Weather Stripping

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cuda12

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Hey all, well rain season hit us the other day. My son said some of his stuff in the trunk got wet therefore I want to replace all the weather stripping on the car especially the trunk. Having never done this I could use some help.

Looking on Yearone they have the trunk seal for $43.95.
Looking at Paddock parts they have it for $19.95.

My questions is why such a huge difference? Is there a difference in quality of the material?

In addition: they also have the 3m glue/adhesive, which I think I can pick up elsewhere cheaper however they recommended also two other products. A 3M Spray Lube, for ease of putting the new material on), and a 3M Release agent, (for helping to remove the old material and all contaminants). Are these MUST HAVE products to complete this job?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Only help I can give is to tell you to get the black weatherstrip adhesive. If it shows it will blend in with the weatherstripping. The other stuff is kind of a snot yellow.
 
i bought mine from this guy
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1964...014QQitemZ330176369120QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

price is good and the seal fit and there was plenty of length. i wont buy from year one if i dont have to, way high on shipping
if the paint under the seal isnt rusting, i would clean it up with some solvent and then scuff it with some steel wool or a scotch brite pad.
all you need is the black 3m stuff and some xylene to clean up after the glue dries. the xylene wont soften the paint like acetone
 
Hey all, well rain season hit us the other day. My son said some of his stuff in the trunk got wet therefore I want to replace all the weather stripping on the car especially the trunk. Having never done this I could use some help.

Looking on Yearone they have the trunk seal for $43.95.
Looking at Paddock parts they have it for $19.95.

My questions is why such a huge difference? Is there a difference in quality of the material?

In addition: they also have the 3m glue/adhesive, which I think I can pick up elsewhere cheaper however they recommended also two other products. A 3M Spray Lube, for ease of putting the new material on), and a 3M Release agent, (for helping to remove the old material and all contaminants). Are these MUST HAVE products to complete this job?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I avoid using any spray on stuff now that my car has been restored. The overspray (glue, tire shine, etc) on anything isn't worth the 'ease' factor of applying the product.
 
Thank you 340Duster brother :) Ok well I ordered all the weatherstripping, got the 3M weatherstripping adhesive a can of xylene and some scoth guard scrubbing pads. While I was at it I ordered a new glovebox liner, set of seatbelts, new window washer pump, some retainer nuts to attach the driver side "Swinger" emblem, a 360 4 barrel decal to dress up the air filter lid :P , a heater hose bracket, and some new heater ducts for the heater/defroster. Should keep me busy for awhile when the parts come in :)

Anyone know a good site with instructions and pictures on how to properly remove, prepare and install the trunk weatherstripping?

Thanks, J.P.
 
Xylene/xylol are great for removing adhesive and such. Just make sure the doors open, because not only will you get a little "dizzy", you'll end up with a real bad tummy ache :sad3:
 
Thanks OneOfMany :) I'll be doing the work in the open air but will also make note not to be sniffing that stuff if at all possible :)
 
the instructions are on the tube. basically spread the glue on the rubber and on the trunk surface and let tack up then work your way around with the weatherstrip. an extra set of hands might be a good thing. where the two ends butt together, cover that with glue also. i put the seam on the window side of the trunk just to keep it from getting snagged by something.
use the xylene/xylol for cleaning extra glue after letting it dry for a couple of days. also DONT shut the lid for maybe 6-8 hours, it will squeeze the seal and push it away from where you want it.
 
Great advice Betty thank you! See? Good thing Ia sked because I was thinking, install, shut the lid, that will help keep it down in PRECISELY the place it needs to be. :)

Ok so my plan is to: remove old rubber by hand. Prep the area by removing all contaminats by rubbing area with xylene, then drying throuroughly, then roughing up the area with sotch brite pads. Then apply glue to rubber stripping and the trunk lip/metal and hold in place securely with as many ahnds available?

Betty? The one on there has the splice at the rear, in the middle, by the trunk lock hatch mechanism. But I will try your advice. Thanks.
 

