WHAT TYPE OF OIL??

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This is the process we follow. Start motor, run between 2000-3000 rpm for about 20 minutes. Dump the break-in oil and let motor sit over night to cool down. Add standard oil, warm up motor. Shut off and let sit 45 to an hour to heat sink. Start motor and get to proper oil / water temp and then to a base line pull to 6-7/10 of rev limit. Check things and adjust tuning as necessary and then keep upping the rev limit on the dyno. Most engines we run have between 10-20 power pulls, which is really in 10-20 shifts. Let motor cool down and check valve lash and do a leak down test. By this time the motors is either broken in and ready for the races or is junk. There is no middle ground.
Thanks for the input. For those that are interested, took an opportunity to contact oil manufacturer. Told by Joe Gibbs "Driven" oil mfg. to dump the break in oil (of which I have about 10 dyno pulls) for new break in oil and filter. Run 300-500 miles before changing to standard conventional oil.
 
Thanks for the input. For those that are interested, took an opportunity to contact oil manufacturer. Told by Joe Gibbs "Driven" oil mfg. to dump the break in oil (of which I have about 10 dyno pulls) for new break in oil and filter. Run 300-500 miles before changing to standard conventional oil.
About what I was saying.
 
Valvoline Conventional with some Rislone zinc additive and a Wix filter.
 
20-50? Whats the rationale?
big bearing clearances ? Older engine ?
Do not know why the 20W-50 was used but immediately switched oil to Driven break in 10W-40 after engine was operational in car. I was told to change oil immediately after dyno testing and now I know why. All the assembly lube that went into engine build initially was dissolved in the oil. Nasty mess to be running in newly rebuilt machine.
 
20-50? Whats the rationale?
big bearing clearances ? Older engine ?
Not sure what you're questioning. There's 10/30 there, 10/40 and 20/50. 6 cars and they all drink something different...
superbirdfullpaintdassembly4 010.jpg
 
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