Welding rear axle spring pads for handling

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ir3333

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I am welding spring perches on an A body rear axle and remember reading somewhere that the rear springs should tilt in a tiny amount for improved handling ( 1/8" per side? )or should they be perfectly vertical when installed?
 
Straight on a "A" body, they are actually angled some on "E" body's. You would notice no real difference in my opinion on your car.
 
i dont know about "handling" but i know you will be changing pinion angle so be careful.
 
Straight on a "A" body, they are actually angled some on "E" body's. You would notice no real difference in my opinion on your car.

as i suspected...i have seen some welded from the factory out 1/4" from one side to the other.
 
i dont know about "handling" but i know you will be changing pinion angle so be careful.

i am not changing the angle,just the distance between the springs side to side.
stock i think is 43" i was reading somewhere that narrowing them to 42 3/4" was an option.
..and i know guys who have used stock B body axles on A bodies that measure 44 1/2 between
spring pads and they seemed to work o.k.This would push the springs out 3/4 inch or more on the axle.
 
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Pushing Springs out to fit the 43" center to center is common, but not the best idea. ANYTHING you do that puts a suspension in a bind, is bad.
 
Pushing Springs out to fit the 43" center to center is common, but not the best idea. ANYTHING you do that puts a suspension in a bind, is bad.

it was a B body axel with the perches at 44 1/2" i think,used on an A body...so the springs were pushed out 3/4" or so further on each side than the stock A body 43" width.
Like i said it seemed to work o.k, but there must have been some binding as you suggest.
 
Stock B-body is 44" center to center on the perches. Yes, people have stretched the springs apart on their A-bodies and just used B body rear axles, but that forces the spring out of alignment with the spring eyes and shackles, putting a side load on both. Does is "work"? I suppose. It'll trash the spring eye and shackle bushings and cause binding in the spring action, which is already a draw back with leafs and shackles. And in that case you're actually reducing your tire clearance to the springs, so, you're not doing yourself any favors.

The 3/4" MP offset kit does a little of the same thing, the front hangers are offset a 1/2" (that's all the room there is to the frame) but the shackles are offset 3/4", and if you weld the perches at 41.5" c-c you're placing a side load on the spring eye bushings. In that case I suppose you could angle the perches slightly front to back to make the perch more parallel to the spring again to take some binding off the spring itself, but the front hanger is still drilled straight across so the load is still put on the bushing. The hanger is set up to be perpendicular to the spring, so if the spring sits at an angle it has to come from the bushing.

E-body springs are not perpendicular to the axle, they sit at an angle front to rear (the distance c-c on the hangers is smaller than the c-c distance on the shackles). That was done for some "turn in" advantage, gets into suspension geometry and how everything reacts when it's loaded. But it's important to note that they were designed to be that way, meaning, even though the springs sit at an angle all of the hardware is either parallel or perpendicular, the angle doesn't come from side loading the bushings, it comes from how everything is mounted to the frame. The rear frame rails on the E-bodies are actually splayed, they're not parallel to each other.
 
Tx 72...Your experience is always helpful.
..that means a B body axel would spread the A body springs 1/2" per side.
 
Correct, the pre-'71 B-body rear axles with the perches in the stock location would spread the springs a 1/2" per side on an A body. And reduce tire clearance.

I've heard of guys slotting the center hole on the perches another 1/4" or so to limit some of the side loading on the springs. Of course then the spring doesn't sit centered on the perch. It just seems like a lot of work to do it wrong.

Moving the spring perches isn't that hard. It shouldn't even cost all that much if you can't do it yourself. Plus, if you're moving the perches already, it's a great time to do a 1/2" spring offset to maximize your tire clearance with the stock wheel tubs. That's what I did, my Duster has a 68-70 B-body 8 3/4 with a 1/2" offset, perches are 42" c-c.
 
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