Which Primer? Or What Next?

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augiepaw

augiepaw

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I'm to the point where I need to get primer on my car. I have the quarters on and most of the body filler done. I need to get it in primer. But what primer? A friend was saying I need ecthing primer. I have body filler covering the whole roof, both sides of the quarters, under the doors and alot of the engine bay. I have read that self ecthing primer is a waste of time and money. Should I go straight to epoxy primer or some thing else? I want to do this right and only once. I know some of you have more knowledge than me. What is your input?
 
I agree with n.e.mopar. Etching primer is used over metal.
C
 
1.Etch primer is used for area's that have an adhesion problem or risk. It is acid that etches or eats its way into metal. You apply a very thin coat of it on bare metal area's. A common misconception is that it is good for corrosion resistance. Not true. It provides adhesion and that is it.
2. The first thing someone suggests is epoxy. Epoxy is great for corrosion resistance and has great adhesion qualities. The biggest drawback of epoxy is it sands like crap, and personally it is NOT meant to even be sanded and is non sanding!!. The mention of DP40 is a great product, but it DOES NOT sand well, to be quite honest it sands like GARBAGE, as do all epoxy primers. And personally I do not even believe Dp primers are available anymore in the US for around 7 years. You can use the DPLF line that is basically the same minus the lead content hence the LF. They are NOT meant to be sanded period. They ball up, gum up, and sand like rubber.
3. My suggestion for a primer is two options. Use epoxy over your bare metal and filler work, but then follow directly with a SANDABLE primer surfacer. And at that point it is ok to get a surfacer that does not have corrosion resistance since you are using the epoxy under. Second option would be to just use a direct to metal primer surfacer. One great product from ppg is NCP270. Has wonderful fill properties, sands nice, and is very good for corrosion resistance.
 
I knew you guys would come through, about everything a person would need to know about primers Here what it looks like this morning. Badawg thanks for the past thread it was great!
 

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67Dart440GT said:
1.Etch primer is used for area's that have an adhesion problem or risk. It is acid that etches or eats its way into metal. You apply a very thin coat of it on bare metal area's. A common misconception is that it is good for corrosion resistance. Not true. It provides adhesion and that is it.
2. The first thing someone suggests is epoxy. Epoxy is great for corrosion resistance and has great adhesion qualities. The biggest drawback of epoxy is it sands like crap, and personally it is NOT meant to even be sanded and is non sanding!!. The mention of DP40 is a great product, but it DOES NOT sand well, to be quite honest it sands like GARBAGE, as do all epoxy primers. And personally I do not even believe Dp primers are available anymore in the US for around 7 years. You can use the DPLF line that is basically the same minus the lead content hence the LF. They are NOT meant to be sanded period. They ball up, gum up, and sand like rubber.
3. My suggestion for a primer is two options. Use epoxy over your bare metal and filler work, but then follow directly with a SANDABLE primer surfacer. And at that point it is ok to get a surfacer that does not have corrosion resistance since you are using the epoxy under. Second option would be to just use a direct to metal primer surfacer. One great product from ppg is NCP270. Has wonderful fill properties, sands nice, and is very good for corrosion resistance.
Click to expand...


I AGREE!!

Use the 270 first! This will allow you to fill small imperfections. 2 good coats and let it dry. If you have deep sand scratches block with 220 dry then apply 2 more coats and block with 600-800 wet. THEN you can apply the Epoxy sealer. I use DP90LF(pricey stuff), this also can be used as a primer depending on how it is mixed but I wouldn't suggest it. Mix as the sealer direction on the can and spray away. Caution!! It does have a window to topcoat. 20 days to topcoat!! This stuff will harden and you can't chip it with a hammer!!! Good thing is after a couple of days just scuff it with a fine scotch bright and apply your color!
 
CUUDAK said:
I AGREE!!

Use the 270 first! This will allow you to fill small imperfections. 2 good coats and let it dry. If you have deep sand scratches block with 220 dry then apply 2 more coats and block with 600-800 wet. THEN you can apply the Epoxy sealer. I use DP90LF(pricey stuff), this also can be used as a primer depending on how it is mixed but I wouldn't suggest it. Mix as the sealer direction on the can and spray away. Caution!! It does have a window to topcoat. 20 days to topcoat!! This stuff will harden and you can't chip it with a hammer!!! Good thing is after a couple of days just scuff it with a fine scotch bright and apply your color!
Click to expand...

I also agree. 270 is great primer. It doesn't call for reduction but if you want a good idea is to reduce the first coat. This will allow it to soak into the filler and sand scratches. I usually pound on two more coats after that. It actually builds very well. I have always used DPLF for sealer and it works great. For a resto I have always primed over 80-180, then block/board sand with 180, then re prime and board/block with 400ish.
 
P.S. sand off that black primer and get it down to bare steel, that primer they send on new parts is crap.
 
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