What oil type to put back in

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74swinger360

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So last time when i rebuilt the engine I just threw in some 10w30, I was thinking about putting synthetic oil in it. Anyone run this and what type of oil would anyone suggest. Its a 360 with a mild cam, headers, KB 10:1 pistons, eddy intake, 750 CFM carb. anyways im replacing the radiator and want to do a complete flush. Thanks for the input.
 
So last time when i rebuilt the engine I just threw in some 10w30, I was thinking about putting synthetic oil in it. Anyone run this and what type of oil would anyone suggest. Its a 360 with a mild cam, headers, KB 10:1 pistons, eddy intake, 750 CFM carb. anyways im replacing the radiator and want to do a complete flush. Thanks for the input.


DO NOT run any regualr 10w30. You should be very careful what oils you use especially with the flat tappet cam motors. New oils have 1/3 to 1/4 the amount of zinc needed for proper engine wear. Thank gov't regulations for this. I am rebuilding my motor right now and picked up some Royal Purple 10w30 Breakin Oil. After 500 miles I will only use Royal Purple. Its amazing how oils have changed over the years, just a heads up.

http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/CamshaftLubricationFacts.pdf

This will explain a lot.
 
Although I think your question is a fairly pointless one, here are some threads you need to read through. The first is 2 pages worth of what everybody uses. The other 2 are about zinc content. The reason I think this is a pointless question is because out of 10 people who respond, you'll probably get 8 or 9 different answers, which is really going to be of no help. I use Rotella 10w30 by the way.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=81822
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=83428
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=97186
 
New oils have 1/3 to 1/4 the amount of zinc needed for proper engine wear.


That's not quite true! Back before the SM oils were introduced and no one was talking about zinc in oil the SH/SJ oils had 1200 ppm of ZDDP in them. The current SM oils have 800 ppm. That is a 1/3 less not 1/3 the amount, which would be 400 ppm.

Kind of splitting hairs but the current oils are more than adequate for engines with stock or close to stock flat tappet cams. It's when you start going to high lift cams with the corresponding high pressure springs that it becomes important to use an oil that has the higher ZDDP content of the older service rated oils.

To the OP if you are starting the engine for the first time add a bottle of break in additive from one of the cam manufacturers and you will be good.

FWIW, I have run synthetic oil in my 360 since I built it 35K miles ago. Mostly Mobil 1 but I will use whatever is on sale, curretnly have Valvoline synthetic in it.
 
While Dave knows his stuff, I would still recommend the break in additive, at all times. If you know the new oil doesn't have what it should (enough of what it should), why risk your engine? The additive is 12-13 bucks. A new engine after your existing flat tappet has sent metal throughout the engine =? Why risk it?
 
I would use a 30-weight (0W-30, 5W-30, 10W30) HDEO. The 0W-30 and 5W-30 versions are generally synthetic engine oils. Oil distributors stock the less common grades.
 
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