What Paint Would YOU Do?

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clementine

clementine

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Dear FABO!
I can handle most things with my whip but cam choice and PAINT are my tough decisions. The cam will come later so that leads us to paint choice. I am not good with colors and it seems like the second generation fastback barracudas can be made or broke with paint schemes. I am drawn to that green/gold color, but am willing to try the super stock paint scheme. Black is always a good choice. I have black seat covers so I am tending to not go black as it will not have the huge power to back up the murdered out look. So, that leaves me with the green/gold, or super stock. Super stock will take more time and energy.....and what three colors will do it? Green/gold color is good, but with black steelies and dog dishes do you go with a white stripe or black? Would you stripe it down the middle or go with the rocker stripe? I have poured over the pictures and am really having a tough time picking. I think that the rear end of these cars can look really bulbous done up in just one color but the super stock is really flashy and wonder if I can pull it off. What about using matt/gloss finishes and similar colors to break it up........Its a big decision.
1967 barracuda FB 4 speed 383....I dont think this is a factory 383 4 speed as it has a re-assigned VIN. It is a mini-tubbed car and will have 325/50/15s on back.

Thanks in advance for the weigh in.....I know ultimately it is a personal choice but it seems like a journey that all ya'all who have finished one ...have made.
 
clementine...

i have 4 barracudas - 2 68's and 2 69's. the two 68's are factory colors - turbine bronze and silver - one 69 is the medium factory gold and the other 69 is a M-Code 440 cuda which is presently factory yellow, but may end up another color.

i ran a body shop for 4 years and was the main "paint guy." with paint, you need to figure out what you are trying to achieve with the car. for example, if you are building a "muscle car" that you want to look like a street racer, you might want to go with "competition" colors like orange or red or plymouth's "neon" green. all those colors look great with flat or gloss black stripes or accents. one the other hand, suppose you want the car to look "expensive" or "pretty" or "factory new". if that's your goal, it's tuff to beat a nice B-5 blue metallic or the darker plymouth green metallics or one of the mid-gold metallics. any of the silvers will also make the car look "custom" as will black. with these colors, stripes and black accents are less because you are not trying to achieve a "race car" look.

if you are going to build a "drag car" tribute and are going to put a bunch of race component decals on the car, lots of guys went the "white car" route.

the second gen barracudas look the best with some stripe style that plymouth came up with for those cars. remember, all the graphics on the 64-71 era muscle cars were chosen by the car companies after thousands of dollars were spent on designs and color combinations experimented with by the factory design divisions. the stripes on the old muscle cars didn't just "drop out of the sky" - lots of work, time and money was spent on those designs. i've never seen a 67-69 barracuda with a later model stripe design look right.

finally, if you're building a "resto-mod" barracuda with all kinds of modifications to the interior, chassis and drive train, you can pretty much paint the car any color and use any designs you want. once you go past the "stock" look, the sky's pretty much the limit.

hope these suggestions are helpful...
 
All I can say is do not paint it a '70s "hi-impact" color like Sassy Grass Green, or Panther Pink. I think pre-70s cars look awful in those colors, in most cases. I'd stick with available '67 colors. Always liked the unique colors Mopar had back then. MM-1 Turbine Bronze would look fantastic with the black interior, and black stripes if you decide to put stripes on it.
 
Right on! I like the paneling from the 70s and think that the "super stock" look uses some of those cues. I looked through 4 pages of the previous "street freaks" link and although there are a ton of cars that have great paint I will have to search it more for a fastback barracuda. It seems like the *** end of this thing can look a bit "pacer-esk" for lack of a better word. Im not into the "hi impact" colors and dig that turbine bronze color.

I agree with Jim that the research has been done so be careful to stray from the stock presentation. (as far as stripes)

It will be interesting to see what I end up with.

Thanks for your responses.
 
Greens and golds are a good choice IMO for this car.
Black is hot and hard to keep clean and dig free.
Body better be perfect with black.
I would stay away from blues unless you just like them.
White is always safe but might not be a choice with a black interior.
Try T7 with your black interior which would be a correct color for a 69 if that works.
It hides dirt and blemishes well.
It's a metallic and has a nice look of all bussiness.
 
IMG_9992-Medium.jpg
 
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I like the color a lot. My secondary issue is finding a good way to break up the lines of the car as I think visually it can get a bit booty, especially having some balloons on rear (325/50s) . I'm thinking that gold color, gloss bottom/mat top? That kinda teardrops to back panel.....too experimental? I should get some kinda computer software that I can try different looks on....anyone have a line on that situation?

