What your experience clear coating aluminum parts?

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TXDart

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Just wondering what experience you'll have had clear coating aluminum parts for your mopars?
I am building a 360 motor and painted the new aluminum water pump and timing cover with dupl-color high heat engine paint and now has gray finish almost like primer and wished I had left it bare...I post pictures tomorrow when motor assembled,going to bead blast intake and leave it bare.
 
Just wondering what experience you'll have had clear coating aluminum parts for your mopars?
I am building a 360 motor and painted the new aluminum water pump and timing cover with dupl-color high heat engine paint and now has gray finish almost like primer and wished I had left it bare...I post pictures tomorrow when motor assembled,going to bead blast intake and leave it bare.
tried to do my transmission. looked horrible. Used aluminum primer and paint instead
 
Send it to Phoenix Specialty Coatings. Let @CudaChick1968 put the hook up on you with that awesome lookin Alien Silver. You will never paint small parts again. Besides, clear always turns yellow. Powder coat will not.
 
I am also wondering if the clear coat is going to darken and even look worse latter,it really is not bothering me much at all ,my motor is all black anyways...just trying to get some contrast. ...it all about what's inside,LOL
 
I am also wondering if the clear coat is going to darken and even look worse latter,it really is not bothering me much at all ,my motor is all black anyways...just trying to get some contrast. ...it all about what's inside,LOL


I personally have had good luck with POR clear. Follow the instructions.
 
I used blasted it with play sand first and then used this cleaner and clear coated it.

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p10300-Diamond-Clear-Satin.jpg
 
I painted an intake with hi-temp clear and it turned yellow before I even fired the engine!
 
Martin I haven't used it but every person I've read has had poor results.
I agree with Rusty, touch base with Leanna she'll shoot you the honest truth.
 
Thank you for the mentions Rob and Steve!

I can't recommend blasting and just clear coating used engine parts, and most especially not used intake manifolds. Aluminum is very porous and absorbs all kinds of gunk over the years. Unless you outgas it (cook it in a dedicated shop oven -- NOT in your kitchen!! -- at 500 degrees for a few hours to bring it all to the surface where you can blast it away), all you're doing is merely trapping all that crap under the clear forever. Further, a used intake that has only been blasted can still look mottled, splotchy and uneven in terms of overall color, and no one really wants that look on their pride and joy.

I'm no painter and cannot speak to commercial spray clear coats except to confirm the reports above per my customers that it tends to yellow and look dingy, and that it does little to fulfill the vision they had when they sprayed it on there to start with.

I can sit here all day and tell you to get it powder coated but that's not my style. I let the work speak for itself, and invite any of you to talk with my past customers about their results and make your own decision.

Rather than just clearing blasted aluminum, 90% of my customers prefer to recreate that brand-new, out of the box, sparkly new aluminum finish and want to preserve it for as long as they can. RustyRatRod had it right when he mentioned Alien Silver. It's the overwhelming choice at my shop for intake manifolds while most customers prefer to go with block color for their timing covers and other accessories. Here are a few intakes in that powder color with a topcoat of Clear Vision or Clear Glossy.

Before ...

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After ...

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Close up ...

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This setup is a two-color job featuring Alien Silver and Ink Black ...

Ken's Victor and MP Valve Covers.jpg


For a REALLY distinctive and cool fade-to-black effect, a couple customers have chosen the Alien Silver over gloss black like ocdart's RPM Air Gap ...

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Some of those jobs there are now almost ten years old and I have never received a single report that my work has discolored, not held up to street / strip use or fuel leaks, or suffered any other adverse effects.

It's $35 an hour before your FABO Gold Member Discount (or military) is applied. Most jobs, which include full prep, removal of the ugly casting flash as necessary to make it as close to perfect as I can, and powder coat it in your choice of color(s) run between $100 and $225. Shoot me some good close up pictures of yours with emphasis on the metal work needed (i.e., dings, dents, defects, missing metal, etc.) and I'll get you a quote.

Rob Cooke six pack, C10 Chevy truck 022.JPG


Rumblefish360's six pack ...

Rob Cooke six pack, C10 Chevy truck 013.JPG


Don't feel obligated to choose silver either. Check out this comparison -- before ...

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... and after ...

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Larry Kelso, Juan Luis Felipe, Eddie Rivera 025.JPG


A rare Chevy part from my bench lol ...

Roger Eberhardt SBC manifold after 017.JPG


Hemi Orange and Clear Vision ...
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Sea Water Teal (a match for Chrysler Engine Turquoise) and clear ...

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Thanks Leanna,I getting this 360 together to put in my 74 Dart which I am selling to finance my 66 dart and 63 dart....The 318 that coming out is going in the 66 Dart...long over due on sending you parts to get coated.The 318 will get detailed.
Also long time since we talked,how your winter work load
 
Here's some shots of an LD340 that Cudachick did in Alien Silver with turquoise accents...

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DSC03943 B.jpg
 
Thanks guys!!! I try to stay on par with the same kind of work you all put into the rest of your ride, and turn it into something we can BOTH be proud of.
 
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