Who is BS'ing who?

-
Status
Not open for further replies.
...new old car truck bike train plane boat bus skateboard bicycle it doesn't matter the laws of physics apply to everything equally and at all time's everywhere for everyone no exceptions EVER! it is a simple fact and it can not be disputed period
if you have a problem with this remember Issac Newton and Albert Einstein were WAY smarter than you will ever be

Now you're getting scientific and ****...:thumleft: (I'm with ya dude).

Why deal with facts when it's much easier to argue on emotion based decisions.
 

I did, i mention timing/curve/carb tune to the almost lean side, and rpm range of the cam which can have major effect despite what any blowhard loudmouth on here says.

run under cam and watch ur milage hit the shttr.

Try running at 20 mph in 4th ger all day and tell me how great it is...lol
 
360 w/350hp/400 tq. xe268h cam, ld340, 750dp, 904/2500stall hughes converter, 3.00ish gears, 245/*60/14 (short tire).

Drove it to Spring Fling running around 60-65mph. Filled tank to the top before leaving, 175 miles round trip. Got home, filled tank to top, took 8.8 gallons. You do the math...

If you tune the carb properly, not the ultra rich set up they usually have on cruise, you can get some significant gains in fuel economy.
 
I did, i mention timing/curve/carb tune to the almost lean side, and rpm range of the cam which can have major effect despite what any blowhard loudmouth on here says.

run under cam and watch ur milage hit the shttr.

Try running at 20 mph in 4th ger all day and tell me how great it is...lol


getting BAD mileage is easy! :burnout:
it's getting good mileage that takes some effort ](*,):violent1::coffee2:
 
This thread is just a curly one away from getting personal gentleman, continue on but be careful, step back from the brink.:hello2:
 
And as 805moparkid said:
"the motor needs to run in its rpm range first... so with a big cam hyw gears are gonna kill you... you need to be cruzing at 3 grand or so going down the road...
ive heard different theories as to is you shoulds run when the cam "cleans out" or peak tq...
i think its somewhere in the middle lol"

At 80mph im at a 2,900-3,000rpm crusing speed and Its also where I get the most tq from my engine. The gas pedal isnt pushed down much at all to sustain that speed with 2.76 gears. There is a lot more to gas mileage than just how fast you are going.

K so your in the correct rpm range at 80 mph. Our A bodies are like barn doors aerodynamically.
 
K so your in the correct rpm range at 80 mph. Our A bodies are like barn doors aerodynamically.

Ill just say my car gets 15mpg at 80mph. I just know I don't get 17 or more mpg going 60. Perhaps its the way my carburetor is tuned? Or it being out of tune? I know I have a vaccume leak under the hood somewhere because I can hear it, but it doesnt effect the way the car drives so I dont bother with it. Maybe that is it? But im not going to bring up silly things like perpetual motion as Caferacerx did. If you'd like pictures of the fuel guage before and after one driving 80mph and one driving 60mph after each trip, ill be happy to do it.
 
Hey good for ya,getting 15 mpg at 60 is pretty damn good for a high performance carbed engine.
 
Ill just say my car gets 15mpg at 80mph. I just know I don't get 17 or more mpg going 60. Perhaps its the way my carburetor is tuned? Or it being out of tune? I know I have a vaccume leak under the hood somewhere because I can hear it, but it doesnt effect the way the car drives so I dont bother with it. Maybe that is it? But im not going to bring up silly things like perpetual motion as Caferacerx did. If you'd like pictures of the fuel guage before and after one driving 80mph and one driving 60mph after each trip, ill be happy to do it.

at least you are not claiming you get better mileage at 80 than at 60
the difference in MPG between 60 and 80in an average car is about 30%
so if you get 20 MPG at 60 MPH you will get around 14 MPG at 80 MPH
you are probably getting a little better at 60 and a little worse at 80 but you are close in your estimate
 
im extremely happy with the 8 mpg my charger is getting 360/727/holley 650 lol and as far as the duster 225/3 speed/1 barrel ,im happy with the 15 mpg that is getting lol and i if i was at all concerned about fuel mileage i sure wouldnt be driving anything OLD . even my fuel injected jeep cherokee is getting 15-18 mpg .if fuel consumption is really even an issue , the local haundai or honda dealer is only a phone call or click away . and if really that bad , mongoose makes a nice mountain bike .......IMO
 

Attachments

  • a345.jpg
    123.5 KB · Views: 257
if gas was a buck a gallon i would care less what the mpg are but when $40 goes for fuel in a weekend and you still don't drive it as much as you like to, its sad.

if i drove my 11 mpg car everywhere my fuel cost would be 2--3 times as much. Gas was $1.50 or so for so long and wages seemed higher back then
 
My Valiant ('65, stock 225, t-flite) can get over 24 MPG, no BS.