Thanks "adriver" you have been a big help.
 
this is my 68 barracuda in original "turbine bronze." i restored this car myself and did the paint. the paint IS NOT as shinny or "deep" as most "newly restored" cars you see at shows because i painted this car with "48 year old technology" "one step" "acrylic laquer" - which is very close to the one step, acrylic enamel that plymouth used in 1968. i had a body shop "back then" and lacquer and enamel paints were the standard. GM used laquer and Chrysler used enamel. you could get lacquer to have a pretty deep finish but you had to spray several coats, wet sand with 1500/2000 paper then "buff" with a machine and compound. the original laquers did not have a lot of "gloss" compound in them. however, acrylic enamel DID have a fair amount of "clear gloss" compound in it and a very DEEP and shinny paint job can be accomplished using acrylic enamel.

the way my car looks is the way MOST cars looked "from the factory" in 1968. only the "luxury" cars like the Lincoln Continental and Cadillac came from the factory with "exquisite" paint. i know this is a personal taste thing and i have NOTHING against the remarkable and amazing paint finishes that can be achieved today with current paint technology. but i started with a car that was 95% original and i wanted it to remain that way. and to some "old" guys like me, i wanted my "cruising images" today to be as close as the ones i had 48 years ago.

i do have the original design lateral black rally stripes that were OEM for 68 barracudas. they really look nice with the turbine bronze paint. i hope to get them on before summer ends.

good luck with your car...

20150830_123735 (1).jpg
 
thanks old dude. I sprayed a 56 coronet with lacquer that I found in trunk and would consider spraying it again. I will have to check to see if there is any other type of paint on this car before spraying as urethane and lacquer don't mix.... or so I'm told.
The car came with epoxy primer....i think
 
clementine said:
thanks old dude. I sprayed a 56 coronet with lacquer that I found in trunk and would consider spraying it again. I will have to check to see if there is any other type of paint on this car before spraying as urethane and lacquer don't mix.... or so I'm told.
The car came with epoxy primer....i think
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hey clementine...

the really nice thing about lacquer paint is that it is VERY easy to spray. there are three basic thinners - low temp(cold, 40's-50's), mid-temp (55-65 degrees) and high temp (air temp above 70 degrees). as you might understand, the cold temp thinner drys the fastest so you have to worry about the paint spraying "dry" and you ending up with a "sandpaper" type finish; and the high temp stuff drys very slow, so you have to worry about getting "runs." but if you make a mistake with lacquer, all you have to do is wait about an hour and sand the paint down and start again. also, it is very easy to spray an entire car using lacquer in your garage - just wet down the floor with water and put a floor fan by the door to "pull" the air out.

you can spray "enamel" over lacquer but you CANNOT spray "lacquer" over enamel. also, lacquer based primer is very easy to use because it drys fast and sands easily. remember, you can get "light grey", "dark grey" or "hot rod red" primer. it will make a difference in ease of coverage of the top coat spray based upon the base coat primer color you use. basically, light grey primers are good for light colors, dark primers are good for dark colors.

now before i get "hate mail" from you "modern paint" guys... what i'm talking about here is just for the 50 year old paint processes. i know NOTHING about "water based" paint or the newer "several step and component" paints.

finally, "in the old days" i sprayed these paints with either a "Divelbiss" or "Binks" spray gun with the paint can on the bottom of the gun. i've never used the new style guns with the paint cup on the top. the old paints do well with about an 8-10" "spray" pattern gun adjustment at 40-45 psi "at the gun" and holding the gun around 12 inches from the car panel using even and regular back and forth strokes. don't forget to take your air hose and spray around all the areas to be sprayed to dislodge dust in cracks and trim BEFORE you spray - you DON'T want a "surprise" when you're spraying the color!! AND .. do a final "wipe down" of the panel with a cleaner before the final paint application. i used to use a product called "Prep-Sol" but i don't even know if that is still available!

let me say something about "Turbine Bronze" if you decide to use that color. most metallic paints are difficult to apply - and turbine bronze is HARD TO APPLY. when you are spraying metallic paint, it will start to do something generally called "tiger striping" - meaning you will see darker lines in areas of the panels. this happens because the metallic metal in the paint is not going on in a uniform manner. you can cure this problem by moving your gun back away from the surface around 6" and spraying "between" the dark areas. this will allow the paint droplets to dry in the air and not hit the surface - only the "metal" metallic particles will hit the surface causing the "dark" areas to "lighten up." once you get rid of the "tiger stripes" give the entire area an overall spray so the surrounding area is uniform in color and metallic composition.

sorry for all the "free advice" here... i'll stop now.. :0)
 
Only one PPG store in my major city says they have the ability to mix acrylic enamel now.
And they aren't on my route. So I've never been there.
The think I like about single stage no clear coat is I can touch up.
Take the damaged respray to the body line and hide it if it's not a whole panel to paint
This matter to a driver.
I always have used Sherwin Willams acrylic enamel in factory colors.
Use the hardener for gloss.
I keep my metallic bottom can siphon gun agitated while I'm spraying.
It is a little trickier.
But I I can do it......
If you use Sherwin Williams acrylic enamel, ask about have the thicker formulation.
I think they have two different lines in that.
 
