which 8 3/4 would be best to get cut to a body lengh

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this might be out of a B body but Im not sure. Anyway I can find out? I got it for free so I hate to not use it...lol
 
this might be out of a B body but Im not sure. Anyway I can find out? I got it for free so I hate to not use it...lol


Here are the measurements to use, measure your track which is outside to outside of the flange on the backing plate, the pearch mount a a give away too. Even if you get a close measurement it should tell you what rearend you have, hope this helps


Body line Track Perches Notes
------------- ---------- ----------- -----------------------
A-body, 65-72 55.6 43.0 4" lug bolt circle,
offered in heavy duty apps.
B-body, 62-70 59.2 44.0
B-body, 71-72 62.0 47.3
B-body, 71-72 63.4 47.3 station wagon
C-body, 64-72 63.4 47.3
D-body, 64-72 63.4 47.3
E-body, 70-74 60.7 46.0
 
Here are the measurements to use, measure your track which is outside to outside of the flange on the backing plate, the pearch mount a a give away too. Even if you get a close measurement it should tell you what rearend you have, hope this helps


Body line Track Perches Notes
------------- ---------- ----------- -----------------------
A-body, 65-72 55.6 43.0 4" lug bolt circle,
offered in heavy duty apps.
B-body, 62-70 59.2 44.0
B-body, 71-72 62.0 47.3
B-body, 71-72 63.4 47.3 station wagon
C-body, 64-72 63.4 47.3
D-body, 64-72 63.4 47.3
E-body, 70-74 60.7 46.0

Please toss that chart in the trash it has NOTHING to do with the length of the rear. The track is the center of the tire tread to center of tire tread. wheel offset will monkey with that number.

This is an EXCELLENT source of information for housing, axle and total widths on 8.75's
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html

If you want an A body length rear, it's 52 5/8" from flange to flange. If you are going BBP, longer standoff, take about .25" off each side or 52 1/8" to put it in the same place as the shorter sbp axle standoff.

Moser does a good job. Good chassis shops usually has the right tool to do the job.
 
I put an 8.25 with a 3.21 suregrip from a diplomat police car in my 72 Duster.
Moved perches in to match leafsprings and man, sweet, put new brake parts
on and new lub. Cost me $150.00 plus time to do the welding, brake job, lub
and install. WELL WORTH IT!

GOOD LUCK!
Yesteryearmotorcars
 
Please toss that chart in the trash it has NOTHING to do with the length of the rear. The track is the center of the tire tread to center of tire tread. wheel offset will monkey with that number.

This is an EXCELLENT source of information for housing, axle and total widths on 8.75's
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html

If you want an A body length rear, it's 52 5/8" from flange to flange. If you are going BBP, longer standoff, take about .25" off each side or 52 1/8" to put it in the same place as the shorter sbp axle standoff.

Moser does a good job. Good chassis shops usually has the right tool to do the job.



My bad cracked, I put the wrong chart up, I have a couple of them saved, I was just trying to get him a quick reference to figure out what rearend he had.
 
My bad cracked, I put the wrong chart up, I have a couple of them saved, I was just trying to get him a quick reference to figure out what rearend he had.

Cool

If the other chart you have says an A rear is 51.400, and 62-70 B's are all the same, trash that one too...

Stick with that link I posted. Best info there is.
 
I appreciate the help guys.....ill measure it tonight and let you know what I come up with.
 
I think I got off lucky. It looks like mine is about 54.5-55" flange to flange, which if I read correctly would make it a B body.

With a B body axle are my wheels going to hit the fender or will they be fine just moving the perches and mounting it up?
 
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