What Say You? "Header Attachment Hardware"

[doc540]

FOR THIS APPLICATION:

Clifford Shorty Headers and Clifford Intake

Using head studs, not stock bolts and washers

1. Do you think brass castle nuts are necessary at each end of the head as they would be with stock manifolds?

2. What attachment nuts/washers do you recommend?

FOR THIS APPLICATION

 

[Darter6]

Unless your engine has been apart before the head has studs,triangle washers and 3 cone shaped washers,each end and center stud.
The reason for them is during heat cycles the manifolds "move". It's best to use that system. Also torque is critical at 10-15 ft lbs if I remember.Photo shows washers in black.

 

[doc540]

Unless your engine has been apart before the head has studs,triangle washers and 3 cone shaped washers,each end and center stud.
The reason for them is during heat cycles the manifolds "move". It's best to use that system. Also torque is critical at 10-15 ft lbs if I remember.Photo shows washers in black.

Thanks
Where to get the conical washers and brass nuts?

 

[KosmicKuda]

If your header is made in 2 pieces (not a single long flange) then I don't think you need the cones. I would say you still need the triangles to span the intake/exhaust though.
The stock cast iron exhaust manifold was long and if torqued down tight would crack as it tried to expand and retract.

 

[doc540]

If your header is made in 2 pieces (not a single long flange) then I don't think you need the cones. I would say you still need the triangles to span the intske/exhaust though.
The stock cast iron exhaust manifold was long and if torqued down tight would crack as it tried to expand and retract.

Thanks
Yes, I have the two piece headers and intake/exhaust triangles.

I'll use locking keps nuts on the end and center studs (with low torque).

 

[Darter6]

The brass nuts came from the local hardware store.Use both the brass nuts and brass washers on the center/ends and you should be fine.