Which water control valve?

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sargentrs

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'74 Dart, 225 /6, Factory heat/AC. This confuses me for some reason. Which one do I need to order? http://www.bpeusa.com/BPEheaterValve.asp


This Lever Is Naturally CLOSED,When Vacuum Is Applied The Valve Is OPEN
Allowing Heat To Enter The Vehicle.
B68V
Vacuum Controlled Heater Valve
or

SAME AS ABOVE BUT REVERSE ON / OFF ACTION
This Lever Is Naturally OPEN ,When Vacuum Is Applied The Valve Is CLOSED
Allowing Heat To Enter The Vehicle.

B69V (REVERSED)

Vacuum Controlled Heater Valve

Thanks!
 
Make sure the heat is turned off. Start the car. Go under the hood and pull the vacuum line off the heat control valve. If it sucks you need the second valve...
 
According to ma Mopar's Factory service Manual, the water valve stays open until vacuum is applied to it.

Something is wrong with the description of those two valves. You can't have a valve open and a valve closed and both allow heat to enter vehicle.

That said, you want a valve that is naturally open.
 
Yeah, I know which one I need, I just couldn't figure out which one of these is it. I need "vacuum on = closed". Went to O'reillys website and looked under an '87 D100 with a 225. Looks like it'll work. It clearly says "vacuum closes". $9.95. I was just wondering if that confused anybody else.#-o. Thanks guys!
 
Heres the thing

"Once upon a time," you could go to the local NAPA or "real" independent parts store and they had these handy things called "catalogs." You could look stuff up by year make and model, and when you got a part number or even an OEM number, you could go to the numerical interchange and or pictorial guide and you could look that up and cross check

NOW when you go "online" to someplace like "O'Really" what you are in reality getting is something akin to a Google search. In other words their so called lookup pages are flawed from the beginning.

EG............you can look up something "simple" like a temp gauge sender, and you'll end up with among other things, a "universal" one that has about 1 inch pipe thread. There is no way in hell it will ever fit any Mopar ever made.

One day I went in for yer average intake manifold set for a Chev 350. He starts asking me all kinds of questions, and I finally told him "I've no idea what you are referring to."

"Port size."

"How am I supposed to know, as a mechanic, as I'm looking at an average, stock, factory, OEM Chev 350, WTF port sizes it's got?"

TURNS OUT he was using what amounts to the same "online" page we do over the www. It was giving him "top hits" on aftermarket "Mr Gasket" and other "hot rod" sets meant for ported heads.

I told him "Can't you look this up in Fel Pro or Victor?"

"Doh."

So I get the set and it says on there something like this:

"Felpro MS-XXXXXX fits Chevrolet 68-90??? 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, etc etc etc "what did I leave out?"

Modern auto parts are paramount to bullshit. I wish I'd saved some of my old catalogs

Ever heard of "Everhot?"
 
I hear ya on that, 67Dart273! Most counter people at the local parts stores don't know jack that their "catalog" doesn't tell them and that's misleading. There's one guy in each of my local stores that I'll deal with. If he's not there, then I know I'm going to hold their hand to get what I want. At O'Reillys, it's James, at Advance, it's Mike, etc. At Autozone, Wayne is building a '71 'cuda and knows his stuff about Dodge. Anybody else is an idiot. Unfortunately, my local NAPA keeps banker's hours and doesn't open on weekends so I don't get much from there. Usually, I try to research what I need, mostly through forums and what manuals I can find online, and then give them a part number to crossreference or go ahead and look it up and tell them there part number. If it's not in stock, Advance insists that you pay at order while my O'Reillys will order it and you pay when you pick it up. If it ain't right, no big deal, they just put it on their shelf. At Advance you have to go the trouble of returning it, getting your money back, and then reordering and paying again.
 
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