What bolt for this timing cover hole?

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What are you guys using for this bolt? Passenger side SB timing chain cover, newer 70+ model. Even with the gasket in place, the water pump snout sits right on top of the bolt head and can not be installed flush to the cover's surface. Is there a bolt with a really thin head-cap I should be using? I bought a set of stainless hex type box kit, but the hex heads are way too tall also for this one little hole. Grind it down? Grind down the corresponding side of the water pump snout? I'd rather not grind anything. Thanks!
 

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useing the stock bolts for water pump.its not a thinner bolthead .that is the one bolt i would forget to put in and water would just pour out when you filled the rad.
 
It takes a regular bolt. Some of the bolts used a washer...that one didn't. It's a very tight fit but it should work as long as you don't use a washer.
 
useing the stock bolts for water pump.its not a thinner bolthead .that is the one bolt i would forget to put in and water would just pour out when you filled the rad.


:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol: BWAHAHAHAH! My dad and I just did this putting my 360 back together, I even picked up the chrome bolt we have that came with the rest of the dress up kit and my dad says I have no idea where you got that bolt from, we threw it on the bench and 30 min later coolant is all over the ground, we think its the water pump, gaskets all this crap, nope we left that FRICKING bolt out, so off comes the front of the motor again to put that damn bolt in!!!!!
 
useing the stock bolts for water pump.its not a thinner bolthead .that is the one bolt i would forget to put in and water would just pour out when you filled the rad.

Awesome! thank you to everybody for the ideas and feedback. An oh yeah, that thing threads straight into the water jacket. No bolt= mini Niagara falls coming out of that thing I'm sure.
 
Are you using an aluminum pump on a 69 and earlier timing cover? This cover could be for a cast iron pump which has the water neck on the opposite side. The later covers have a shorter boss. You could just mill the boss down on the cover you have. But are the timing marks on the correct side?
 
Are you using an aluminum pump on a 69 and earlier timing cover? This cover could be for a cast iron pump which has the water neck on the opposite side. The later covers have a shorter boss. You could just mill the boss down on the cover you have. But are the timing marks on the correct side?

It's a later cover. Timing marks on drivers side. Thx!
 
You can still mill the boss down. It should have a washer on it to keep the bolt from digging into the aluminum.
 
That boss didn't use a washer from the factory. There was no room for it. Sure, you can grind on the cover and put a washer on it if you want to.
 
That boss didn't use a washer from the factory. There was no room for it. Sure, you can grind on the cover and put a washer on it if you want to.

Maybe you might grind on it. I didn't say that. Milling is a lot different than grinding. You can get an end mill that will fit in a regular drill press or even a hand held drill for under 5 bucks from harbor freight. I dismiss what the factory did there if they omitted a washer. Between a steel bolt and soft aluminum, there should be a washer, IMO. I ain't the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I ain't the dullest one either. I would put a washer there some kinda how.
 
I haven't had any issues using a regular bolt with a thin flat washer. It's real close but works fine. You can't see that bolt when everything's assembled so just use a regular bolt, not the fancy hex head bolt.
 
I just looked at an engine I had on the stand, and it has a standard bolt, with a washer. It looked to have at least .125" of clearance.
I know for a fact the water pump is a Advanced Auto replacement, so maybe it is the angle of the pump outlet to the bottom radiator hose.

Also use sealant on all the bolts to prevent leaks and the bolts down low that hold the power steering bracket to the timing chain cover are also in coolent.
 
I ended up filing down th head of the stainless hex bolt to get clearance. I didn't want to deface the timing cover. Some guy a hundred years from now doing a concourse resto will thank me.
 
I've ran into that issue a few times. Like Rob mentioned, I used a counterbore bit on a mill, and also a drill press. I usually take about .1875'' of material away. seems to do the trick. I've done this on 3 timing covers with zero issues. I think they should all be done like this. lol
 
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