Using a 66 A-100 8 3/4 in a Early A body

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64X2

64X2

Mohel at your service.
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I picked up a 8 3/4 out of a 66 A-100 Van and want to use in my 64 Valiant, I will change out the center section to a 3:55 gear, it has a 741 case. Has anyone used one of these axles, and if so any advice beyond cutting shock mounts off and spring pad relocation.
 
I think they are the same width as a "C" body 8 3/4. I bought one at a swap meet, and it is identical to the C body that I already had...You will probably need to cut it down to make it work.

Thanks,
OldMoparsRule!
 
I gave a 69 A100 8 & 3.4 and the axles to another member last summer. To fit an A Body the housing will need to be shortened. The axles are stepped at the spline end and don't have enough meat of them to shorten and re-spline them - you either need correct A Body axles for Yukon/Mosers.
 
When i ordered axles for my 8 3/4 out of a '67 van,the guy on the other end of the line told me they were the same width as E-body.dont know if that helps you or not.
 
From backing plate to backing plate it measures........53 3/8 inches, spring perches are about 47 inches.. is the pinion a different length on the van axles vs car, it looks longer.
 
64X2 said:
From backing plate to backing plate it measures........53 3/8 inches,
Click to expand...

Interesting, mine which was supposedly also out of an A100 is 56 1.2 inches from flange to flange. This is very close to the C body measurements.

Yours sounds like it is actually from an early B body.

Here is a great write up on the topic:

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/875axle.shtml

Thanks,
OldMoparsRule!
 
cast # 2070741 with the signature cast X on both sides. Any other way ID it....
 
The rear is usable it just needs narrowed a bit, it can go to stock A body width or 2" narrower than stock depending on which axles it has, some have 3" of taper and some have 4" of taper.

If you're on a budget its a great piece to start with, if you're swapping in everything new then it's nothing special. Back 12-15 years ago one of my friends was running resplined A100 axles in his 451 Dart, 11.60's on motor 10.90's on a powershot plate which is advertised 125hp, never hurt the rear but blew up 2 converters with it.
 
What are some of the things to look for when I take the rear-end apart. I am going to reuse everything, just have the housing and axles shortened. So when I pull out the center section is there specific things to look for as far as wear and tear, what can I reuse and what should be replace. I am on a budget and want to do this right yet cheap..............Also I have never taken this style axle apart, so any tear down pointers or tricks to disassembly would be appreciated...thanks in advance....
 
e-body and some c-boby axles have alot of meat on them to cut and respline i have a 66 b-body rear in my 67 dart with 15x8 with 5.5 bs 255 60 15 tires
 
Taking apart an 8 3/4 is pretty easy. First you need to remove the axle flange bolts and pull the axles out of the housing a couple 3-4 inches. The brake assembly may need to be disassembled or at least the spreader bar lifted out of the way of the axle flange. Turn the flange so the flat part is up to clear the spreader and you may get them out without dis-assembly. Next, loosen all of the center section bolts, remove all of them but the top and pry the center section loose enough to allow the fluid to drain out the bottom. When it's done draining, remove the last bolt and slide it out of the housing. Visually check the ring rear and pinion gear teeth for any signs of excessive wear or surface rust. Check to make sure that the teeth of the ring gear have a flat on the top and are not "pointed", indicating excessive wear. Hold the ring gear tight and turn the pinion gear back and forth a little bit, there should be a small amount of play, but not much. The ratio of the gearset will be stamped on the outside of the ring gear. Next, check to see if it's a suregrip or not. Can you see through the case where the spider gears are?? If so, it's an open, if not and it has a closed unit you have yourself a clutch style suregrip. If you see springs and a unit that has a slight taper at the end, it is the Auburn cone style suregrip. Keep the entire center section as clean as possible and store it so no moisture can surface rust can start to form on the gear teeth. Not that you are going to use the axles, but if you do and they have a dab of pink paint on them, they are the axles with a high nitride amount in the metal, just a little bonus. Good luck with the dis-assembly, Geof
 
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