When a precision shop doesn't listen...

[Nitrous340Dart]

So I've really started to build steam on my 68 project. I scored a hell of a deal on a Dana 60 (free). A borrowed a rear end narrowing jig. Now I spent hours measuring/cutting/set-up/ and tacking the new ends on to make sure it was perfect.
I had two options for welding shops in the area. I chose RCR Fabrication cause I took a welding class back in college and the owner was the instructor. He's a real nice guy and knows a lot... But it seems there is a communication break between him and his employees.

I brought my rear end down to them and asked them to weld the ends on. I was hoping they could do it right then and there but they were busy. So I left it, the owner ask me what I wanted them to do... I said I needed the ends welded on cause I only have a 110v mig. He said the tacks would need to be ground off cause of it being a different metal than his welding wire and it would cause a crack or something. I said no problem, he said told me their shop rate was $85/hour. I figured maybe an hour to grind 4 tack per side and weld around a 3" tube. He asked me if I wanted to have it welded on the inside, I said no cause I remembered that the instruction that came with the Chris Alston narrowing jig didn't say anything about welding the ends on the inside.
I also didn't ask at ALL for them to grind the ends of the housing....

The other trouble is their hours from 7-3:30... so are mine, but I work an hour away and had to take time off to drop off the rear end.
So I called and paid for it over the phone. I was kind of miffed when they told me it took 2 hours and $170. I had a friend pick it up.

When I got home I found that the rear end had been grinded smooth and insides were tacked with the driver's ending up with some heavy slag!! I was pissed to see them spend so much time and MY MONEY on grinding away the weld. Now I have to spend my time/more time on grinding/ sanding away the slag, slag that would get in the way of the axle bearing cause its only 1/2 from the edge of the flange. I measured my old bearing and its 13/16" thick.

I'm so #*%$! pissed off:angry5: cause:

1.) They waisted time and my money.
2.) They didn't do exactly what I asked them too.
3.) They cause me more work.
4.) And they weakened the weld by grinding most of it away!!!!!!!!!!

Number 4 is whats going to haunt me when I'm driving it.

SO... I would like to know what you guys think I should do. Do you guys think the welds are going to be strong enough? I'm on the fence whether or not its strong enough. I'm going to ask for an hour/$85 back for all the grinding I didn't ask for.

I can't stand hacks..... especially expensive one!!!!

 

[Nitrous340Dart]

I forgot the damn pics!...

 

[res1vw21]

If it were me I would at least demand some if not all of my money back and then take it to the other shop to see what they think of the job and if it is strong enough. Keep in mind you did pay for it and pick it up so the could be jerks about it, but if they have any kind of customer service they will refund it or at least make it correct. A weld can be ground down and still be structurally strong, but i don't know on this one. If that still doesn't work at least show them the slag, that is a very poor job and if it were me I would be ashamed, I am by no means a professional welder but at least I know how to set the welder to get nice deep penetrating and clean welds. Good Luck
-Ross-

 

[fishy68]

I sure wouldn't be happy either. I hate moron's that can't keep simple instructions straight. I worked at a place like that for 11 yrs. Finally I got sick of the shop manager covering for his stupid drinkin buddies and let him have it but good. Got me fired but at least I felt good that I finally told him off.

Probably the reason it cost so much was the clown spent most of his time grinding and trying to make it look pretty.

I think like res1vw1 said you can grind most of the weld away and as long as you got good penetration it will be strong. But I'm sure it's not as strong as it would've been if all the weld was left on. I allways leave all the weld on unless it's in the way. Then I only take off enough to clear things.

Good luck getting some of your money back. Very few places will be agreeable about that.

 

[4mulaSvaliant]

Hey man, I feel for ya! I have been welding for 7/8 years now and that was just ground down to cover mistakes! You seem to know this anyhow but! With you saying there was enough slag that you had to remove it, then it sounds like they had too much heat. Its going to penetrate all the way through, but if you stager the welds correctly (which needed to happen since it wasnt done by a machine to keep heat even) then the weld wouldnt have "dropped" into the tube so badly. Beyond that, if this was the kind of workmanship put into this, have you thought to check how "true" or strait it is? I wouldnt be surprised for you to find that they are cocked at an angle. If they cut the tacks prior to making their own tacks and they had to reposition it, then god knows where it ended up. Or on that same note if they didnt watch the heat and weld at even intervals and back step the welds it can definately be off as well. that type of job really needs to be set up in a jig to hold every thing true. The heat will pull that flange around even if it is tacked. Especially if its not welded in the proper order.

If you say the owner is a good guy and knows what he is doing he will be able to look at what you have and be upset. I hope for your sake he either makes it right or refunds your $$$.

 

[Nitrous340Dart]

So I sent him a email last night with the pics, I asked that at least I get an hour ($85) refunded. I called him at lunch and he started off with an apology and said I would be refunded the $85. He talked with his employees and they had taken it upon themselves to grind it. He hadn't inspect it before he left that day.
So I feel better that I got some money back, but I still need to take the slag out and maybe finish welding the inside cause I think I'll have enough clearance for the bearing.

I'm one of those guys that feels like its not done right unless I do it my self, so it was hard enough for me to have it welded by someone else. So I dont think I want to have anyone else work on the rear end. Lesson learned.... I just got to buy every tool I need and do it my self!!


Thanks for the input

 

[drp2671]

I just got to buy every tool I need and do it my self!!

Thats what I do.....though I'm still waiting to win the lottery or for my wealthy relatives to keel over and bequeath me their fortune so I can buy that CNC machine!

 

[ramcharger]

Nitrous340dart,

I feel your pain. I found a great machinst here in Colorado only to have him tell me that he just got a million dollar contract with a Busch series racer that includes a new shop with 4 dynos but had to sign a "non-compete" clause. Crap.

The guy he recommend wasn't too bright and apparently can't read. Not only that he lost my service order twice. The search continues.

V. Gaines has a shop out here and he's my next best bet. BJR Racing on this forum will most likely get all of my head work.

 

[fishy68]

Glad to hear you got some resolve at least. I know exactly where your at too. I'm 40 miles from nowhere in the middle of corn and bean fields so finding a competent shop to do what I can't is always a challenge. I have bought many tools so I can do things myself. Still need allot yet to do everything, including a nice 40x60 (or larger) shop to put it all in.

BTW: 4mulasvailant had a good point about checking if it's still straight after what they did. If it's off even a little it'll eat bearings for lunch.

LOL

 

[Nitrous340Dart]

I forgot to say that I brought the dana down with the jig in it and I told them to weld it only with the jig in its place, wait for it to cool a bit and then switch sides. When I got the rear end back I checked to see if I could slide the jig in both side.

You could tell they moved the jig cause they didn't lube it and it got scratched..... I live in a city of liberal mentally challenged hippies.