Which is stronger

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I prefer a Dana or Ford 9" for a drag car and I've never broke either one in 9 second 1/4 mile cars but you can make an 8.75 live with the right parts. If you back-brace it and install Mark Williams caps along with a spool, I've seen this setup run 8.80's in a small block Demon on spray.
Also, there are gear ratios for 8.75 rearends that tend to break easier than other ratios but I forget which ones. I believe it was MobarBilly on moparts that explained it to me in the past, he runs 8's and 9's with an 8.75.
 
Dana 60 will be marginally heavier, but all these claims of them being less efficient or using more power are false. Only drawback is the weight difference... After you backbrace an 8 3/4 to make it comparable strength wise the weight difference is less than 75 lbs. If you are building one go with the Dana
 
I did not realize that the 80's police cars were equipped with a 9 1/4. You can get parts for a 9 1/4 . They were used alot in 4 WD applications. Narrowing one though might be a bit harder. I guess you could put ford ends on the tubes and get rid of the C clip and have some axles made. All of the Hotchkiss type of rears are heavy [except the 7 1,4] The saving grace of the 8 3/4 is that it is light. More gear options for a 8 3/4 too. I like the 8 3/4 because it can be used like a poor man's quick change. Just pop the axles. It would be hard to kill a properly set up 8 3/4 in an A body. {obviously, it has been done though].
 
ProSport said:
I prefer a Dana or Ford 9" for a drag car and I've never broke either one in 9 second 1/4 mile cars but you can make an 8.75 live with the right parts. If you back-brace it and install Mark Williams caps along with a spool, I've seen this setup run 8.80's in a small block Demon on spray.
Also, there are gear ratios for 8.75 rearends that tend to break easier than other ratios but I forget which ones. I believe it was MobarBilly on moparts that explained it to me in the past, he runs 8's and 9's with an 8.75.
Click to expand...

Yep, been running a 742 case w/stock caps, 30 spline axles but back braced for 12+ years and 5+ of those in the 9`s at 3200+ lbs w/1.36 60`s at 6.20`s in the 1/8th. I just got the nodular 3rd member from Cass at Dr Diff w/Richmond gears, big steel caps and 35 spline axles so this should go 12+ more years..............:cheers:
 
That's an easy choice for me. 8.75. Why? because it takes about 90 minutes to swap out the chunk if you want to try a different ratio, and you can sell whatever chunks you have grown out of.
It will take you longer to change the C&P in your 9.25;and just try and sell your used C&P set.

Oh shoot, I'm in the racer's forum again. Sorry. Just ignore me.
 
I just destroyed an 8.8 but it was not the fault of the rear. frickin traction bars tore off the housing letting the pinion go up, sheared the pinion, and broke the snout.

no gear failure tho and that was with 33/14.50/15 Bias slicks...
 
Realy? What makes you say that?
It was purchased as an 8.8 but not knowing rear ends from a hole in the ground I could have been misled?

I been putting off removing but when I do Ill pull the pumpkin and measure the ring.

If its not an 8.8 i guess I should rethink trying to fix it. I was thinking I would cut the tubes down and use it for my narrowed dart rearend.

Thanks for all your time and advice.
 
the ford 8.8 has a cover on the back, not a drop out pumpkin, used in newer stuff. the drop out pumpkin fords are 9.0 and 8.0, older
 
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