Using an automatic housing with a manual flywheel? Can it be done?

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Dodge73Dart

Dodge73Dart

1973 Dodge Dart Sport restoration
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I am in the process of building a run stand for a 73 Dart with Automatic transmission.318 engine.
I don’t want to attach my automatic transmission to it yet.
I do have an old gutted out automatic 904 transmission casing that fits.
Does anyone know of a flywheel that will match up to the starter and this case?
In this way I can just find an old flywheel to use to start the engine.

Thanks.

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Yes, 318 Flywheel 130 tooth.

Flywheel bolts to the crank, starter bolts into the 904 empty housing.

Did the same thing with a fresh 383, bolted on a 130 tooth flywheel. Then bolted up a 727 transmission without the torque converter just to hold the starter during break in.

Had it blocked up, with a radiator, and started it up on the floor.

That way we were not running the transmission front pump and torque converter while first start breaking in the cam on a tight engine.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
Dodge73Dart said:
This is for a big block. I don’t think they have one for SB 318.
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Well God forbid we modify anything. I plan on gettin one for my slant 6 and I promise you 20 minutes or less after it arrives, it'll fit. lol
 
as long as the starter engages the teeth on the flywheel youd have to bolt it up and check...its really about the location of the starter in relation to the flywheel /torque converter teeth and the engagement.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well God forbid we modify anything. I plan on gettin one for my slant 6 and I promise you 20 minutes or less after it arrives, it'll fit. lol
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No disrespect meant but if I’m going to pay for a part I prefer not to have to modify it. Yes sometimes we have no other option.
Thank for the suggestion.
 
Dodge73Dart said:
No disrespect meant but if I’m going to pay for a part I prefer not to have to modify it. Yes sometimes we have no other option.
Thank for the suggestion.
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Suit yourself. You won't find a bellhousing for under 30 bucks. Was just trying to save you some dough.
 
If you can do ANY fabrication, AKA operate a drill and a hacksaw, you an MAKE a starter mount "not that hard." Get some plate steel, say, 1/4" but make sure it will clear the flywheel first. Trial fit the starter in the block and make a gusset out of plate. Just drill it to fit, cut and hack. I use the mid plate out of a scattershield.

I do not have any provision for supporting the starter nose, but figure the few seconds of crank time, it's worth the gamble, and use an old starter just to be sure. So far I've done this on maybe 5 used engines, and have not broken a starter yet.

Some guys have even torched up an old torque converter so all that's left is the front face and starter rear.
 
67Dart273 said:
If you can do ANY fabrication, AKA operate a drill and a hacksaw, you an MAKE a starter mount "not that hard." Get some plate steel, say, 1/4" but make sure it will clear the flywheel first. Trial fit the starter in the block and make a gusset out of plate. Just drill it to fit, cut and hack. I use the mid plate out of a scattershield.

I do not have any provision for supporting the starter nose, but figure the few seconds of crank time, it's worth the gamble, and use an old starter just to be sure. So far I've done this on maybe 5 used engines, and have not broken a starter yet.

Some guys have even torched up an old torque converter so all that's left is the front face and starter rear.
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That's why I linked to the 24 buck one. It will support the nose and all he'd have to do is drill new holes in the right places.
 
Dodge73Dart said:
I have an automatic housing I can use. Just need the flywheel now.
I’ll put out some local feelers tomorrow.
Thanks again for the info.
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That should work! I agree, if you already have it, use it!
 
67Dart273 said:
If you can do ANY fabrication, AKA operate a drill and a hacksaw, you an MAKE a starter mount "not that hard." Get some plate steel, say, 1/4" but make sure it will clear the flywheel first. Trial fit the starter in the block and make a gusset out of plate. Just drill it to fit, cut and hack. I use the mid plate out of a scattershield.

I do not have any provision for supporting the starter nose, but figure the few seconds of crank time, it's worth the gamble, and use an old starter just to be sure. So far I've done this on maybe 5 used engines, and have not broken a starter yet.

Some guys have even torched up an old torque converter so all that's left is the front face and starter rear.
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I think Nicks garage on YT operates similar
 

thesiren74 said:
just bolt a torque converter to a flexplate with the gutted housing.
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yup I think it comes down to is the ring gear in the same place relative to the starter gear at first one would think it should be but keep in mind the starter bolts to the bell housing of a 4 speed and to the bell housing of an auto trans. the variable is the 2 different bellhousings. But in short you wont know till you try it. Cheapest thing is to do the plate steel recommendation I think a la Nicks garage . You could go on YT and ask Nick in the comments he may respond IDK.
 
A 130 tooth flywheel is going to be in the same place as a 130 tooth ring gear on a torque converter. The centerline remains the same with either one. I wouldn't trust a flex plate holding a gutted or intact torque converter on a run stand for 2 seconds. A flex plate is gonna do just what it's name implies.....FLEX. With no rear support of the converter into a pump, it's going to wobble like a drunk girl coming out of a bar at 2 am. A flywheel is solid and will stay the same and not wobble.
 
Dodge73Dart said:
I have an automatic housing I can use. Just need the flywheel now.
I’ll put out some local feelers tomorrow.
Thanks again for the info.
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You're on the right track, any neutral-balance SB 130 tooth flywheel will do it, just make sure to get the correct crank cap screws to go with it. There have been a number of old OE 'wheels advertised here in the Mechanical Parts for Sale forum, do a search, & put out feelers in whatever network of gearheads You have for sure. With the number of high torque stroker builds these days, most won't(& SHOULDN'T) use an old stocker, but perfect for Your purpose.
 
JDMopar said:
A 130 tooth flywheel is going to be in the same place as a 130 tooth ring gear on a torque converter. The centerline remains the same with either one. I wouldn't trust a flex plate holding a gutted or intact torque converter on a run stand for 2 seconds. A flex plate is gonna do just what it's name implies.....FLEX. With no rear support of the converter into a pump, it's going to wobble like a drunk girl coming out of a bar at 2 am. A flywheel is solid and will stay the same and not wobble.
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Exactly why I’m leaning towards a flywheel. Still trying to find one locally.
 
JDMopar said:
A 130 tooth flywheel is going to be in the same place as a 130 tooth ring gear on a torque converter. The centerline remains the same with either one. I wouldn't trust a flex plate holding a gutted or intact torque converter on a run stand for 2 seconds. A flex plate is gonna do just what it's name implies.....FLEX. With no rear support of the converter into a pump, it's going to wobble like a drunk girl coming out of a bar at 2 am. A flywheel is solid and will stay the same and not wobble.
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Yeah if it's full.
 
Dodge73Dart said:
I’m about 1 hour 30 minutes from there.
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Oh, ok. Reason I asked, a guy that sells a lot of Mopar stuff at Mopars at The Rock lives in Lillington and might have a neutral balance 130 tooth flywheel he'd sell reasonable. Hour and a half is a pretty good haul though, unless he'd about give it away. :(
 
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