What do you guys think of oil type rust inhibitors?

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Wally-T

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Hi again folks. Well it looks like I got taken for a ride when I bought this 64 Valiant. Got it last fall with what was supposed to be 2 year old paint. It sure was pretty except for the old convertible top. Anyway rust is popping out in various places now and I can't afford to have it done properly at this time so I'm going to have it sprayed with Rust Check or Krown Rust Control. They're the only ones near me. I'm going to spray it with something no matter what but I thought I'd see what kind of responses I might get from you guys. Any good results out there? How about bad results? I know it make a heck of a mess but one good thing is, it smells good LOL.
Look forward to hearing back.
Thanks, Wally
 
Canuck tire carries a few things that will slow it down. I buy rust convertor,highly reccomended by Rick at old time garage. He applies it to the backside of every panel he replaces. I usually buy a case of it. Spray wherever i can.
 
What you do to that frame depends if you prime and paint it and with what. One thing to spray stuff on the inside of panels and another if it is actually primed/painted.
 
The rust convertor if i understand correctly will turn the rust black,forming iron oxide. Prime/paint over it. Have to follow directions on the can.
 
I've used Rust-X. Works like Rust Converter, brush or spray it on, can be used as a primer or paint over it.

I would hit the rust with a wire wheel or wire brush first though, then make my application. Seems to work.

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What you do to that frame depends if you prime and paint it and with what. One thing to spray stuff on the inside of panels and another if it is actually primed/painted.
 
The rust convertor if i understand correctly will turn the rust black,forming iron oxide. Prime/paint over it. Have to follow directions on the can.
If that's Ospho (phosphoric acid) you also need to neutralize it after it dries with a baking soda solution before you paint.
 
As for the oil type of rust deterrent, I bet every time you have to work on the car, that oily stuff will get all over you.
 
If that's Ospho (phosphoric acid) you also need to neutralize it after it dries with a baking soda solution before you paint.
Be aware that some epoxy primers or enamels etc can react to the Ospho. I apply a second set coat and let it sit some but NOT begin to dry and neutralize with water. You cold treat metal with the Ospho and prime and paint and a reaction could occur months later. I like the stuff but beware. There are products that "coat" the rust making it turn into supposed not rust but something???? If I can not grind something and it be steel I don't ant to put paint on it!!!!
I have used products from DuPont years ago on flash rusted metal as a prep worked well but too darn expensive.
Best place for Ospho for me is pitted metal.
 
Hi again folks. Well it looks like I got taken for a ride when I bought this 64 Valiant. Got it last fall with what was supposed to be 2 year old paint. It sure was pretty except for the old convertible top. Anyway rust is popping out in various places now and I can't afford to have it done properly at this time so I'm going to have it sprayed with Rust Check or Krown Rust Control. They're the only ones near me. I'm going to spray it with something no matter what but I thought I'd see what kind of responses I might get from you guys. Any good results out there? How about bad results? I know it make a heck of a mess but one good thing is, it smells good LOL.
Look forward to hearing back.
Thanks, Wally
I have had Rust Check applied to two vehicles. The shop I use does a good job spraying inside frame rails, door jams,,, They will drill holes in door jams to be able to spray inside areas, so be aware of that. They plug the holes with plastic plugs.
I think that it works, but it is not a one spray and your done program. They want you back every year. I get a re spray every two or three years. The price is a bit less with the re spray.
The car will drip for a couple of days, for me that is fine, I park in the street and keep it out of the garage. No big deal, it is surprising how long the drip marks lasts on the street surface, to me that is a good sign.
The under side of the car dries eventually, no big deal to work on the car .The oil coating likely lasts longer in tight crevices and places where water would collect and start rust.
With that said, if there is already rust started, an oil film may slow it down, but it won’t stop or fix it.
 
I have had Rust Check applied to two vehicles. The shop I use does a good job spraying inside frame rails, door jams,,, They will drill holes in door jams to be able to spray inside areas, so be aware of that. They plug the holes with plastic plugs.
I think that it works, but it is not a one spray and your done program. They want you back every year. I get a re spray every two or three years. The price is a bit less with the re spray.
The car will drip for a couple of days, for me that is fine, I park in the street and keep it out of the garage. No big deal, it is surprising how long the drip marks lasts on the street surface, to me that is a good sign.
The under side of the car dries eventually, no big deal to work on the car .The oil coating likely lasts longer in tight crevices and places where water would collect and start rust.
With that said, if there is already rust started, an oil film may slow it down, but it won’t stop or fix it.
Yes,and that's what I need right now. Just to slow it down until I can afford to do it right.Thanks for your input.
 
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