what seam sealer?

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younggun2.0

younggun2.0

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I will be completely stripping the entire floor pan in my 65 valiant this weekend. I have patched up the rust and now i need to re seam seal the entire passenger compartment. I need something that i can paint over with oil based rustoleum. I figure im only gonna do this once so cost is not an issue. what is the best product?

 
The stuff I use is called Pro Form, if I recall correctly, comes in brush on or in a caulk tube, but I'm just north of the border from you so you may not be able to get it. Pretty sure most products you would get from a pain jobber are pretty good and you can always ask them, my guys are very helpful.
 
Whatever you do, don't use POR15 on it or Rob will try to make you eat cat ****. :D
 
TrailBeast said:
Whatever you do, don't use POR15 on it or Rob will try to make you eat cat ****. :D
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lol. i already plan to use rustoleum. and when you say cat **** do you mean like an almond roca?

0213_almondroca.jpg
 
Why don't you clean the rust off, and paint it with epoxy primer,??. That would be the best rust protection. You can grind it off, or sand it off, or sand blast it off.
That is what I would do.

As far as seem sealer I would use "Lord Fusor" 803. It's tuff and sticks to any thing, and you can paint it in 10-30 mins.

By the way nice job on welding the pans in. I just finished this on my 66 Dart.

Just my .02

barracudadave67
 
barracudadave67 said:
Why don't you clean the rust off, and paint it with epoxy primer,??. That would be the best rust protection. You can grind it off, or sand it off, or sand blast it off.
That is what I would do.

As far as seem sealer I would use "Lord Fusor" 803. It's tuff and sticks to any thing, and you can paint it in 10-30 mins.

Just my .02

barracudadave67
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I need something that can brush on. I cant paint with air in the garage. i dont have a cover and dont wont to take the chance of getting over spray on my dart sitting next to it. I will be wire wheeling the entire floor till its down to bare metal. all the old sealer just flaked off. under all the old sealer there is surface rust.
 
Everybody rants and raves about POR. They should call it POS because I never liked the way it worked. For the floor pans I guess it's ok but on the frame or suspension parts, funk that. Use a roll on bed liner. Not only will it hold up bitchin, but it will also act as a sound deadener. Your call man just giving you my opinion from years of painting and restos. About 6 years ago a buddy and myself restored a 70 split bumper camaro and sprayed the front subframe with POR 15 and after 2 years of Sunday driving there were huge flakes of paint missing exposing the epoxy primer. I won't use it on anything, not even my lawn mower.
 
gtmopar said:
Everybody rants and raves about POR. They should call it POS because I never liked the way it worked. For the floor pans I guess it's ok but on the frame or suspension parts, funk that. Use a roll on bed liner. Not only will it hold up bitchin, but it will also act as a sound deadener. Your call man just giving you my opinion from years of painting and restos. About 6 years ago a buddy and myself restored a 70 split bumper camaro and sprayed the front subframe with POR 15 and after 2 years of Sunday driving there were huge flakes of paint missing exposing the epoxy primer. I won't use it on anything, not even my lawn mower.
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thanks for the heads up. i may look into the bed liner as well.
 
I always get it to bare metal then epoxy primer everything then apply seam sealer, with a parts washer brush, nice and sloppy just like the factory....then paint it all and all done
 

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I use Wurth 2 part seam sealer kicks off quick and sticks like flies to s**t,
It's a little pricey but it's the best stuff going IMO.
[ame]http://www.wurthcanada.com/media/en/documents/catalogues_and_product_info/newproducts/02.2012%20-%20Bare%20Metal%20Seam%20Sealer.pdf[/ame]
 
The 3M brown stuff cracks. If you want to use it for the interior, do it twice. If you are doing something on the outside of the car, go with a semi-rigid sealer and be sure to mask it, then follow up with a glove and some laquer thinner. Don't leave any on areas that will be sanded. It sands like rubber.
 
gtmopar said:
Everybody rants and raves about POR. They should call it POS because I never liked the way it worked. For the floor pans I guess it's ok but on the frame or suspension parts, funk that. Use a roll on bed liner. Not only will it hold up bitchin, but it will also act as a sound deadener. Your call man just giving you my opinion from years of painting and restos. About 6 years ago a buddy and myself restored a 70 split bumper camaro and sprayed the front subframe with POR 15 and after 2 years of Sunday driving there were huge flakes of paint missing exposing the epoxy primer. I won't use it on anything, not even my lawn mower.
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POR 15 is designed to go on rusty surfaces not shiney metal or epoxy primer. I don't think many people get that. All I ever use it for is those tough to get at bits of rust, never as an actual paint.
 
Another vote for brush-able seam sealer. Sets in a reasonable time and is very tough. It's just like the factory stuff. 3M Fast-n-Firm in a caulk tube is horrible. I've also used a urethane seam sealer in a aerosol can that comes out like Cheez-Whiz. Course, it's more rubbery when set. And the two part seam sealers are outstanding - cure very quickly, but are pricier and require a special (read:expensive) gun to dispense.
 
Rob said:
POR 15 is designed to go on rusty surfaces not shiney metal or epoxy primer. I don't think many people get that. All I ever use it for is those tough to get at bits of rust, never as an actual paint.
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Maybe you should look on their website and see how they advertise their product as "indestructible over any surface" yea I understand that its for use over rust but I'm not the type to slop paint over some rusty *** metal and say " look all better and shiny!" So I guess rust is the best base for a finish and not a properly prepped surface? Better check your sources.
 
RaniDart70 said:
I always get it to bare metal then epoxy primer everything then apply seam sealer, with a parts washer brush, nice and sloppy just like the factory....then paint it all and all done
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x2


Although last time I used the 3M water-based in a chalking tube and it made very pretty lines. a wet finger made it mold in like magic, might be worth it in areas that show like the trunk.
 
I just did my floor seams on my Duster. I wire-wheeled them and treated the rusted areas with Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer, the sealed the seams (at the recommendation of a FABO member) with urethane caulk (About 8 bucks a tube) and then flat black Rust-Oleum oil base over the top. Looks good, hard as a rock and no overspray (except for the Rust Reformer) There may be better products but the urethane is at my local Ace Hardware...a block away. No-brainer.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=10519&page=29
 
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