a new york minute and lay a nice neat bead of silicone in its place. I will also use it on bolts to keep them sealed if they go into a water jacket or into the crankcase or to keep them from seizing up as in exhaust bolts or studs. remember to use high temp red on exhaust fasteners. Lastly, if you run computer controlled fuel injection, make sure your sealer is sensor safe.

 

[805moparkid]

I'm a little different. I don't see anything wrong with using silicone, if it's used correctly. As moper pointed out, it's a good idea to use it around coolant passages. But I usually don't use any on water pump gaskets. I like to use it around water ports in heads. I know...it's a slant. I don't like cork, though and that's one place I use silicone. To replace cork. I wouldn't use it on the valve cover, because you have to remove that for valve adjustments and I think there's a nice rubber one available. But the oil pan, I would chunk the cork in a new york minute and lay a nice neat bead of silicone in its place. I will also use it on bolts to keep them sealed if they go into a water jacket or into the crankcase or to keep them from seizing up as in exhaust bolts or studs. remember to use high temp red on exhaust fasteners. Lastly, if you run computer controlled fuel injection, make sure your sealer is sensor safe.

as far as the V/C goes just use sealer between the cover and gasket, but not the gasket and head...

if you dont want it to leak use good RTV... gas safe... we use the locktitie stuff you can get thru summit....

 

[yooper822]

Have any of you guys tried the Anaerobic Sealers that are out there?

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

Dont rtv the head gasket UNLESS it's a steel shim..in tat case use copper coat spray on both sides.
OR if you drilled extra holes for cooling, then just skin coat around the holes edges.

the copper coat spray fro water pump gaskets/oil pan gaskets works good and applies evenly and light.

 

[moper]

Anearobics are for areas that do not have very rough surfaces, and will not have any exposure to oxygen. Normally things like transmission casing sections, stuff like that. Silicones need air to cure fully, and the normal paper and cork gaskets are porous enough for it to cure. I only use Ultra Grey, Ultraa black, or Ultra red, depending.
Stroker - I have used it in place of gaskets. but I end up needing a ton of it..lol. So I will normally just use the gaskets and silicone as "insurance". In terms of valve covers... I like the cork. I use 3M weatherstrip adhesive to glue the gasket to the clean, oil free cover surface, and then nothing on the head side. I've used the same set for two seasons before and routinely have the same ones on and off a dozen times without leaks. A Stock Eliminator racer taught me that trick. The single biggest cause of silicone leaking or breaking off and going through systems is oil on the surfaces. They must be oil free, that includes finger prints, fuel residue, carb cleaner residue, etc. I clean with brake cleaner, acetone, or laquer thinner.