When is it good to Sand/ Media blast your car?

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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I'm trying to figure if its worth it for me to think about spending 800-1200 dollars to strip my car completely and have it blasted and primered. That would mean all new window gaskets (Winshield being the hardest and most expensive to find) taking the K member and rear end out and that much more money out of my pocket. That would make it 800-1200 for the blast around 300 for both window gaskets not including the pass and drivers windows and tad more...What do you guys think? Up to which point in the car would you say...Im going to blast it...?
 
Depends how much rust you have. In my case,the rust is almost everywhere,having lived in a B.C climate most of it's life. With you being in Cali I dont know if you would have much rust if anything.

Another option is to not blast and simply use por15 over the rust.
 
It doesnt have any rust at all, just mild surface rust on floor pans and under the sail panels. If theres no rust, is it better just to metal wheel it all down?
 
Heck,if that's all there is just wire brush the loose stuff off,apply por15 and forget about it.

With my Dart,Im getting blasting in the spring and we will see what is left,lol..pretty bad but I can weld and hand form metal. My buddy Chris is blasting for media cost only,but even so media will still cost $300 -$600
 
would you do the enitre car with wire brush? Jw because I wanna take the under coating off as well
 
Nice thing about getting it all media blasted is the ability to see, and fix any hidden rust issues, and then sealing the whole thing with a good epoxy primer. A good foundation will help extend the life of the restoration.
 
ya, im just trying to see if its needed for me in my situation. Good foundation is always good and getting every last piece of surface rust and paint off the entire car and into primer is always good
 
Not sure what direction you want to go with yours but i just got off the phone with a local blasting company, to just have the engine compartment, trunk and undercarriage done was around $300 here. To me the danger of warping panels far outweighs the time and effort it takes to strip body panels down by hand. especially if yours is fairly rust free my vote would be to just strip it by hand. Of course thats just my two cents :)
 
Ya now im thinking if I get it blasted I would just have them do the shell meaning no: Fenders, hood, trunk, doors.. Just the shell compelely and seems like that would save me about 200-300
 
Fst73_360 said:
It doesnt have any rust at all, just mild surface rust on floor pans and under the sail panels. If theres no rust, is it better just to metal wheel it all down?
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What someone considers "rusty" is solely dependent on where they live. For example, to me (and many north and east of you), your car sounds "rust-free".

I am not sure why you need to wire wheel the whole bottom at this point?

I'd look into having the bottom hot pressured washed, then simply remove surface rust (patch if necc.), treat, epoxy primer, paint/undercoat.

Typically, our cars have seen some long salty, wet, snowy winters in their life, so we would want to blast or clean the underside to fix the usual bad metal, clean, derust and put a new coating on it based on what our intended use is. We generally don't drive our cars year round.


Grant
 
Well I just got a quote for 650 if I tow it up there they will dis-assemble it and do the shell but no primer, so it would need to be primered so I dont get more rust and this is for blasting the inside, engine area and underneath
 
Fst73_360 said:
would you do the enitre car with wire brush? Jw because I wanna take the under coating off as well
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if your working on the underside (floors and subframe) a wire wheel and some elbow grease will work, if you mean wire wheel painted surfaces.... NO!! don't do that, sand it down if theres more then one layer of paint, but don't sand it until you can primer it because you will create a whole 'nother battle with surface rust
 
OneOfMany said:
What someone considers "rusty" is solely dependent on where they live. For example, to me (and many north and east of you), your car sounds "rust-free".

I am not sure why you need to wire wheel the whole bottom at this point?

I'd look into having the bottom hot pressured washed, then simply remove surface rust (patch if necc.), treat, epoxy primer, paint/undercoat.

Typically, our cars have seen some long salty, wet, snowy winters in their life, so we would want to blast or clean the underside to fix the usual bad metal, clean, derust and put a new coating on it based on what our intended use is. We generally don't drive our cars year round.


Grant
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Soif I get this correctly, what your saying is, since my car has no 'rust' like most east coasters, that why would I bother spending the money to do it at this point if I dont "really need" it and can just por 15 over it and start getting back to work?
 
66plyValiant said:
if your working on the underside (floors and subframe) a wire wheel and some elbow grease will work, if you mean wire wheel painted surfaces.... NO!! don't do that, sand it down if theres more then one layer of paint, but don't sand it until you can primer it because you will create a whole 'nother battle with surface rust
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Ya im starting to think that wire wheeling the inside of the car and underside will be the cheapest and fastest solution since the car has no rust holes.
 
Can you post some pictures of what you're working on?
 
I would just wire wheel and por 15.

Think about this for a minuate, you are wanting to sandblast a rust free car.

Where is some of the sand going to end up, trapped in your 1/4 panels, rockers etc.

Most people who blast have to replace sections in the 1/4 panels, rockers etc, so these panels are removed and the excess sand will come out.

I think in your case you would actually be contributing to rust if you blasted in your case.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
That is a very bad way to strip a car.

Fst73_360...... Why do you think you need to strip your car all the way down? This shouldn't be needed unless the car has several past paint jobs.
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Looking through the restoration threads, I like how smooth and clean the car looks after its stripped and primered. But I guess I can get that same look with out the need for blasting it and save money on the winshield gaskets.
 
if you want the car completely redone and re-coated with something, you should take all the old off. now whether or not it is worth the money to you to have someone else do it, or take it off yourself, has to be your call. i would never send out my car to have someone else take it apart. i have always torn down my own cars for these reasons; i can bag and label every nut/bolt/fastener to each piece that it came from. i can take pictures of the disassembly and document the order in which each piece came off in. if a piece gets broken or bent or twisted, i can only blame myself. i will learn something new every time and i will be able to take my time and do it right. there are to many inexperienced body shops that dont have a clue how to take apart a mopar without jacking something up. if you have it blasted, you can pinpoint any damage or rust that may have to be replaced. if you do it by hand, it will be time consuming and tedious but hey, you would have the bragging rights to say you did it completely yourself. the last car i did, i disassembled it , sanded it down , took off the undercoating, did the bodywork, bedlined the interior and the bottom, painted the car, then re-assembled it. i probably saved 5000 bucks in labor and time alone.
 
and to add, if you just want fresh paint, take the motor out, gut the interior ,take everything off the body, sand it down , use a good primer/epoxy sealer and squirt it. then, as you put it back together, you can clean/detail/replace parts and pieces as you go. you would save a fortune doing yourself.
 
My car has no rust either except a bit of surface rust in the trunk and a just a tiny bit of surface rust on the standard area of the passenger floor pan inside the car. 15 Minutes with a wire wheel and some POR15 will take care of it. I would rather spend that extra $$ on the getting the body ready for paint. A good paint job is based on excellent body work and that is why all of us drool over a killer paint job. "The foundation was prepared correctly"
 
We just went through this. Rust (heavy stuff), cut out. Uther light rust, Harbor Freight discs. Then ospho. Then etching primer, and 2 stage primer, then build primer, then block sand. The painter loved it.
 
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