The 3M is good stuff. Used it when I worked at the dealer. BUT, watch out as it strings a bit and goes everywhere if you are not careful. Don't gob it on or it will be mushing out all over.

Agree with use the black at the yellow is just too obvious.

When we used to do a seal repair etc. we used to use painters tape or similar low stick stuff to hold the seal right were we wanted it until it dried. If we ran into a trouble spot that would not conform and stay in the shape we wanted we would use the 3M and tape, but also put a little dot of super glue down just to hold it snug to the curve while the proper 3M dried. Not sure if it was the best thing in the world to do, but once you've experienced a seal sliding and smearing the 3M everywhere.....

Good advise on not closing the lid. Same for doors etc. Let the tape hold it in place. Preference on the seal end, but we cut them slightly long and then compressed them and then butted them together so you get a tight seal at the join. A dab of the glue to hold it together, don't go mad with it, and you are set. The bit extra length compressed in (not talking about and extra foot here, but a smidge) will also help when the seal gets a bit older and shrinks a bit. Join will stay true longer. That was the theory behind why we did it anyway.

Best of luck.

Cheers
 
put the seam in the rear center otherwise it will leak. i just remove the old seal with a razor blade, clean with mineral spirts and install the new seal.
 
thanks Ted! Yes the old one has the seam at the trunk key opening so I'mma gonna mark it there and do the new seam there also. Mineral spirits eh? And shopping for a good razor knife is next, thanks. Parts should be here any day now.
 
Sad part is the original design seal is a piece of crap. The later seal design of hollow tube on a U shaped channel fits right on with no glue required. High pressure car wash wont put water in my trunk and the seal from doorway of a Ford pickup cost me 5 bucks at a junk yard.
 
Hey all, removed the old seal yesterday. I used the thinner to remove the old glue and on the right side geesh some of the paint came off to bare metal. I mean clean off down to shiney new metal. (Right where those numbers are stamped on the lip/edge). (In fact I have numbers stamped on both sides, dont know what they mean though). I'm figureing that aint good. Before I lay the glue and attempt to lay the rubber seal should I get a "can" of "hemi orange" paint and touch that area up? Or will it be ok and just lay the rubber and seal? How long should the spray paint touch up, if required, have to dry before I can lay on the glue and rubber seal?

Thanks, Joe
 
Heres two pics to show what I mean.

IMG_2612.JPG


IMG_2613.JPG
 
Guys I'm running out of daylight. Anyone have an answer? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Joe
 
Guys I'm running out of daylight. Anyone have an answer? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Joe

Putting some paint (any color) would be much better then leaving bare and covering with glue and weatherstripping. If you've got a color that close to HEMI orange then use that since it's going to be difficult to pick up the difference with the weatherstripping covering 98% of the flat surface.
 
I don't like the idea of leaving the metal bare under the seal. Asking for moisture to collect there & cause rust. I'd touch it up with something, but I don't think it'll have time to cure properly if you glue the seal on it now. Afraid the adhesive would lift the paint. Maybe if you use laquer, it dries faster, maybe a fast dry primer. Hope somebody else rings in here with a suggestion.
 
Thanks guys much appreciated. I decided to postpone moving forward with the stripping. I got a can of grey primer that I used to coat it with and then I'm gonna let it dry overnight. Tomorrow hit it with a can of Hemi orange I have, over the grey primer. Let dry overnight. Tuesday or Wednesday I'll begin applying the weatherstripping. I moved onto a few other unfinished and or needed tasks. I was able to reconnect the slider arm on the temp console, dad-gum cotter pin fell out so that works now. Installed a new wiper/washer motor and no leaks :) Its a MIRACLE! LOL! Simple things that probably would take about 30 mins for you experienced guys takes me about 3 to 6 hours to do. I've never been much of a mechanic but I'm learning, funny thing is I never ahd a desire to, (always took it to a mechanic), but its kinda fun and my son and I are enjoying some quality time learning together. I cant tell you how valuable your suggestions, how-tos, and advice are to us, thanks again gents!

Joe
 
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