What Carb for Poly Stroker
- Thread starter 66 Sat
- Start date
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To remove m/rods: loosen piston cover screws about 2 turns, swivel enough so that piston + spring come out. There is a small spring that hooks the m/rod onto the piston. Do not lose it!
With top back on, gently wiggle the rods until they go into the jets & then tighten the cover screws.
With top back on, gently wiggle the rods until they go into the jets & then tighten the cover screws.
Hmm bit late now...
There's no mention of removing them in the instructions. I was careful when I put the top back on to make sure they didn't foul on anything and the top went on with no resistance so might be ok? Do you think I should remove the top again and check if they are bent?
There's no mention of removing them in the instructions. I was careful when I put the top back on to make sure they didn't foul on anything and the top went on with no resistance so might be ok? Do you think I should remove the top again and check if they are bent?
Yeah. They are extremely difficult to get into the jets being installed in the carburetor top.
I wouldn't remove the top though. I would just remove the metering rods and make sure they aren't bent. You may have gotten luck. I have a time or two, but I always take them off now.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
The bending tabs is the method for all Carter design and Rochester carbs. Metal fatigue from bending only comes into play with repeated bending. You set or check the float level and drop.and forget it until next time you have the cover off again. Pretty much guarantee you just check the measurements. If you have to replace the needle and seat you may need to tweek the float level. Drop should be OK.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
When you twist the m rod covers out of the way, keep a finger over the piston well to prevet losing a spring. These springs are a tuning component that works against manifold vacuum to adjust when the metering rods come up out of the primary jets to enrichen the mixture for power.
On Holley style carbs you have a range of power valves that give more fuel when manifold vacuum drops below its set point.
For the Carter /Edelbrock carbs you get a few pairs in the calibration kit, or you can order individually. They are color coded so you can determine the "hg they open at like Holley poer valves are stamped with a number.
Obviously a learning curve moving from modular style carbs. Once you get the tuning set it will stay in tune and not leak. If atmospheric conditions change a bunch, just remove the air filter housing and the power piston covers enough to swing asside and lift the piston and metering rod out. Just be careful.to hold a finger over as you swing the cover out of the way. Should only take 2 turns on the screws to let the cover swing out of the way. If you do not remove the screws they can not fall into the manifold.
In the box is an owners manual with a graph for tuning and points are numbered. Then you look to a chart and that will show the jets, metering rods and springs to attain that tune. Once you get it tuned, a metering rod change is probably all that is required.
Ok thanks everyone. I must have been lucky as the metering rods are perfectly straight.
Hopefully the spacer arrives today and I can install it, but of course I'm overwhelmed with work this week so might not have the time, and the weekend is chockers as well, just typical.
Hopefully the spacer arrives today and I can install it, but of course I'm overwhelmed with work this week so might not have the time, and the weekend is chockers as well, just typical.
The thin gasket either side of the spacer. If it is a 4 hole, I would recommend remove the 4 hole section & making it an 'open' gasket.
Reason is: a backfire might blow out the thin section between the t/bores.
Removing the above will not cause any problems or change in operation.
Reason is: a backfire might blow out the thin section between the t/bores.
Removing the above will not cause any problems or change in operation.
I installed the carb this morning. It started and ran nicely but only got to take it up the street and back before a huge summer storm hit.
I'll take it out in the morning for a proper run and make any adjustments I need to.
Next week I want to get some aluminium fuel line to replace the long rubber section.
I'll take it out in the morning for a proper run and make any adjustments I need to.
Next week I want to get some aluminium fuel line to replace the long rubber section.
James Clews
Well-Known Member
Bewy! When you and I raced in the mid seventies a mate had a 340 charger that I got to meet him after I repaired his 340 charger after hitting a telegraph pole. That car ran 14.4 sec qtrs and the only modification from std was dual exhausts as from the factory they had small single exhaust. My 351 Cleveland ex cop cars sounded great with their factory twin exhausts but could only manage 16.1 sec qtrs and would get horriffic gas milage. Sorry to hear you do not like vegemite, does this mean you are not a true Aussie? And yes our toilets flush so much better than any toilets I have used around the world!
James Clews
Well-Known Member
Thats funny! I think those Kangaroos are one of the dumbest animals on the planet!
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
That only requires pheremones and a stiffy.
Well I've been driving for 2 days now with the new carb and I'm happy with it but surprised as well.
I was expecting great low speed, part throttle response with the smaller primaries, but it's no different to the Holley. However, give it the full beans and it's definitely got more torque. On the first run yesterday I punched it on the highway in D at about 60mph and after a momentary bog it took it off so fast I thought it had kickdowned into 2nd.
Today I did a few short runs of about 10 miles after fiddling with the accelerator pump arm (putting it back to the center hole from the leanest setting I did have). Not much difference, so I put it back to the leanest hole again when I got home and tightened the secondary flap screw slightly. Haven't tested this change yet.
This is basically "out of the box" with only my rudimentary adjustments during some very hot (95-100° weather), so it's clearly got more to give.
One big plus - on both my Holleys if I got on the throttle heavy I would always smell the engine in the cabin.
With this Edelbrock, I can go full throttle and no smell at all.
I was expecting great low speed, part throttle response with the smaller primaries, but it's no different to the Holley. However, give it the full beans and it's definitely got more torque. On the first run yesterday I punched it on the highway in D at about 60mph and after a momentary bog it took it off so fast I thought it had kickdowned into 2nd.
Today I did a few short runs of about 10 miles after fiddling with the accelerator pump arm (putting it back to the center hole from the leanest setting I did have). Not much difference, so I put it back to the leanest hole again when I got home and tightened the secondary flap screw slightly. Haven't tested this change yet.
This is basically "out of the box" with only my rudimentary adjustments during some very hot (95-100° weather), so it's clearly got more to give.
One big plus - on both my Holleys if I got on the throttle heavy I would always smell the engine in the cabin.
With this Edelbrock, I can go full throttle and no smell at all.
Is barbeque sause good on kangaroo meat?
Only if it has more kick than the 'roo,...
66 Sat.
Tuning suggestions:
- verify that the acc pump works by watching for a fuel stream while actuating the throttle.
- the bog. Tune the primaries first; disconnect the pri/sec connecting link at the pri shaft & just let the link hang.
- best done in top gear. Accelerate with WOT to about 4000 rpm or higher. Then, lift off the throttle to about 7/8 throttle. If car slows down, jetting is close. If car speeds up, main jets are too small [ lean ]. Connect sec & repeat test.
Tuning suggestions:
- verify that the acc pump works by watching for a fuel stream while actuating the throttle.
- the bog. Tune the primaries first; disconnect the pri/sec connecting link at the pri shaft & just let the link hang.
- best done in top gear. Accelerate with WOT to about 4000 rpm or higher. Then, lift off the throttle to about 7/8 throttle. If car slows down, jetting is close. If car speeds up, main jets are too small [ lean ]. Connect sec & repeat test.
So what I'm reading is roos are pretty much worthless.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
Must be like Sandhill Cranes. I had mentioned a field east of Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada where Sandhill Cranes stop.yearly during their migration. A whole 1/4 section moving with them searching for throwover grain kernals. An indigenous fellow was standing there and said, "you can boil those useless things gor three days and they are still too tough to eat".
I checked the accelerator pump and it works, even squirt both sides.
Haven't done the other test yet, will report back when I get there.
More street driving impressions, car feels slightly stronger in full throttle applications but weaker than the Holley in general loafing around. Not what I was expecting at all, must be a tuning issue.
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