Wheel alignment & racing

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IRISH RT

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Just Wondering How Important Is Wheel alignment , Caster , Camber etc Tire Size And Will It Effect Your ET , Just Ran 13s flat a few weeks ago just checking my car again for the next meet an found alot of toe in meaning front drivers wheel was not straight up and down , Where the passengers one looks fine , So Basically fighting each other Also Running Big Front Wheels 8 inch rims ,

How much Time Am I losing like This?????????????????
 
Once upon a time there was an article in the "How To" section. It seems that it is no longer there. I printed it out before I had the alignment done on my racecar but I have no idea where I put it. I'm sure someone will pop in with where the specifications are, or what they are. Good luck at the track.
 
Specs for drag racing are at the bottom. If you have a lot of toe it could be costing some time, and some tire life.

289d4j7.jpg
 
Leaning in or out is camber and probably has little if any effect on your time.
Always best to get it right though, so take a look at upper and lower bushings and ball joints while you are in there.
 
TrailBeast said:
Leaning in or out is camber and probably has little if any effect on your time.
Always best to get it right though, so take a look at upper and lower bushings and ball joints while you are in there.
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There Is Definetly something going or worn alot of play and hard to handle on the top end
 
This is covered in comprehensive depth in the Mopar Suspension manual. The key is to end up so that the toe changes as little as possible from launch to settling back down. The MP manual makes it very easy to understand how to do it with in depth diagrams and explanations. I have set several up using it and they worked great.
 
RustyRatRod said:
This is covered in comprehensive depth in the Mopar Suspension manual. The key is to end up so that the toe changes as little as possible from launch to settling back down. The MP manual makes it very easy to understand how to do it with in depth diagrams and explanations. I have set several up using it and they worked great.
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This, x10... The best part: The manual explains why. Better yet : education on the shelf as a reference, is priceless. Buy one...
 
Abodybomber said:
This, x10... The best part: The manual explains why. Better yet : education on the shelf as a reference, is priceless. Buy one...
Click to expand...

I always thought it was funny to see all these arguments over cam, compression, heads, this and that with the engine. Mopar KNEW the engine really didn't matter a whole lot. The CAR is what makes a fast race car. Pick an engine section and look at the level of detail there compared to the level of detail in the chassis manual. There's so much more detail in the chassis manual, it's mind blowing. I think that's why Mopar came out with the engine recipes. Could you improve on them? Well yeah. But why? Pick how fast you wanna go, pick out that engine recipe, build the car per the chassis manual and you're there. Kinda stupid simple.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I always thought it was funny to see all these arguments over cam, compression, heads, this and that with the engine. Mopar KNEW the engine really didn't matter a whole lot. The CAR is what makes a fast race car. Pick an engine section and look at the level of detail there compared to the level of detail in the chassis manual. There's so much more detail in the chassis manual, it's mind blowing. I think that's why Mopar came out with the engine recipes. Could you improve on them? Well yeah. But why? Pick how fast you wanna go, pick out that engine recipe, build the car per the chassis manual and you're there. Kinda stupid simple.
Click to expand...

It's there, in black & white. Some of the newer equipment has more potential, you learn as you go. Still makes for a damn nice basis.
 
Got Front End Checked out , Lower Control Arms Bushes Stuffed And Wheel Alignment Way Out Also Welded Bracing Plates to The Bottom Of The lower control Arms To stiffing them up and to stop them Flexing Thanx
 
If you get the MP suspension book, you will see you can go a LOT more towards speeding up than just a regular alignment.
 
On a drag car, zero camber at racing height (jacked up), toe in "0" if you can get it maybe 1/32, 1/16 at most. The above chart has a great explanation for a drag car.

Front end being out of spec for a drag car can scrub et/mph out of a car. It can be significant.
 
IRISH RT said:
Got Front End Checked out , Lower Control Arms Bushes Stuffed And Wheel Alignment Way Out Also Welded Bracing Plates to The Bottom Of The lower control Arms To stiffing them up and to stop them Flexing Thanx
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You are welcome.
I kinda figured that's what was going to be found.
Get it fixed and go by the chart posted above and you should be good to go.
I still wouldn't expect a big time difference though, but at least it will be right again.
(Poly bushings have a lot less give in them in case you are interested)
 
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