What the heck??

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'74 Sport

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Yesterday, I was riding with Aaron in his Dart and he reminded me that it recently started pulling to the left. Running about 30 mph, he let go of the steering wheel and the car immediately dove hard to the left. I thought he meant it would gradually tail off a straight line course. This sucker went HARD to the left.

We were going to a welding supply shop, so once we got there, I got down and took a quick look underneath. The first thing I noticed was the lower control arm bump stops were toast. The passenger side was being crushed by the frame, and the driver side was gone completely, leaving about 1-1/2" space between the frame and control arm.

Granted, we put the old ones back on when we rebuilt the car, but they seemed to be OK at the time. I guess the hammering they have gotten in the past year, since Aaron began driving the car, finally took its toll on them. That's alright, we'll replace them this week while he is on Spring break (if I can find some).

Here's the question:

Should this have anything to do with how the car dives to the left? After the welding shop, we took his car to the shop that originally did the alignment. They said the steering issue was not uncommon for these old Darts, and it was probably the proportioning valve on top of the steering gear box. He suggested slightly loosening the two mounting bolts and lightly tapping the valve sideways towards the left side. After a quick test drive, we will know if that fixed the steering or if it needs a little more adjustment.

It sounds reasonable that the steering issue could be in the gear box, but there is one other thing I noticed last night as Aaron was changing his engine oil and had the car up on stands. The driver side torsion bar adjusting bolt was not seated in the hole/recess on the bottom of the adjuster. It was slightly off to the side. I don't know if that would matter or not, but we are going to back the bolt off and get it into the hole where it belongs.

I guess what I am asking is if the ride height has been compromised by the torsion bar adjuster being misaligned, causing the bump stops to be destroyed (age being a factor), causing the front to sag more on the driver side, causing the car to swerve? That really doesn't seem to make sense, because the ride height was originally set to specs and should not have allowed the front end to sit on the bump stops anyway. Aren't they there just to prevent over-travel.

I know there is the possibility that some of this is purely coincidence, but the fact remains that the car is not safe in its present condition. Our course of action is to replace the bump stops, check ride height, test drive, adjust gear box valve as instructed by professional, test drive, repeat as necessary.

Let me know what you think,
Jerry
 
Ok so here is what I know from experience.

Changing the ride height will affect the steering ESPECIALLY if it's only to one side. as for the torsion bar adjuster, hopefully it didn't mung up the threads on the bolt. Also if the bumper is gone, be careful about bottoming out the lower control arm on the frame, it may cause the LCA to break at the front torsion bar mount (again known from experience).

Tow in or out seemed to have a HUGE effect on driveability of the 3 a-bodies I've owned. more so than new cars

Steering box causing the problem? never heard of the loosen whack whack shuffle fix,

I say fix one thing at a time.
start with the ride height - test drive - my guess is that will fix it if nothing else has come loose
steering box whack thingy - test drive

bump stop should have nothing to do with the steering of the car... that's of course if it wasn't aligned while it was sitting on it. :lol:
 
Sounds to me like the caster is different from side to side. If the caster on the left is less that the right it will go left. For example if the right caster is 5 degrees positive and the left is 1 degree positive. Or if the right is 0 degrees and the left is 5 degrees negative, etc.

Positive caster is the spindle is tipped back on the top and negative is the spindle is tipped forward on the top. Motorcycle forks are raked positive.

We do this on our circle track cars on purpose so the cars try to turn left on their own.


Chuck
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll have to say, this is something of a mystery. The car has been on the road for only a year (8,000 mi) and while under there yesterday, it did seem like the driver side front tire has more wear on the inside edge than anywhere else. I'm hoping the torsion bar adjuster is the key to all this. The threads should be OK, because the bolt threads through a swivel (flat plate) positioned within a slot in the LCA. Should just be a matter of backing it out a bit pop it back into the hole. The question is how it came out to begin with. I can't imagine us not noticing that when we put everything back together, it's so obvious.

I'll post our results later,
Jerry
 
Are you sure that the tie-rod adjusting sleeve is tight. The fact that the tire is worn bad on the inside means that that tire is pointing out in the front much more than it should be.

Jack
 
Look closely at the cup that the top of your adjuster bolt sits in, it is possible it blew the side out of the cup, or maybe he hit a real whopper of a bump along the way and somehow bounced it out (I would opt agianst that possibility but you just never know). Or it may be that when you guys tightened up the front end originally, that flat plat you referred to that the bolt goes thru and is trapped in the control arm, may not have stayed in alignment with the pivot cup, the slot that the plate is "trapped in is a u shape at the bottom so that as you tighten the bolts up it supposed to keep the bolt aligned to that cup shaped hole. It may have stuck for what ever reason so that as you tightened it it stayed out towards the lip of the cup, then you go out and drive and bounce the suspension around and it slipped out of the cup (most likely I think). I will am CERTAIN your alignment problem is associated with your find in regards to that adjuser bolt. Definatly NOT the steering gear box, the adjustment you were told of will adjust for wander or over tight steering, but it will NOT fix an alignment issue. Fix the adjuster and get it set to proper ride height and get it aligned again. I assume you had it aligned when you originaly put it together and it must have driven straight then, so if nothing else is different (has hit a curb, broke a part, gained a couple hundred pounds) then you have found your problem.
 
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