Notice I said "can get". No way does it get that kind of mileage puttering around in traffic. I checked it on a trip where I mostly cruised at about 55mph on mostly flat terrain. I used yhe round trip figure to take wind direction and overall uphill/downhill out of the picture.

That's about the ideal driving conditions for MPG, which is what I use for comparison. If I just figured the mileage for any given tankful, it might be 20 or it might be 10; just because driving conditions vary so much.

My mother bought a 2000 Buick Century new. Not long after, she thought she'd see what kind of mileage it got. She was quite surprised and disgussted to come up with something like 14 MPG! "OK", I said, "but how much stop and go traffic, idling, sitting in Mickey D's drive-thru, etc. didja do that week?" She checked it again on a highway trip and came up with almost 29 MPG!

Use the "ideal" figure to comepare one car to another, but don't expect to get that all the time.;)
 
Sixty five posts in this thread and we've heard about 318s, 340s, 360s, slantys, motorcycles, GMs and Lexus'. We've had all the experts chime in on how to get better gas mileage out of your ***. No one has chimed in on how they are getting such great gas mileage out of their strokers.

The original poster is calling out a couple of specific members who made pretty incredible claims on another thread. Now they are silent...

Thank you Brian you got the point perfectly. :prayer:

cuda67, I'll help you cut through the BS and get to the "factual" information. Here goes…


Agree. I did not build my 408 for mpg. But I did build it to be street driven, and driven distances (measured in hundreds of mile). The "rules" I set for my build were: great torque (torque is king on the street), good horsepower, and it had to look old school. For me old school meant that I was going to use an LD-340 (dual plane), mechanical fuel pump, stock appearing ignition (used FBO system) and my 1991 360 with 308 heads.


Okay cool, you like factual information, me too. So why don’t we turn your rant into some facts so others who are looking to build their motor have a basis in fact.


My proposal; I’ll outline my engine build and drivetrain specs, and you post your info right next to mine for comparison. Then we can let folks analyze the factual differences between our builds. I believe we both built fast street cars so this should be a good comparison.

For everyone else; If you compare your build to mine remember I did not build this car to be a “race only” car or motor. Yes, I know I could have gotten more horsepower/torque if I had only (you fill in blank). So go back and read my rules for my build. Let’s keep it in line with cuda67’s original premise that decent performance and livable mpg cannot co-exist.

Are you game? Here goes:

Car:
1972 Demon
4-speed (close ratio gear set)
Rear: 8.75 with 3:55 Sure Grip
Rear Tire: Nitto Drag Radial 275/50-15 (25.75 dia.)
Exhaust: TTI step header and full 2.5" with X-pipe
Speedo pinion: 35
Speedo calibrated by Redline Gauge Works
Highway mpg 15.46
This was a 500 mile trip averaging 60 MPH with normal driving (no drag racing). I stopped every 150-170 miles to top off the tank (because at that point I was down to 1/4 tank) and to give my tailbone a rest. The route was from the east coast of Virginia to Roanoke using two and four lane roads (Rte 5, Rte 106, and Rte 460).

