What to try next??? dragging brake shoes

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412 Stroker

412 Stroker

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Heres what is happening after driving a short distance, stop and go traffic for instance, the right rear drum brake starts to drag, not lock-up but drag enough that the drum gets so hot it baked the paint off, and smokes, now it did this before I replaced the following and is still doing it: new brake drum cylinders, new brake shoes, all new ss lines, and new proportionary block, I have disc brakes on the front, the master cylinder is still power brake and was also replaced OEM . anyone with ideas??
 
the master cylinder is still power brake and was also replaced OEM .
was it doing this prior to changing the master cylinder? Maybe a bad residual valve in the M/C. You might have got a bad set of shoes, I once got a bad set of disc pads. Would not go over the rotor even though the piston was completely compressed. I know I'm talking about the opposite end of the car but you get the jist of what I'm saying... Mic the shoes and check them against another brand, gotta start somewhere...
 
Check the Brake springs, especially at the adjuster. The adjuster wheel may be "adjusting" as you are driving/braking.
 
try a new rear brake hose, if that does not work disconnect the emergency brake
 
warwagons said:
Check the Brake springs, especially at the adjuster. The adjuster wheel may be "adjusting" as you are driving/braking.
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War wagon, I was thinking that as i made sure the drum turned freely, and now it is tight, so that might be what is happening, so I am trying to figure out how to hold the self adjuster tight so it will not turn/tighten.
 
412 Stroker said:
War wagon, I was thinking that as i made sure the drum turned freely, and now it is tight, so that might be what is happening, so I am trying to figure out how to hold the self adjuster tight so it will not turn/tighten.
Click to expand...

The spring should have enough tension to hold the adjuster wheel in place. It may be time for new springs.
Also check that the E-Brake cable is actually retracting as it should. My 62 Dodge had this problem. Anytime I set the brake, the wheel would lock.
 
warwagons said:
The spring should have enough tension to hold the adjuster wheel in place. It may be time for new springs.
Also check that the E-Brake cable is actually retracting as it should. My 62 Dodge had this problem. Anytime I set the brake, the wheel would lock.
Click to expand...
Not the springs, I always buy a spring kit with the brake shoes.
 
well thanks for the idea's. I am going to replace the "new" wheel cylinder with another, and try to figure out how the wheel adjuster could be tightening on it's own, other then that I am stumped, if the resdual valve in the master cylinder was not working corectly wouldn't both brakes be dragging??
 
Adjuster in backwards? I think this will cause them to tighten everytime you brake as compared to adjusting only when you brake in reverse. Or is this an old wives tale? My bets on a bad rubber hose not releasing the fluid out of the wheel cylinder though.
 
daredevil said:
Adjuster in backwards? I think this will cause them to tighten everytime you brake as compared to adjusting only when you brake in reverse. Or is this an old wives tale? My bets on a bad rubber hose not releasing the fluid out of the wheel cylinder though.
Click to expand...

I think the adjuster is in backwards or adjuster for the wrong side is being used. Bad hose is a good bet, too.
 
daredevil said:
Adjuster in backwards? I think this will cause them to tighten everytime you brake as compared to adjusting only when you brake in reverse. Or is this an old wives tale? My bets on a bad rubber hose not releasing the fluid out of the wheel cylinder though.
Click to expand...
There is only a rubber hose from the brake line (metal tubing) to the distribution block on the axle, ( so the axle can move up and down) and THAT is a brand new SS line. so can't be that. but keep the idea's commin...
 
I had a residue valve in an MC get plugged once and it would hold to much pressure in the wheels cylinder. Easy check is apply the brakes a few times and then crack the brake line fitting at the MC if you get a big squirt of fluid then your are holding pressure at the MC. If it's not at the MC you can do the same thing at the wheel cylinder bleeder and that will let you know if the liner in the rubber line to the axle has collapsed and it is holding pressure to the wheel.

If it is not holding pressure in the system then its mechanical and the other folks have covered it pretty well.
 
I had a residue valve in an MC get plugged once and it would hold to much pressure in the wheels cylinder. Easy check is apply the brakes a few times and then crack the brake line fitting at the MC if you get a big squirt of fluid then your are holding pressure at the MC.

dgc333 thanks for the info on the MC I didn't know how to check that untill your post, I am going to work on it tommorrow, if i figure something out I will post it, thanks to all for the idea's
 
Did you grease the contact points where the shoes meet the backing plate?
I doubt it is the only problem, but it could be making the problem worse.

All springs in proper location? Lots of these shoes have extra holes, and it is possible to get a spring installed, but in the wrong hole on the shoe, so the sp[ring is not providing the right tension to pull shoe back in place?
 
Backtobasics said:
Did you grease the contact points where the shoes meet the backing plate?
I doubt it is the only problem, but it could be making the problem worse.

All springs in proper location? Lots of these shoes have extra holes, and it is possible to get a spring installed, but in the wrong hole on the shoe, so the sp[ring is not providing the right tension to pull shoe back in place?
Click to expand...
If i dont get it fixed tommorrow I'll post a pic of what my setup looks like thanks
 
Maybe put the RR brake drum on a lathe. It may be "out of round" enough to be causing your issue........ Alot of great info has already been shared.

Good luck!
 
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