Weird noise after 4 speed install

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I have that same cam in my Duster and it will idle pretty smooth, 700 rpms pulling around 16 in/hg.
This is with a carburetor.
 
sireland67 said:
I have that same cam in my Duster and it will idle pretty smooth, 700 rpms pulling around 16 in/hg.
This is with a carburetor.
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Really? I'm only getting 11 at 800. I looked for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. I just don't know what else to do at this point.
 
mopar head said:
Once you get it smoothed out do you think that racket in the back end will disappear?
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I am going to put the driveline back in and double check, but I'm almost certain it will, just based on the shake and how it transmits down the drivetrain. I started a thread in the engine forum.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Probably been asked...but...Did you degree the cam when you installed it?
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I did degree it. I bought a new cloyes billet timing chain set with the 10 key way. When I degreed it it came out to exactly what the cam card said, so I left it dot to dot. I'll get the cam card later today.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Really? I'm only getting 11 at 800. I looked for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. I just don't know what else to do at this point.
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Might have to with with compression and elevation.
 
I used the American Powertrain Hydramax bearing kit in my Duster. Set the proper air gap and after bleeding and driving my bearing now rides on my diaphragm clutch fingers. Seems to be a common issue with these kits.
 
E Satterfield said:
I used the American Powertrain Hydramax bearing kit in my Duster. Set the proper air gap and after bleeding and driving my bearing now rides on my diaphragm clutch fingers. Seems to be a common issue with these kits.
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most hydrolic throwout bearings need be bled then set your gap!
 
E Satterfield said:
I used the American Powertrain Hydramax bearing kit in my Duster. Set the proper air gap and after bleeding and driving my bearing now rides on my diaphragm clutch fingers. Seems to be a common issue with these kits.
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I called the company that I got mine from and they said the air gap is just so you don't over extend the bearing on initial stroke of the pedal. The bearing rides on the fingers is how they were designed.
 
According to American Power. Their bearing is supplied pre-bled so it’s at its normal travel distance on the retainer. Idk I followed the instructions to the letter and also called them because the number of supplied shims would not get it into spec and they were happy to sell me another spacer/retainer for a Ford application. I’ve installed one other which is a Ram product in a 56 Chevy and it doesn’t ride on the fingers. Close but not dragging. Hydraulic release bearings are as new to me as working on Mopars. 40 years with GM and 2 years in the Mopar world. Late bloomer I guess.
 
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E Satterfield said:
According to American Power. Their bearing is supplied pre-bled so it’s at its normal travel distance on the retainer. Idk I followed the instructions to the letter and also called them because the number of supplied shims would not get it into spec and they were happy to sell me another spacer/retainer for a Ford application. I’ve installed one other which is a Ram product in a 56 Chevy and it doesn’t ride on the fingers. Close but not dragging. Hydraulic release bearings are as new to me as working on Mopars. 40 years with GM and 2 years in the Mopar world. Late bloomer I guess.
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Interesting. Could be just a difference in manufacturing? I'm using a hydromax sold by Eastside motorsports.
 
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