Camshaft - Hydraulic Roller (Cam Motion)
Duration Intake @50 242
Duration Exhaust @50 248
Lift Intake: 570
Lift Exhaust: 562
Lobe Separation: 110
Centerline (Installed): 105.5
Valve Springs (Comp Cams: 994-16)
Rockers: Comp Cams Pro Magnum Roller Rocker Arms, 1.5 ratio
Roller Lifters, 1991 LA 360 Stock

Crankshaft, Cast (Eagle) Internally Balanced, Stroke 4.000”
Pistons (Wiseco, Pro Tru Forged) PN: WISPT036H3
Bore: 4.030
Dish: 20cc
Compression Height: 1.460
Compression Ratio (Based on head gasket that is .039 thick with a 4.180 bore and a piston deck height of .0040)
Static Compression Ratio: 9.84:1
Dynamic Compression Ratio: 8.85:1
Dynamic Cranking Pressure: 179.26 PSI

Heads casting #4448308
Combustion Chamber Volume: 65cc
2.02" Intake (CFM)
1.60" Exhaust (CFM)
Flow: (Intake/Exhaust)
0.100 Lift 64 50 78.12
0.200 Lift 132 98 74.24
0.300 Lift 184 136 73.91
0.400 Lift 226 175 77.43
0.500 Lift 254 189 74.41
0.600 Lift 247 196 79.35

Carburetor (Pro Systems Pro Series - XE)
Holley 4150 HP Main Body
Jets: 75/85
Power Valve: 6.5/plug
Accelerator Pump: 50 cc/30 cc
Vacuum @ 1000 RPM: 11"

Distributor: FBO Mopar Electronic Ignition A688
Initial Timing: 18 Degrees
Total Mechanical @ 3200 RPM 16 Degrees
Vacuum Advance (@ 10 inches) 12 Degrees
Timing set @: 34 Degrees

Engine Dyno results: (with el-cheapo 1-5/8 headers because TTIs wouldn’t fit on dyno)
Peak Torque @ 4100 RPM: 460
Peak horsepower @ 5800 RPM: 443

Here is my info. may not have all you need but I will give you what I have.

Car: 1967 Barracuda vert.

904 tranny with a shift kit and 3000 stall converter
8.75 rear 3:23 sure grip
rear tires Nexen radials 275/40ZR x 17 (don't have height}
Stock manifolds with Flowmaster exhausr 2inch
Speedo gear 36 teeth (not calibrated but checked accurate with gps.
Holley 4150 Street Avenger 770, primarie jets 72, secondary jets 75
6.5 power valve
11 inches of vacuum
*P5153475 360 Magnum Crate Engine — 390 Horsepower, 420 ft.-lbs. Torque Magnum Block Thermocycled .020" Overbore
Specifications:
• Thermocycled Block Is Bored to +0.020" Oversize
• New Magnum R/T Big Valve Cylinder Heads
• Mopar Cast Aluminum Valve Covers
• High-Strength Stainless Steel Valves — 2.02" Intake, 1.62" Exhaust
• Heavy-Duty Valve Springs
• Hydraulic Roller Camshaft — 288°/292° Advertised Duration
(230°/234° Duration @ .050") 0.501"/0.513" Lift
• Pistons — 9.0:1 C.R.
• Single Plane, M1® 4-bbl Aluminum Intake Manifold (Includes Bosses for MPI
Conversion; Taller than Stock — Check Hood Clearance)
• Double Roller Timing Chain and Sprockets
• Center Sump Oil Pan Similar to Commando Engine (Fits Passenger Cars;
Pan Swap Required for Truck Use)
• Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition Kit with Distributor


Hwy miles 9
 
what timing are you running?
vac advance?

what shooters?

11 initial not sure of total, I don't really understand that process nor how to acheive it. I believe that at 2000 rpm it was around 52*???? I am aware that it should be somewhere around 30-34, at least that is what I have read here. I am going to change to 68 or 70 jets this week. It is running on the rich side. The shooters are 0.025 (pump discharge nozzle) Vacuum advance. Listen, I don't want to offend anyone but as I have stated in the past, I can pull engines, install engines do brake conversions and a few other things but I lack the knowledge to fine tune. I have tried to get help and have had limited success. I am getting to the point where maybe I need to go to somebody who knows what they are doing and quit my guessing and hitting and missing.
 
