What are the most likely Donor vehicles for the A 500 4 speed automatic?

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Knowing that the more robust girth of the transmission and lack of the proper mount don't allow for the use of a factory floor shifter, I probably would skip these transmissions for a car with a floor shifter. If someone makes a cable operated conversion that allows the use of a factory shifter and not some fancy-bling type B & M shifter, that would be great.
Floor shifter just needs a little fabricating to work.. Girth? They fit in an E body or a 71-72 B body without cutting the body... I doubt that's true on an A body but it's not that big of a deal... I wouldn't want to cut on a real 340 car but 318 or slant 6... Let the fun begin....
 
Knowing that the more robust girth of the transmission and lack of the proper mount don't allow for the use of a factory floor shifter, I probably would skip these transmissions for a car with a floor shifter. If someone makes a cable operated conversion that allows the use of a factory shifter and not some fancy-bling type B & M shifter, that would be great.
I was able to make a B&M shifter cable work with the slap stick shifter in my challenger.
 
And since I'm currently putting a 46 RH in a 340 e body I'm gonna add a little info someone might be able to use...

So on this install the Torsion bar crossmember winds up blocking the access to the speedometer cable connection....

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So, my solution is to slot the motor mount brackets and shift the motor rearward 3/8" which gives just enough clearance to fit the cable...

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I'll be adding a few more photos over the next couple days...
 
That won't affect the throttle cable nor the kickdown since it uses a cable too, right? Plenty of room to the firewall for the bell housing. It might even improve exhaust pipe clearance off of the manifolds. More fan clearance from the radiator is good.
It will be interesting to see how this works in my 4 door once I get moving on the project...

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We spoke of switches to enable the lockup converter and overdrive. I'm curious if anyone chooses to pair the two together so they always work in tandem.
 
That won't affect the throttle cable nor the kickdown since it uses a cable too, right? Plenty of room to the firewall for the bell housing. It might even improve exhaust pipe clearance off of the manifolds. More fan clearance from the radiator is good.
It will be interesting to see how this works in my 4 door once I get moving on the project...

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We spoke of switches to enable the lockup converter and overdrive. I'm curious if anyone chooses to pair the two together so they always work in tandem.
On page three I posted what is IMO the best option... That said if you want to just use one switch it will work, but engaging O/D at the same time you lock the convertor makes for a pretty big RPM drop...
 
Maybe someone mentioned it and I missed it BUT regarding the manual toggle switch for lockup and overdrive, do these stay engaged as you slow down below a certain speed? I'd think that as you get below say...45 mph, the OD would disengage.

I tested in on a 518 retrofit and od didnt disengage until around 25mph. My 518 didnt have lock up converter so I dont know about that part. Either way i wouldnt recommend leaving them on that long. Basically my od was for hwy and was left off all the time for in town driving.
I have thought about using a B&M shifter with a line lock button on the shifter knob to control both both on the next one.

I mentioned the idea of running the lockup and overdrive together....

On page three I posted what is IMO the best option... That said if you want to just use one switch it will work, but engaging O/D at the same time you lock the convertor makes for a pretty big RPM drop...

If you are referring to post #38, THAT is a lot to go through. I'm going to need some assistance wading through that!


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I appreciate the help but try to not be a burden to you.
If I knew as much as you, my ego would be so big I'd need a convertible to get around.
 

So, a few more photos...
First the speedo cable clearance after moving the engine/trans back 3/8"

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Next, the fabricated shifter bracket that allows the floor shifter to work with the O/D trans...

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And the fittings/hose that attach to the governor port in the case...

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And todays final picture, the two Hobbs switches that sense governor pressure & manifold vacuum to control the shift into O/D.... I had the vacuum switch so rather than use a mechanical WOT switch I'm reading manifold vacuum & O/D will kick out when manifold vacuum falls below 2 in/hg

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