All good info from you guys! Now finding out what type of primer I already have (came primered) as I am unwilling to take it to bare steel.....i am moving forward. I have a gallon of PPG clear and this is a slightly budget build....

I do appreciate the help guys.....ill be re-reading this info as I'm at work right now
 
Look at tawney gold. It was a 71 color more green than gold my DART was this color was very few at the shows I went to this color. Pics in my garage on here
 
one last comment on old fashioned auto "lacquer paint"...

i searched for several weeks before i found some. it seems with environmental laws and regulations, lacquer auto paint is VERY hard to find. however, i did find one vendor that still carries and will mix "any" factory paint code in either acrylic lacquer or acrylic enamel. WOULD YOU BELIEVE this vendor is TCP Global auto paint supplies in SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA!! of all the places to find an "evil anti-environment auto paint" - what i needed was in California!! i was told though that those guys are not allowed to sell this paint in California but can only send it "out of state." i think i paid like $275/gallon for my lacquer turbine bronze which is a good deal given the cost of auto paint these days. finally, PPG (Pittsburgh Plate Glass) DOES also have "original factory OEM pre-mixed" acrylic enamel for all Chrysler products. please sit down.... PPG's paint costs $1000.00 per gallon!!! so if you absolutely want to paint your 71 HEMI Cuda convertible with 1971 formulated "factory" paint - PPG has what you need!
 
69_340_GTS said:
All I can say is do not paint it a '70s "hi-impact" color like Sassy Grass Green, or Panther Pink. I think pre-70s cars look awful in those colors, in most cases. I'd stick with available '67 colors. Always liked the unique colors Mopar had back then. MM-1 Turbine Bronze would look fantastic with the black interior, and black stripes if you decide to put stripes on it.
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I totally agree. Some cars look good in those colors, but not 2nd gen cudas. I would vote for F8 green with white stripes.
Cuda 49.JPG
 
harrisonm said:
I totally agree. Some cars look good in those colors, but not 2nd gen cudas. I would vote for F8 green with white stripes.View attachment 1715070337
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I have always loved F8 since the 60's. in FRESH shiney paint, not 40 yr old faded though! Bronze to me looks great on some cars and is pretty seldom seen also. like said, single stage metallic takes extra skill and attention spraying. but it can be done by us non experts if careful and a good gun helps!! ??
I use TCP Global one reason is they have some low VOC primers. I use the single stage acrylic urethane and I also like the less glossy look , like it more like OEM paint from the 60's,70's. but with a slow reducer, a wet look can be had.
BUT they are slow to get product to you. I have never done so but I read here, it can be ordered thru Walmart and save quite a bit on shipping.
 
clementine said:
All good info from you guys! Now finding out what type of primer I already have (came primered) as I am unwilling to take it to bare steel.....
Click to expand...
If it is actually epoxy primer, or a true primer/sealer, you should be able to put any kind of paint over it.
 
I had a 73 Scamp that I rebuilt and paint code was JY9 Tahitian Gold Mettalic . It was the original color for the car, very, very close in color to the Daytona that is in your post. nobody would believe it was the original color. I used to have to bring my chip chart with to the car shows to prove it. As I tell everyone, it is your car you paid for it so you can do anything you want to it....Scampman
 
Great Info Fellas! this will help tremendously in picking a paint! I really dig the green Harrisonm is running, but since the 56 coronet was painted green, my wife is looking forward to something different than green (hence the "gold/green" color).

Thanks again and please continue to add .02 to this thread. All info is welcome! Especially you who have given me specific paint codes!
 
barbee6043 said:
I have always loved F8 since the 60's. in FRESH shiney paint, not 40 yr old faded though! Bronze to me looks great on some cars and is pretty seldom seen also. like said, single stage metallic takes extra skill and attention spraying. but it can be done by us non experts if careful and a good gun helps!! ??
I use TCP Global one reason is they have some low VOC primers. I use the single stage acrylic urethane and I also like the less glossy look , like it more like OEM paint from the 60's,70's. but with a slow reducer, a wet look can be had.
BUT they are slow to get product to you. I have never done so but I read here, it can be ordered thru Walmart and save quite a bit on shipping.
Click to expand...
Interesting you should mention TCP Global. I used their Restoration shop paint to paint my car; primer, paint and clear was all TCP brand. I have been painting cars for 40 years, and I will favorably compare the paint I used from TCP Global to any major brand paint I have ever used. It went on nice and polished out like a mirror.
Cuda 50.JPG
I always order directly from TCP, and I have always gotten good, fast service.
 
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