11 initial not sure of total, I don't really understand that process nor how to acheive it. I believe that at 2000 rpm it was around 52*???? I am aware that it should be somewhere around 30-34, at least that is what I have read here. I am going to change to 68 or 70 jets this week. It is running on the rich side. The shooters are 0.025 (pump discharge nozzle) Vacuum advance. Listen, I don't want to offend anyone but as I have stated in the past, I can pull engines, install engines do brake conversions and a few other things but I lack the knowledge to fine tune. I have tried to get help and have had limited success. I am getting to the point where maybe I need to go to somebody who knows what they are doing and quit my guessing and hitting and missing.

and you badger people who get better milage than you LOL...

but besides that the 9:1 comp is hurting you with the duration of 230 @ .050... yes it will work but it would be happier with 9.5 or more...

also loose the 3.23 gears... i bet you would pick up a couple mpg and ET just from those to a 3.73 or 3.91's...
 
stock jetting is basd on sea level, so if you're higher than sea level...jet down, google a jet program...or it's 1 jet per 2000ft so holley says...but it could actually be 1 per 1000ft.

you could run more initial timing imo
U should raise the initial up, it bring low speed snappyness and better milage, see if you can raise it to 24* while warm and start it, if so....cool, limit the mech advance to say 8*...so 24*+8*=32* + vac adv=52*

around 30-34* total w/o vac advance is good with a closed chamber...but raise it higher if it likes it..
the vac adv sounds good where it's at.
 
Now you're getting scientific and ****...:thumleft: (I'm with ya dude).

Why deal with facts when it's much easier to argue on emotion based decisions.
My statement about my bike was not based on emotions, just 100,000 miles of facts, or should I say riding it. Not trying to argue with any Einstein that is present. No point in saying anything more for me, the only way to prove my statement would be for the doubters to ride the bike and verify what I have said....and the bike is long gone...
 
Interesting thread. As for me, whether it's my '68 383/727/3.91 Road Runner, or my '75 225/904/2.76 Scamp, I couldn't care less what kind of gas mileage they get. They are not my daily transportation. If they are running well, all is good. I drive them for FUN! Just my 2 cents.
 
and you badger people who get better milage than you LOL...

I am not badgering anybody kid, I haven't a need too. I am, was, trying to find out what the folks who claim better mpg are doing to achieve these averages. I would like to stretch my driving range that's all. Sixteen gallons of gas won't get me to Daytona at 8 mpg. I plan on changing to 3:55 gears but I don't think that will help my mileage just might help my hole shot. Changing to a lower gear will probably reduce gas mileage, imo. But thanks for your tech. advise.
 
If these muscle cars got that good of gas milage, why did people start buy Hondas? LOL
Just think if you guys were around with this knowlage in the late 60's and early 70's they might not of stopped making them, just think, someone could of got 30 MPG out of a 426 hemi!! LOL
 
If these muscle cars got that good of gas milage, why did people start buy Hondas? LOL
Just think if you guys were around with this knowlage in the late 60's and early 70's they might not of stopped making them, just think, someone could of got 30 MPG out of a 426 hemi!! LOL
Was not 30 out of a 426 but 14 out of a 725 hp 572" HEMI........
 
My statement about my bike was not based on emotions, just 100,000 miles of facts, or should I say riding it. Not trying to argue with any Einstein that is present. No point in saying anything more for me, the only way to prove my statement would be for the doubters to ride the bike and verify what I have said....and the bike is long gone...

OK lets try this again
it doesn't matter if the bike is long gone or out front with a full tank I don't NEED to ride it (although it would be fun) to disprove something that is a factual impossibility
to increase speed you open up the throttle
when you open the throttle, you "give it more gas"
when you give it more gas you USE more gas simple as that,
if it could go faster using LESS fuel you would have to close the throttle to speed up
so you are telling me when you give it less gas it goes faster?
now do you see how utterly ridiculous that sounds?
in order to increase speed you need to increase power
in order to increase power you need to increase the amount of fuel you give it,
and when you increase the amount of fuel you give something it uses more fuel not less
what is actually happening is your bike was geared at a much higher range than the average car, I am guessing around 20 MPH more combined with the much lower wind drag of a motorcycle, the amount of fuel it used to go 75 MPH was only slightly more than the amount of fuel it used to go 55 MPH giving the illusion of better MPG, in fact the difference in fuel economy was minimal, but in order to maintain 75 you need to crack the throttle open a bit more than you need to maintain 55 correct? :coffee2:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
-
Back
Top