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SmokeJumper69

SmokeJumper69

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I bought an old carb off ebay. Says its out of a '62 Valiant 173ci slant six. It's a Carter 1 barrel. I can't seem to find any literature in on it so I can get a rebuild kit. I think it's missing a few things. Like vacuum ports. Any help you can give me I'd appreciate. I gave up on the Holley 1920. She keeps stalling out after I stop in gear. It's getting annoying.

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Looks like a pre-smog Carter BBS. Without the carb #, it's hard to tell exactly what year. A carb rebuild kit for your 66 Dart should work.
 
No numbers on the silver tag. It just says. Rebuilt by NPR, Inc. I was looking at it and there seems to be a vacuum nipple missing. There is just blank threads and a hole. Can I just place any vacuum nipple that will thread on? I guess I'll have to plug my PCV valve and I think it will work fine. What kind of power & fuel economy do you think I'll see with this installed?
 
Same as with the 1920 most likely. Don't expect miracles with a 40+ year old carb.
 
Looks like it is for a /6 truck by the looks of the airhorn. Trucks had the oil bath aircleaners that clamped on the airhorn instead of using a stud like a dry element air cleaner. The stud can be added though for cars.

Chuck
 
Looks like the one I just converted from off of my 63 Valiant /6. It used a rod from the gas pedal to the carb. Found my numbers on the body, kit for it was 16.95 float was 14
 
SmokeJumper69 said:
No numbers on the silver tag. It just says. Rebuilt by NPR, Inc. I was looking at it and there seems to be a vacuum nipple missing. There is just blank threads and a hole. Can I just place any vacuum nipple that will thread on? I guess I'll have to plug my PCV valve and I think it will work fine. What kind of power & fuel economy do you think I'll see with this installed?
Click to expand...

Use a draft tube -- don't just plug your PCV line. That is a good way to start generating gasket oil leaks everywhere.

How did the rebuilt distributor I sent you work out? No effect on the stalling problem at all?
 
340mopar said:
Looks like it is for a /6 truck by the looks of the airhorn. Trucks had the oil bath aircleaners that clamped on the airhorn instead of using a stud like a dry element air cleaner. The stud can be added though for cars.

Chuck
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thats the one !!
i had one of those on my 71 D400 flatbed and it drove me crazy. i read some threads on a jeep site and most people were having similar frustrations. i ended up getting an autolite 2100 series 2bbl carb from a early to mid 80's ford (van, pickup, etc.) and a cheapo carb adapter from checkers, installed it with a little linkage tweeking and never looked back. they come in two sizes, get the smaller cfm model.
save yourself some grief and throw that bbs as far as you can. my 2c
 
Kevin Johnson said:
Use a draft tube -- don't just plug your PCV line. That is a good way to start generating gasket oil leaks everywhere.

How did the rebuilt distributor I sent you work out? No effect on the stalling problem at all?
Click to expand...

It runs a lot better at idle with the new distributor on, thanks for that by the way. But once I put it in drive she shuts down. I have another carb I'm gonna rebuild that has all the vacuum ports, came off a 65 Dart, just needs a rebuild and I have to steal some linkages off of the one I pictured. I think I gotta reset the valves as well. I'm now worrying it has something to do with the car being set up to run on leaded gas and I have been running regular and putting up a lot of miles. I think I might have to rebuild the head.
 
That's the normal air horn for the BBS, the stud clips into the two ears on the side.
Are you sure that vacuum port's threaded? All the ones I've ever had were just pressed lightly in.
And just to throw my 2 cents in, the BBS carb is the best carb for the slant six (stockish anyways), I have always gotten more performance and economy out of them over the Holleys and they are very easy to work on.
 
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